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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
C
Junior Member
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C Offline
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
I have been working on a '57 6400 for the last 5 years (that makes it a hangar queen, right?) Anyhow the truck is almost ready to roll, except...the previous owner had pulled the stock 6 cyl. out and put in a '75 350 w/4 bbl q-jet. Runs sweet, but all the vacuum lines were jury-rigged. Needless to say, nothing work right. Truck has a vac. operated 2-spd rear end and a hy-vac brake boost system. I have replaced all the rotten hoses, but cannot figure out where the last 4 lines need to go, especially the hookup from the hy-vac to manifold via some valves mounted on the firewall, and also the rear end selector to manifold. I have a factory manual, but it doesn't have any vacuum line diagrams. Can anyone out there tell me where to find a diagram. :confused:
Thanks,
Carl

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
Ummm! Most of the old rigs just have a big lug in the side of intake, with hose to the valve on the firewall. That is a checkvalve. Sometimes this valve has small line inside to speedo gear changer, and a gauge if you have, some don't. This line runs down under cab to metal lines back to the rear. Many times those metal lines are rusted out and will leak, hoses rot too. This is special hose that won't collapse when under vac, don't use heater hose. Napa and others should have that big hose. I'm pretty sure the Assembly Manuals have the routing, maybe you need to look under diff headings?
I would think you could come off your V-8 at manifold fitting on back, behind carb, where vac hose to power booster usually is on more modern trucks. Should be a bigger 1/2 to 3/4" pipe fitting with plug maybe, or has a brass elbow with hose barb plugged off? Run it to firewall fitting first, then try all the switches and listen for leaks before deciding what to fix. If it leaks bad, engine will run rough too. Sometimes you need to tap that firewall valve with hammer to knock it loose, or remove and loosen it. There is basically a spring and ball in them, sometimes rust. Don't loose the parts if you take off.
Many times the old hydra vacs get rusty in the master cylinder on them and won't work. Or, the diaphragm is leather and rots/leaks. There are no kits to repair, usually just replace with something newer from junkyard. IF you can find one not too junky. Shop manuals have full repair procedures on them, but you probly won't find parts as mentioned. There are rebuilders of them in CA and elsewhere, but everything I ever sent that was old was too far gone to fix. Rebuild's usually around $300. They also have newer units to replace yours for a little more $. Then the wheel cylinders will probly be bad and leak, the lines all over truck, etc. This will not be a quick and cheap fix, keep that in mind. If any shoes have fluid or rear grease on them, they will also need recover, and new axle seals.
Are You depressed yet? Been there many times trying to get these old rigs rolling again. That's why they are setting around, too costly to fix, just cheaper to replace truck with later model. They run cheap!


G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750


MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors

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