The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1935 207 engine oil line

1/8" copper line that runs to the rockers to supply oil. It was solder at the nut on side of block and copper line is now twisted off, so I need to fix it.
Can I solder top part of copper back on or should this be a one piece line down into block?

I doubt you could solder that back together successfully. Replacement lines are available. Link

I agree with Kevin...replace the line. Make sure the brass fittings are sealed tight when you install them in the block, if they leak you'll have water in you oil...

You should be able to get everything you need at your local hardware store.

Mike B

To get to the bottom end of oil line off I guess I need to take oil pan off? Haven't been in there yet.

The rocker oil supply tubing starts on top of the oil distributor on the drivers side, enters the block, passes through the water jacket where it exits on the passenger side, then turns and goes up to the rocker assembly. Dropping the pan will not gain anything as you can't see the tubing from below.

I'm suspecting you have a 1936 engine. Please post a picture of the drivers side of you engine showing the oil distributor or provide the casting number to confirm. The 35/36 engines are not identical even though they share the same internal parts for the most part.

Mike B

Here's a sneaky trick to help getting the tube through the water jacket. Run a thin, stiff wire like an acetylene welding rod through the old tube before you remove it, then use the wire to help fish the new tube through the block.
Jerry

I replaced mine last year with a bunch of help from this forum Jerry could you direct him to that discussion?

It’s tricky getting the oil line routed so it doesn’t rub on the side cover

Thanks Mike B and Jerry, the truck is at a farm about 18 miles away not far but I don't get there often. Next time I am there I will look into routing the oil line and see what need to be done. So when I get to it I will be installing new oil line not repairing old one. Last year when I first posted about this truck I did post pictures of the block and head casting # and guys informed me I have a 35-36 207 After speaking with the owner he did say the block was replaced in the 90's with NOS block has no serial # on block at all. The flat machined area near fuel pump is smooth no #'s at all.

Ok, I went back and re-read your 2021 posts and found your block casting number 836010 which confirms you have a 1936 engine.

From here going forward to prevent confusion please do not mention 1935 when talking about your engine. The '35 and '36 blocks are different and advise we give could be wrong if we forget which one you have.

Mike B

No experience at all with the 207 engines- - - - -do they have a similar oil circuit to the 216 and early 235? Those engines run a 3/16" oil line through the water jacket, not a 1/8", and the oil distributor on the driver's side of the block restricts the flow to the head until there's at least 15 PSI at the main bearings. The oil line is soldered to the adapter fittings on both sides of the block to prevent coolant leaks into the crankcase. Use COPPER line only- - - - -a 3/16" steel brake line would rust out quickly.
Jerry

WHAT????!

About 2 generations late- - - - -my grandfather ran 207's in two 1935 tractor-trailer rigs, hauling beer from Milwaukee and St. Louis to Nashville in the late 1930's!
Jerry

I'm amazed that that little engine could do that kind of work. Top speed must have been what? 40mph?

Around 45 MPH, downhill with a tailwind! The trailers were single axle with dual wheels, one was a dry box for bottled beer, and the other was insulated for hauling iced-down kegs. I believe the maximum legal payload back then was around 16K pounds. The trailers had no brakes, and the tractors had mechanical brakes, later assisted by a vacuum booster on the brake pedal linkage.

A sheriff up in Kentucky used to watch one particularly steep hill, and any truck that had to use 1st. gear to climb it got weighed for a potential overload. One of the trucks pulled better than the other one, so the weak sister got a legal load and struggled up the hills. While that one was being weighed, the better hill-puller would sail by in 2nd. gear- - - - -with a big overload! They got away with that tactic for quite a while!
Jerry

Yes, the 207 has the same basic oil line setup as the 216's. I've never seen any specs on oil pressure for the distributor, but it must be low as the oil pressure at 10 mph is only 6.5 pounds.

The 1935 block doesn't have a water jacket on the lower half of the cylinder bore so the oil line just passes through a hole in the web between #3 & #4. The 1936's got the full length water jacker and used brass fittings with ferrules on the 3/16" copper line.

Mike B

Sorry Mike B for the year era I will try to remember 36 36 36