The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors glove box lock cylinder removal

Does anyone have any idea what the secret is to removing the glove box lock cylinder from a 1939 Chevrolet pickup? I am able to pick it open and shut, and have the attachment nut on the back loosened, but I can't find the secret for removing the locking bar on the rear of the cylinder assembly. It has to be out of the way to remove the latch from the door.

Thanks,
Gary

I'm wondering if a 39 is like a 37 and 38. If so, I can tell you how to do it. Let me know if they are the same.

Joe,

I don't know if they are the same. I think the cylinders may be different, but I don't know about the manner in which they are mounted.

The actual lock mechanism on mine is a small bar that rides vertically on the very back of the cylinder housing. That bar is moved up to lock, and down to unlock. The cylinder housing is held in place by a large threaded nut that encompasses the entire cylinder carrier block or housing, and tightens forward against the inside of the door.

I have the nut loose, but it can't be removed until the vertical locking bar is removed, and therein lies the problem.

I don't know if there is a "trick" to remove the bar, or if there is a "trick" to remove the cylinder out to the front, and that frees the bar. I suspect the latter.

All of the tumblers function, and the lock can be picked both open and shut.

Beyond that, I am at a loss.

Thanks,

Gary

If I remember corectly you have to use the key. You turn it counterclockwise and it hits a point where you can pull the cylinder out of the front. I will check this on mine tommorow if I can rember where I put my keys.

I definitely does not come apart from the back

Thirtyniner

Thirtyniner,

I appreciate this. If you do find the keys, I need to know pretty much the exact sequence; counter clockwise from the open position, or the closed position, and more or less how far beyond a given position.

Also, is there some hidden spring loaded trip that needs to be actuated?

I don't have a key, so the picking process is rather frustrating.

I just spent another hour of so messing with it, but no luck. I don't think my picking process has improved, either. There may be junk in the lock that makes that a bit problematic, too.

I was able to loosen the jam nut on the back, and that did expose a spot on the threaded portion that is open to the lock cylinder. I suspect that has something to do with it...maybe the waffers have to be aligned with that spot. I will again try to pick beyond either open or closed to get to it.

Thanks,

Gary

PS: I did email Belsaw, the company that has a locksmithing course...that I completed in about '72 (all I ever got from the GI bill). A tech called this AM, but only to tell me they have nothing that goes back that far.

Thiryniner,

I've got it!! I spent about 5 hours on it, today, and some time yesterday, but I am looking at the lock with removed tumbler next to my computer.

You were right that it has to be turned counter-clockwise. It goes about 1/8 of a turn beyond open while, at the same time, pulling back on the bottom of the latching bar that sits on the rear of the assembly. Then everything just comes apart.

I think I probably had some gunk in the mechanism, and that was interfering with the picking process.

In any event, I hope that I have not caused you too much extra effort, but certainly to appreciate whatever you did...and you did give me a good portion of the clue to the puzzle.

Now, I have to see if I can cut the key...???

Many thanks,

Gary

Gary,

Glad you got it figured out. It was good for me to refresh my memory on how it comes apart. I also had to find my keys for that lock and the door lock. I found them and now I put them with the Ignition key, so no more searching for them.

Thirtyniner

Thirtyniner,

I was hoping I could get you stopped before doing the whole process, but I guess some good came of it on your end, too. I will make a key for it tomorrow. As I have a locking gas cap with the same key way, I may cheat, and shave the pins to work with the gas cap key.

It was an interesting challenge, and it makes painting the door a bit easier with all the stuff removed. I just finished patching up the dash, so may get to the painting soon...except for the recent dip in temps. That doesn't help.

Again, many thanks for your efforts.

Gary

Meanwhile, 11 years later.... I had a tough time getting my lock apart because many say to turn the key clockwise. Other forums say that, Jim Carter has an article that says clockwise. I had success doing it the way ggfossen writes, " it has to be turned counter-clockwise. It goes about 1/8 of a turn beyond open while, at the same time, pulling back on the bottom of the latching bar that sits on the rear of the assembly. Then everything just comes apart."

I forgot completely about this thread. The picture of the completed project was taken in 2016. I hope I have it properly attached. I bought the truck out of a cow pasture in 1961 when in High School. I've had it from the Pacific to the Atlantic and back, and in both Canada and Mexico, all under it's own power.

That's a cool truck.

Thanks, Otto. It was beat badly when I bought it in '61, and nothing changed until I decided to do a frame-up a few years ago. I see you have a '66 Toronado on your list. I have a '67 Riviera in the shop (family car from new), but might be getting to old to finish the project. I will keep it in the family, but need to find someone to pick up the project. You have an interesting list.

'67 Riv is a favorite of mine, too. I'm not a one make or one model enthusiast. I love pretty much all old cars up to about 1972 (1979 for trucks) and don't own any modern vehicles. The '95 F-150 is actually my mom's.

I've been using the AD pickup as my primary vehicle lately putting 100+ miles a week on it.