Starting work on my truck this weekend. Some panels had been removed years ago so there is a risk that the door pillar was not in the right place. I moved it until I got a good door gap at the rear/top/bottom and braced it. The pillar was about 1/2" too far outboard, missing the rocker at the bottom by a small margin, so I pulled it in and braced it there also. These photos show the current state of affairs. I have all the replacement panels already and am taking my time performing multiple measurements.
The photo of the passenger side worries me a little as it looks like the floor has dropped.
Anyway, as always input is welcome!
Paul
Last edited by paul65; 10/15/20226:10 PM.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
That brace in your first picture to the back of the hinge pocket is going to be in the way. Also it appears to be an attempt to hold the floor in position. I don't think that's really necessary, as you can locate the floor at each A pillar and make sure it's flat all the way across. You should also install some diagonal bracing across the door openings and at the A pillars across the front. Otherwise it looks like a good start. For locating the floor, you can use dimensions from the FAM from the upper hinge bolts (or some other known point) down to the floor. Mark the A pillars at the floor elevation to give you a reference for the new floor pieces.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
That brace in your first picture to the back of the hinge pocket is going to be in the way. Also it appears to be an attempt to hold the floor in position. I don't think that's really necessary, as you can locate the floor at each A pillar and make sure it's flat all the way across. You should also install some diagonal bracing across the door openings and at the A pillars across the front. Otherwise it looks like a good start. For locating the floor, you can use dimensions from the FAM from the upper hinge bolts (or some other known point) down to the floor. Mark the A pillars at the floor elevation to give you a reference for the new floor pieces.
Got to get up early to get one past you! Yes, you are absolutely correct that the large tube bracing at the front will be in the way. That has ben there for 3-4 years and I simply haven't gotten around to removing it. Re floor height I measured from the first MGF hole at the top of the drivers door to the floor pan and it ALMOST matches up to the FAM at 44.96 (mine is more like 44.85, so I will recheck as the new panel goes in).
Thanks on the diagonal recommendation.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
Yikes! Prayers sent. With that said, you can get this truck back together. My advice to is to attach as many of your replacement parts with small self-tapping screws as possible before welding anything in place. You will find that as you go along, you will need to move things around. Removing self tapping-screws is much easier than cutting welds.
One other thing to consider is to, "start with a door and build the truck around it." That approach will save you many headaches later.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
You are on the right track. Given the lack of connectoin between your hinge pillar and anything below the dash you will need to get it located correctly before getting it secured to the rocker panel and front cab mount.
Replacement panels are not a very good fit typically and should not be used to locate the critical parts (such as the hing pillar). Rather locate the pillar and then massage the panels to fit.
You are on the right track. Given the lack of connectoin between your hinge pillar and anything below the dash you will need to get it located correctly before getting it secured to the rocker panel and front cab mount.
Replacement panels are not a very good fit typically and should not be used to locate the critical parts (such as the hing pillar). Rather locate the pillar and then massage the panels to fit.
Yes, I am finding that once the bracing is in place I am now spending a long time measuring, checking, remeasuring and so on. With nothing connecting the door pillar to anything, I am studying the FAM to try to understand basic things like how far forward the new rocker panel should protrude behind the hinge pillar. If anyone has that measurement it would be very helpful. It looks like the front end has to line up with holes in the inner cowl panels which themselves line up with the front edge of the outer cowl panel.
I am planning on simply mocking up 4-5 panels using self tapping screws to see how they fit. Very conscious that I can measure/move multiple times but ONLY until it is welded so that will be some way off.
1951 3100 5-window with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed Some of the story in ODSS Most of it in The Shops Area
