The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Reputable Water Pump Rebuilder/Shop

Spent considerable time searching the site and didn't see anything. Do any of the folks here have recommendations on who to use to rebuild original water pumps?

The original from my '64 292 gave it up back in April. Due to '63/'64 being an oddity of year that no one makes replacements for, I installed a '65+ water pump and just built an adapter for the bypass hose to work with the larger bypass output on the pump housing. The tolerances of this pump are off however and the pump wheel is slightly contacting the block (cylinder 1 inside wall) and slowly "self clearancing." Would like to get the original rebuilt and re-installed to fix that issue.

http://www.waterpumpkit.com/

good people

Same people rebuilt my '52 GMC pump that now has about 40,000 miles on it.

Arthur Gould Rebuilders Water pump and fuel pump rebuilders
5R Main Street
Kings Park N.Y. 11754
(631) 269-0093
http://www.arthurgouldrebuilders.com/index.htm




Flying Dutchman Water pump rebuilder and seller of antique water pumps for all makes and models
200 Davis Creek Road Services Europe and USA
Selma, Oregon 97538 New Cadillac pumps in stock for 1949 to 1962
1-888-595-1110
outside US call 541-597-4057 ask for Tony
http://www.fdrbp.com/



Mike Gadaleto Remanufactured water pumps
1734 Arrowhead Drive
Atco, New Jersey 08004
856-753-6788

A few minutes with a flap wheel on an angle grinder will solve the clearance problem on the current pump. (or maybe using a thicker gasket?) There's nothing particularly "precision" about spinning an impeller around inside a coolant passage.
Jerry

Thank you very much Gentlemen. I appreciate it.


Guess I hadn't given that much thought. Ill pull it back off and grind it down. Still aim to have the original rebuilt and on the shelf as a spare at the very least.

Then and Now Automotive in the Boston area. They have reproduced (in the USA, and decades ago) many of the different fuel pump and water pump castings. Not that a new casting is always available, but if it is, nice to know these folks will have quality ones of most of the common castings.

If I couldn't rebuild it myself, this is where it would go.

Jon.

I have used this guy in the past. He does about 50-75 rebuilds of water pumps, alternators, generators and starters a week shipping all over the US. I just had him rebuild both a starter and generator for a 1947 Dodge. The cost for the rebuild of each was $175. I don't know what it would be for your water pump but the owner has been in business since 1971 and when he gets something from an older vehicle he likes to do the rebuild himself. Both of my recent rebuilds he turned around in 2 days.

Hamilton's

I've had great success with 'Flying Dutchman'...been doing business with him for almost 20 years! He machines your housing to accept a modern seal.

Mike

Here's another good option.....

Hite Parts Exchange

I know I gave three other suggestions for water pumps, including the flying Dutchman, but I'll give a nod to Then & Now Automotive. If they do as thorough and careful a job on water pumps as they did on my fuel pump, you can't go wrong.

Again, thank you to everyone who has responded.

Just a side thought; would it be worthwhile to sticky this thread or capture this info somewhere that is able to be quickly found or linked to for others in the future? As I have discovered, the only way to find good shops/companies that are still in the business of rebuilding these obsolete parts is via word of mouth, both on here and from some of my locals who have been in the classic community for decades. I am yet to have any luck searching the general internet for places who even know the vehicle said parts are for, let alone the specific part.

HFfarms You might check impellar clearance to the pump casting (.010) feeler gauge,may need pressed on a little more. Support the shaft in your press.

This sounds like the most logical approach. Is .01 pretty universal? Assuming the clearance is off (too large) could it lead to inefficiencies in the pump and thus an engine running slightly hotter? I've been troubleshooting a warm engine all season this year and not had luck. She's not running hot, not by any means, but not as cool as she used to with the old WP before it went out. No real issues until running partially loaded on a hot day (90*F +) when temps climb to around 205ish if I wind her out on the highway.

205 on the gauge or ?

Ed

205 isn't really that hot.

I agree that it isn't getting "hot" but it is running warmer than previously. 205 is ballparked. Im guessing temp is between 200-210 somewhere. Warm enough to make me nervous.

Last spring I grossed around 24k lb total weight and rolling at highway speed, she maintained 190ish on an 80*F day without issue, which is right where I like it for my trucks. Fast forward to this spring and the new WP installed and unloaded she runs slightly warmer, and will creep toward the "hot" range on the gauge on a hot and humid day. So no, not overheating, but also not running cool where she should be.

I plan to flush the radiator with acid this winter and try a new thermostat, just wondering if the WP is inefficient.

First, I would verify the actual temperature at the water outlet with an infrared thermometer. I'd also plumb in a temporary gauge to the sending unit and see what the temp actually is. Unless of course you already have aftermarket gauge on the truck and are not going by the original instrument panel gauge.

The impeller should be "marking" exactly where to grind the wall. You have everything else figured out/modified/adapted. Not a good idea to stay with an unobtainable pump when you can use an available one. They do wear out fairly often. This final step will cost $0.00