The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Preparing your truck for winter

We initially posted this thread to ask if we needed to update the tech tip on storing your truck for winter. It was written in 2005.

There is some good response here and the Tech Tip is now updated. But read on for the comments.




Tanks,
Peg

Put it away, there is nothing more romantic than taking the old girl out at Christmas and bring home that tree! Put a wreath on the grille and away we go!! Did I say Christmas? What happened to Memorial Day ? darn another year going by. Oh well!

Moth balls.
I like to throw a few moth balls in the cab, in the engine compartment and a few on the ground.
keeps the critters away and will air out in about a day.
Stabilizer in a full fuel tank and run the carb dry of fuel, is a really good suggestion.
Change oil and filter in the spring before startup.
Trickle charger on the battery with a cable unhooked.

These are just a few off the top of my head right now.

Don

Don,

Good suggestion - moth balls

If you are going to change the oil, change it before hibernation and run the engine to get the clean oil on all bearing/wear surfaces.

I also use gas stabilizer in tank when I change the oil, and before running the engine.

I do not run carb dry of fuel (how do you do that with a full tank of gas?).

I used a 6v trickle charger one year, but the next year I forgot and the engine started right up. The 6v Optima battery nicely holds the charge.

Tim
I like to change oil in the spring if it is stored in an unheated garage. Some condensation may build up in the crankcase over the winter and will be there until the engine is fully warmed up.
That is also why it is better to store with a full tank of fuel to reduce condensation and rust.
I guess you could also crack the oil drain in the spring and drain any moisture out then
As for running the carb dry. Install a shutoff valve before the fuel pump. Shut it off in the fall, unhook the suction line so the pump does not have solid dry line. Then start and run the engine until the carb runs dry.
You could also "fog the engine" when it starts to sputter to coat the cylinder walls. Here an article.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...e-getting-your-engine-all-oil-fogged-up/

Set the truck or car up on blocks the let the suspension rest for a few months.
I'm sure there is more you can do, depending on the time period it will be stored and your conditions.

More people will be jumping in here to give their thoughts on do's and don'ts.

Don

Um, thanks Tim. I guess we can add those as "For Further reading ..." to our organic *Stovebolt.com* tech tip ...

If you carefully read the information at the links, you noticed that I chose them because they agreed with my procedure.

Oh, and they were the first five links (most used/visited links) in the Google search.

Looks good. When we've found "for additional reading" as we researched a TT, we have always listed those at the bottom. So, those are good.

Peg

I probably violate most of the rules!
I pull it in the shed, put a box of mouse poison on the floor, throw a couple of old sheets over it, and walk away. If I remember, I put some Sta-Bil in the gas tank. This year I did take a board and block the clutch pedal down. Other than checking a couple times in the winter to see if the d-Con needs replenishing, it sits there till spring. 95% of the time it starts right up in the spring.

Rich,

Oh this is just info sharing. The only thing we "put up" around here is the farm equipment we won't use until next spring. We even have to do a few do-dads to the water irrigation lines.

Glad the old gal starts up each spring for you ... so far!

Peg

What? You mean don't drive it ALL winter?!?! My winter prep, besides radiator flush and fill, is putting sandbags over the rear axle so it will be snow worthy. (If I didn't drive it this winter, I'd have to ride my bike!)

Rich'sToys mentions "take a board and block the clutch pedal down." What effect does that have on the clutch mechanism?

Trying to keep the disc from sticking to the flywheel. Had that happen once after it had sat a while. Went to start it up, stepped on the clutch, but it wouldn't disengage.

If one leaves the clutch springs compressed All winter, they might get weak. Keep the clutch dry, I know in the rust belt might be harder, high gear helps release rusted disc.

So as long as we're on that subject, should that happen, what are the good tricks for getting it to disengage?

might try cranking the engine over with the truck in gear

For you guys who keep your trucks out all winter, don't forget some good snow shots for the calendars! Never have enough snow shots -- for the cover, too.

Would really like someone working out under the hood of their truck, with snow banks all around ?? For the Stovebolt index page!!!

Okay thank you all. This Tech Tip is updated. We'll list it with the next round on the index page.

I had forgotten about Kevin's involvement in the NAPCO Owners Group. Their website looks pretty good. Sent him a note; hope he's still there???

Thanks,
Peggy

I have put mine up every winter and at the suggestion of a car nut buddy put several bars of Irish Spring soap inside the cab. Seems to work, nothing eating up anything, works for me,

November 4, 2022

I just made this a "corner ad" for the forums. Wanted to post in here so folks will know that this thread is "more or less" active.

Maybe some new tips since ... 2016.

Preparing for winter where I live means rolling up the window and closing the cowl vent.

Starting and idling an engine without driving it does not burn off the water generated from combustion, generates about as much water as fuel burned, does not do your engine any favors. Best to start and drive or gets block heater to (just get engine warm).

Ed

Getting the green Turd ready for winter rains᠁᠁

It's always kind of strange doing this announcement since some folks had "winter" already and maybe about done.

I saw big snows coming for the PNW soon.

"Winter" in the south south .... what? Watch out for Snowbirds!!

Ranch truck is driven / used All year.

Great snow pictures!!

Well here is my winter routine:

Besides all the usual tips - I pull my plugs and spray the cylinders with an ample amount of Balistol (German weapon oil - just sticky enough to last a few months).
I repeat that after turning the other pistons to BDC, till all the cylinder walls are well covered - not a big fan of fogging.

I skip that "put her on blocks" thing, since "flat spots" on tires are IMHO a myth - I had a car just sitting there for 10 years and not a single flat spot.
Just make sure you have a bit more pressure than normal.

I disconnect the fuel pump (electric) and run the carb dry. Also spray the carb down with weapon oil.

Here comes the important part: before I wake her up in the spring, I pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump with a drill. till I have full pressure and oil coming out of the rockers.
This is probably more beneficial, than any other thing I do.

Talking about fuel stabilizers - I use Labracin (it's from Austria, not sure if available in the US).
I use it since years and I'm quite happy with it - they claim it t cleans the fuel system, lubes, emulsifies water, neutralizes acids, prevents rust, is a lead substitute,
keeps the gas stable for over a year and raises the octane level slightly (2 numbers).

What do you guys use, and what's your experience?

Frank

We have a product here called Stabil that is added to fuel for long storage. It's useful for lawn equipment and vehicles.

Biggest issue I have is the cold and humidity we have here in the Winter. When I open the garage door, condensation forms all over the truck. This condensation can cause surface rust to form on some of the cheap chrome goodies I bought (e.g. taillight housings, inside of bumper). Yes, these parts were manufactured in China. Is there a wax or some other coating that can be applied to help prevent this?

I just drive mine.

I have the same issue with condensation. My garage is dug into a hill so the the concrete walls are normally colder than the outside air. My walls sweat so bad I thought the foundation was leaking. It turn out to be condensation. I installed a dehumidifier a few years back and it resolved the problem. I no longer have rusty tools. I do shut it down once the temperature in the garage goes below 40 degrees fahreneit.

Gord&Fran - Polish your chrome as normal with Simonize or whatever and then wax it with regular car wax. I use Turtle Wax.

Upside might be that concrete continues to harden for 50 years if there’s moisture. So I’ve read.

The no energy solution to condensation on the concrete walls is to put some spray on insulation on them. If the surface temperature is above the dew point, there won't be any condensation. It'd only take about an inch thickness.

Gord&Fran My seapy round heater core will put condensation on my windows inside in cold weather,I then wipe them off nice and clean,open the doors they dry off and go. Gonna have to pay the piper and buy a heater core,cooling system is clean just hate stop leak,a friend swears by a heaping table spoon of black pepper. I'm sure you old bolters have heard of that,model T trick !!

Gonna have to pay the piper and buy a heater core,cooling system is clean just hate stop leak,a friend swears by a heaping table spoon of black pepper. I'm sure you old Bolters have heard of that model T trick !! I have used the pepper trick in the past with success but have a natural aversion to adding snake oil remedies to engines.

Classic Truck Parts sells a complete round heater core with tanks and housing for a little over $200. That's a bargain in my opinion. Well made- exactly as original.

Other companies sell just the round fins with no tanks or anything for the same money. They want you to use your old tanks and housing and have some radiator shop put it together for you.

Fortunately I repaired mine back in 2021 when the price was under $200.

Ueagh, they raised the price again. $269 now. Still, where else are you going to get one?

Here's a bit of a "check list" that came in from Classic Truck Parts:

Where we are the highways maintenance guys spray a brine solution on the road when the temperature gets close to freezing. If you go for a drive, this stuff get all over your vehicle. I'd like to take it for a run today, but I don't want to deal with the mess and possible corrosion issues.