The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline How tight should the threads be on the tie rod?

I started replacing all my steering components today and when it came time to install my new tie rod ends (modern style) the threads were extremely tight and it took a 10-inch screwdriver in the bolt holes to really crank it on there. Yes, I know that one side is left-handed threads and the other is right-handed and I didn't get them mixed up. I even cleaned the threads with a wire wheel and used grease. But it does feel like there's some damage being done or that the threads aren't quite compatible. Look at the photos and you'll see that the threads aren't exactly being damaged, but the sharp edge of each thread is certainly being worn off. And it's probably too tight to adjust properly once it's on the truck--I have it clamped in my vise and it's still spinning a bit.

Should I try to pry the tie rod ends open a bit? The parts are from Chevs of the '40s so I would assume they're good.

Any thoughts?

Drive a small chisel into the gap in the sleeve to spread it out a little. You should not be shaving metal off the male threads like that. Even if you do manage to force the threads together, they will end up getting galled and seizing up if you continue to force the issue. Also, get a tube of anti-sieze compound from your local parts store and use it liberally.
Jerry

Definitely spread the tie rod, remove the end, drive a wedge in the groove.

Thanks, guys. I'll give it a try today.

Success on the tie rods. Thank you for the info!

Second question: is there a bushing in the pitman arm? My new drag link is tapered and the hole in the pitman arm is a little undersize. It almost looks like there's a bushing in there. Should I try to press it out? Drill it? Ream it somehow? I was under the impression that it would bolt right in, but apparently not. Hmmmm...

Matt,

With each new question you should start a new thread, that way you have the best chance of getting it answered. Don't forget to tell us what year/make/model you're working on with each new thread.

Adding a description of your truck in your "signature block" is also helpful.

Mike B

GM uses 16 and 18 tpi on some steering components on same truck, so measure carefully!

Ed

Matt Harwood I notice on a lot of new threaded parts it will be tight like their taps are worn from use.

Well, I can't adequately express my displeasure with Chevs of the '40s. They sold me a new 1-piece drag link, telling me that it would look different but work just fine. Turns out that there's a tapered stud on the drag link that won't fit in the straight hole of my 1950 pitman arm. When I called them to ask, they said it was unlikely that someone there would have told me that part would fit. I insisted that they did, and they offered to refund my money if I send back the part. But the real problem is that I acted on their advice and removed the ball studs from my pitman arm and wheel bracket. Now I can't go back to the old drag link and I can't install the new one. The truck is immobile and tying up my lift until I solve the problem. Grrrr...

Couldn't be more unhappy with Chevs of the '40s. Bad advice and now my truck's buggered with no solution in sight. Maybe I'll try making my own drag link. It'll look totally wrong but at least the truck won't be paralyzed.

I understand your frustration. There are replacement balls available. I've replaced the ones on my '51 pitman arm. I wouldn't try to jury-rig a drag link. That's something that you don't want to risk your life (or that of others) on. Another option to replacing the balls is to ream the straight holes with a taper reamer.

Taper reamer is the way to fix your issue.

The quickest, and safest fix will be to ream the Pitman arm and steering arm to fit the tapered studs on the new drag link. Try Victor Machinery Co. for a selection of reamers that will match the measurements of the studs on the new drag link. They're pretty good people to deal with, even if they talk a little funny ("Noo Joisey", I think!)

www.victornet.com

Jerry

Those guys are in Michigan, not Noo Joisey, Jerry. I've looked at them before and they mainly carry machine tool tapers (Morse, Jacobs, and B&S), but automotive tapers for ball joints and tie rod ends are quite a bit steeper than that, typically 7 degree or 10 degree. Here's a possible source. Link

Well Jerry, at least if they are in Michigan they talk perfectly. Maybe whoever you had on the phone was transplanted from Joyzee!

Thanks for the additional links, guys. That's very helpful!

Another option (although you would need to confirm the rod end sizes are correct) is to insert a taper bushing into the pitman arm and steering spindle arm: https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/heim-joints-and-inserts/products/dana-gmts

I used these in the conversion I made to relocate the drag link to the inboard side of the pitman arm.