That’s how I should have done mine. I didn’t know enough then.[/quote]
How so? I had planned on keeping each section going to completion. but that was blown out of the water. I think I am satisfied with the cab and hood. The real bodywork begins now. I think I am going to pause it and go back to the bed, get that done and out of the way of everything else.
Well. Played around with the bed this weekend. Needed.a break.from the cab. Got boards cut, into place, end one cut to accept the side rail, ss angle strip drilled, and bed side drilled. Only have pics of the boards in place. Going with generic composit boards there is no cutting at all. Nine of them drop right into place perfectly.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; 10/23/202211:07 PM.
Did you blast the frame? What paint used on it? Did you hire someone to media blast the cab or ? And what media, any problems with not being able to get all the media out of the inner panels?
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
I did not blast the frame. I pw, wire wheeled, pw, used acid and oven cleaner to clean. I used Eastwood rust encapsulator on frame and suspension. One coat by bursh second coat by spray. I will probably top coat with a undercoat material once all together cause it scratches easily.
I had the cab blasted. Crushed glass. I imagine there is still media in areas. Did my best to blow vacume it out.
When I had my cab blasted it was on a rotisserie, so I could rotate, vacuum, rotate, vacuum, etc. to get the leftover media out. There was still just a bit in a few places, but that just made the primer coat "slip-resistant."
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Bed bodywork is done!!! Last coat of primer went on Sunday after a stupid amount of time trying to straighten everything out. None of the pieces are perfect, but they are soooo much better than they were. Just a light sanding to prep it for color and I am in happytown!!!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I sprayed my first few pieces of the bed with the liner product. I need to call their tech cause it ran right off the verticals and dripped. I am supper bummed at the moment, but at least I was smart enough to do a few pieces that were small or out of sight. The big flat panel is the front of the bed that faces the cab, so that can look like crapola if need be.
Got some time finally over the weekend. Seems as though its 2 steps forward and 1 step back. Or three steps back. Seeing I can't spray color for a few months I coated in epoxy and started assembling the bed. Went smooth until I realized I had to take things back apart again due to the SS strips and welting. Anyhow here is some of the stuff this weekend. Hopefully its the last time this bed comes apart, but somehow I doubt it.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; 01/09/202312:41 PM.
Got to play with a stud puller this weekend as well. Friend has one and let me try it. Dents in cab where PO stored a large Jon boat are almost gone. Couple dents in hood are out, but this last big one he wants to bring a tool that grabs more than one of the studs at a time to try and bring it up better so that one is on hold.
Your progressing nicely. I know about spraying in the cold. Five years back, I sprayed my sons vehicle with a 2k base and clearcoat in early September. It was barely over 60 degrees and maintained with a heater for two days. It dried enough for me to sand and rub it out, but was still soft that a finger nail would dent it if pressed into it. It stayed that way until the spring when it was warm enough to fully cure it. The paint did survive as it’s still good (and hard) till this day.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Well engine got here last week, so I figured it would be easier to get it out of the way vs the bed or cab. Got the engine and transmission into place and in its home I believe. Then went back to the bed. Welting is on both sides. Cross beams are in.
Word of warning to people doing similiar things. 1. If you are bolting the side strips to the bedsides and decide to hide one on the front a rear stake pocket, get them on before you put the rear sill in or you will be taking it all back apart like I did to get to one bolt. And if you are replacing the cross beams get the front one in before you hang the fender/step because you will have to take it all apart again if you don't.
Got the bed sat down on the frame this weekend. More to store it vs anything else as I need to get back to the cab. I think the tire might be a little small for the hole I have? Should have trusted my instincts when I bought wheels from Lugnutz. He had a wide set that we thought would not fit.
Curious why you chose to bolt on the side/angle strips. I am going to be making the bolt vs. weld decision in the coming weeks/months and always looking for input.
Great progress even when dealing with the colder temperatures those of us in the northern states need to deal with.
Finally warmed up a little today. Had to cut a new clutch inspection cover to make it fit, got the starter in. Angle for the transmission set and got to the end of the nasty dent on the hood. It was a good afternoon today.
Havent posted in a while. Had some small stuff get done and I figured I would wait till it added up.
1. Rear of cab seems to be straight and flat now. 2. Cab Sound deadener is in. Hope it makes a difference. 3. Firewall and inner fender is painted GM507.
Thanks for all the posts Ferris. I know it takes a lot of time & effort. I stumbled on to your rebuild some how, but had to join Stovebolt to see all the photos. Glad I joined, of course. My 66 short stepside won't be as nice as yours, but hopefully I'll be driving it by years end. I'm sure there's lots more Lurkers like me that are following your excellent thread. Again, thanks.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Appreciate the positive plug. I hope it comes out as nice as I am expecting it to. Not too sure at the moment. Seems as though I have loose threads everywhere.
Steering components are in and tires are moving together again finally. Cab extensions were is horrible shape. Got them almost good, so into the soup for rust removal. Started assembling the rad support and grill support. Got the rad support cover repaired with a washer. Looks almost factory.
Last edited by Ferris Bueller; 03/27/202312:33 PM.
Do you have a radiator picked out? Do you plan to install the rubber filler pieces along the edges of those radiator side panels?
I don't. Original looks to be in decent shape so I may use it. Not sure yet. I have some conveyor belt material I am going to use for the original seals.
Realized I had bought the precut sound deadening yesterday. I figured two layers would be better than one. The precut set is way more durable and dense vs the big roll I bought. Had to throw the carpet down to see what it will look like. It's way more blue than what the pic shows.
Do you have a radiator picked out? Do you plan to install the rubber filler pieces along the edges of those radiator side panels?
My '66 didn't have a radiator when I got it, but the brackets for the upper & side seals were still there. Since I put a 454 in my truck, I had planned on buying a premium US made radiator that came recommended on another Chevy truck site. But I stumbled on a Amazon 4 tube unit for the '66 for $200 delivered. I figured I'd use the cheap rad to get the truck running & finishing the build. Then purchase the USA unit when the truck is ready for the road. But the El Cheapo looks & fits so well, including the top & side baffles & seals, that I'm going to use it till it fails, for whatever reason. I did have to flip one of the baffles over in order to pick up a little more room for the side seals to fit, I also glued the side seals rather than use staples. Pics are on my phone, so I'll have do a follow up post with them.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
Give Evaporust a try on those smaller parts. It works better (faster) than vinegar, and will loosen the paint as well. The downside is it has gotten expensive, nearly doubled in price to about $32 gal on Amazon.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.