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Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 100
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 100
I’m in the process of gathering parts to do a 5spd transmission conversion on my 1946 1/2 ton short wheel base Chevrolet. What drive shaft do I need?

Is there a std size drive shaft that will work, or do I have to get a custom drive shaft made?

Doing an early 60’s Chevy truck differential.
92 or earlier S-10 5spd trans.
Aftermarket 5spd adapter.
Short style throw out bearing.

Which drive shaft?


Care taker of a 1946 1/2 ton. Pretty much period correct original. Danny T, from B’ham, Al
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,208
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Don't know about the 1946 and likewise I don't have any idea what the junkyard situation in Birmingham is, but I had to have one made for me. All the ones I found were either an inch too short (won't work...yoke doesn't slide in quite enough) or too long. I could have cut a long one down, however all those I found had the wrong u-joint scheme and I never have liked those half/half u-joints made to connect the wrong thing to the right thing. At least the one I had made is completely balanced and uses proper u-joints. Good luck!


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
90% sure your going to have to get one made. You could hunt the salvage yards with a tape measure and calipers for days and not find one that fits. It’s been about 5 years since I had one built but the price was just at the $300 mark.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Lots of variables are at play here.
My situation is different but some of this might be useful info.
I have a 1963 C10 with 115” wheelbase. I found a salvage yard drive shaft that was the correct length and had the correct slip yoke. All I needed to do was swap out the rear universal joint for a conversion u-joint and it bolted right up. Drives great and without vibration.
My 1965 C10 also has the 115” wheelbase but I had a driveshaft shop swap modify my original driveshaft. They swapped out my original slip yoke for a correct slip yoke from an S10 truck. That required a conversion u-joint for the slip yoke. The rear u-joint did not need to change. They shortened the driveshaft about 3”.
Dennys Driveshafts has a website and a free worksheet that can help you measure the correct length driveshaft for your application.

The pictures below show the salvage yard Blazer driveshaft I used in my 1963. Neither of my trucks have an adapter plate for the T5. The conversion u-joint pictured was correct for my application but might not be correct for yours. The Blazer slip yoke pictured is correct for a T5.
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