The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Simple overdrive wiring diagram without kick down

I'm looking for a simple wiring diagram for my Borg Warner (1961) OD.
All I find is wiring with a kick down switch, which I don't want/need.
All I want is a main switch on the dashboard to turn the whole thing on and off.
Many moons ago, there was a PDF around that had 3 or 4 options how to wire it, from bare bones to a super complicated luxury version with 3 switches andwhatnot, but I can't find it anymore.

Thanks , Frank

My suggestion would be to wire it up as the factory intended for it to operate. Borg Warner engineers designed this system in the 30's and it worked well for Studebaker, Ford, Kaiser, Willys, Hudson, Chrysler, Packard, and others. Zero chance of damaging expensive internal components with it installed correctly.
Fred

Do it right the first time, and you won't have to do it over. The right circuit isn't that complicated, and you don't need to scavenge up scarce and expensive original equipment parts. A Bosch style cube relay and a micro-switch can be wired exactly like the original circuit.
Jerry

The kick down switch, that cuts out the ignition for a moment is not a problem when you are running a stock ignition,
but doesn't play nice with my electronic programmable ignition.

Chevrolet came out with 3 speed overdrive in 1955 so tell us more about your 1941 sedan transmission conversion (torque tube? rear axle ratio?).
Pictures of your transmission and drivetrain?
I assume you wish to keep your column shift and do not wish to convert to floor shift?

What you have now is a manual 3 speed transmission with an added overdrive. The overdrive portion is designed to function automatically (no manual shifting).
Most like the automatic function and I'm surprised you are not happy with it.

Don't have pictures, sorry - I swapped in the OD over 10 years ago.
Open drive shaft, 1962(ish) truck rear end - ratio: I don't know, but feels similar to the original, kept the 3 on the tree.

It worked all just fine and drove really nice - loved the way it is like half an automatic, but since the wiring was a total mess (the whole car) from the previous owner, I ripped it all out and started from scratch, doing it right.

With actual fuses and all - the only "fuse" in the whole car war a bolt in the light switch - so you can imagine the rest.

Problem is, I started the new wiring quite a while ago, but because of my job, I had to pause for almost 2 years - and now I can't remember how I wired the OD back than.
I had this PDF I mentioned, but that's nowhere to find.

If it was working before you should be able to make it work again.
Take pictures. Label your wires as you install them. Make notes on your wiring diagram.

The attached picture is old but is a decent representation using the original terminals/connections.
This system was designed to work on distributors with ignition contacts. I can explain why later.
To me the hardest part is making the kickdown switch and bracket work well with the carburetor linkage.
Are you still using the Fish carburetor?

Yep, that's the basic wiring diagram for just about every application except the very early ones with the electric lock out switch (which doesn't apply to Chevy).
Same as shown in the shop manual. The kick down bracketry is easy to fabricate and works well. If you have a GM HEI, the tach terminal is the negative side of the coil.
Fred

Fred are you saying it is safe to ground the GM HEI ignition (KD switch N.O. contacts closed)?

So how much do you charge to make a Fish bracket? Big grin.

Stovebold6, if you don't respond then we can only assume you have received all the help you needed.

I don't - I'm not good enough at electric stuff to eliminate the kick down switch, based of the diagram you posted.
So, if anybody knows how to accomplish that, please let me know what I would have to do.

Thanks, Frank

Momentarily grounding a General Motors HEI to kill the spark using the "Tach" terminal in the distributor cap does no harm at all. I've done it hundreds of times during a cylinder balance test. Not so sure about other electronic ignition systems.
Jerry

Guys...

as much as I like to hear your wisdom, but can we please get over that kick down switch?

I just need some help with that diagram.

Frank, please read 12a. and 12b. This is from the booklet "The Overdrive from Warner Automotive".

The KD switch has a dual purpose. The solenoid must be released and the ignition most momentarily be stopped so the transmission can mechanically drop out of overdrive. It takes a physical human action (pushbutton or switch) to initiate the downshift. Your transmission is a manual 3 speed plus overdrive. The overdrive is not something you control with you column shifter.

We don't mind helping you with the wiring diagram but you have to understand how the system works. It will make it easier especially when/if you have problems in the future.

Since I was driving this (without a KD) for a while...

It depends on your speed (via governor) and load on the drive train (some of it you can control with your gas pedal/clutch, in certain situations)
While normal driving - it shifts up and down just fine - no need for a KD.

Only when you want to force it, to shift down (at a certain speed and load) - let's say you want to go up a hill or overtake a car in lower gear - that's when the KD would come into play.
But actually I never really missed that feature. The 261 has a ton of torque, and the only time I was driving mountain roads, I locked out the OD via the cable anyway.


Frank

Edit: just found the diagram I used back than on OD diagram

Well cool! Sounds like you found your solution.
Good luck to you.