The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Axle and Spring Removal

Looking to remove the axle to get the shock mount re-welded as well as getting the frame and springs cleaned up, painted and reinstalled. Of course rusted and stuck parts, sprayed the lock pins in Kroil and go them loose but not out yet. Sprayed Kroil on the spring pins and will try to tempt to remove with hammer and bar, or use an air hammer. Unless there is a trick?
Unsure what parts I'll need to replace or if possible just clean up and reuse such as the locking pins and spring pins (don't know the actual names). Then I'll probably either wire brush or blast the back part of the frame, axle and springs. Spring U bolts may need to be cut, will replace those as I think they are too long with nuts as spacers. E-Brake is stuck, will take some muscle and Kroil to break loose. Think that's the major project other than removing and replacing all the wires.

Have 3 places where someone has welded some plate onto the frame, not seeing anything cracked, bent or bad on other side of the plate, assuming it was there to hold onto something in the past. I'd like to grind it off and make smooth. Learning interesting things on this truck, wished I knew it's past.

Will probably use POR-15 brushed on the frame then painted over with rattle can paint, unless someone has different better idea?
TIA

Not necessarily a better idea but coating the frame with POR15 is probably overkill. How much actual work , mud, grime salt, water, etc is your truck going to see when you're finished? Probably none.

I used 12 rattle cans of Rust-O-Leum semi-gloss black to paint the entire undercarriage of my 1956 Cadillac. I did this over 15 years ago.

I use my car as a daily driver but it doesn't see road salt or anything like that. The Rust-O-Leum still looks like brand new under there. I sprayed it directly onto cleaned metal with no primer.

Your frame is entirely exposed and easy to get to. Clean it as best you can and go straight to the Rust-O-leum. Use a Rust Converter first if you wish.

That bracket with MOOG cast into it is likely aftermarket. Good thing that ugly patch (pics 4 and 5) is at the rear of the frame. If it was forward of the axle, I'd be inclined to fishplate it on the inside for structural integrity. Not as critical at the rear. Welding on a frame, especially the flanges is generally a no-no, and will weaken it.

I agree with Otto, that POR15 is probably overkill, especially if you blast it.

On the spring pins, DO NOT use an air hammer. That'll just mushroom the ends. Use a ball joint press. The pins may thread in like the 1/2 ton trucks, although the bushings are pressed into the spring eyes.

I was able to remove the shackel pins in the frame of my '50 3600 but the pins that engage the springs I did not remove. If they move they should come out. There is access to the inside of the pin through the frame bracket to be able to drive the pin out. I did need to heat one of the retainer pins before it would move. They can be tricky given that you are required to pound on the threaded end to emove them. I backed off the nut to be flush with the end of the pin to minimize the potential damage and was able to reuse them.

I had my entire frame blasted and painted by a local shop but if I was doing a section of the frame I would probably just use Rustoelum as recommended above.

Looking at your lower shackle pins, they show quite a bit of wear. I don't think you'll be able to save them. You'll see when you get them out. Keeper bolts come out first. Worst case, if they don't want to come out with normal methods, is to drill them out. If the pins aren't available aftermarket, making them wouldn't be too hard.