Does anyone know a parts place that sells a complete Ignition Switch with keys ? I don't want just the lock cylinder and keys...I want a complete Ignition Switch. Thanks in advance.
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
Lots of the usual vendors sell them (assuming GMC's are the same as Chevys.) Here's one but you'd also need to buy the cylinder and key separately.
Sent you a PM
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Jon, the only issue with that one is some light tweeking to get it installed which I'd prefer not to do. I have that same switch installed on my '65 Malibu SS and agree that its a quality replacement.
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
What is the easiest way to bypass the Ignition Switch to just get the engine running ?...jumper from Positive terminal on Starter to Positive terminal on Coil ? I have yet to get this engine started since acquiring the truck and want to hear it run...can't wait for Ignition Switch that I ordered to arrive. Also, any advice on using 12v (just for this first startup) to get engine to spin faster ?
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
What is the easiest way to bypass the Ignition Switch to just get the engine running ?...jumper from Positive terminal on Starter to Positive terminal on Coil ?
Yes, but use a alligator clip or inline switch so you can turn it off. Also don’t leave it on while the engine is not running as it can destroy the points, coil or condenser.
Last edited by Phak1; 08/28/20225:15 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
This truck has never been started by me...I've done the preliminary turning over of the engine etc. to prepare it for a "safe" start. I don't have a key or a 6v battery so I want to bypass the ignition switch and I plan on jumping from a 12v source. Am I correct in assuming that all I need to do is the following : 12v Source -> Pos./Neg. Battery Cable clamps / add jumper wire from Pos. terminal on Starter (where red Battery Cable attaches) to Pos. terminal on the Coil / Neg. terminal on Coil to Distributor ???
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
You can jump start it with a 12v battery directly to the battery post of your 6v battery to give it that extra boost trying to start it first time. Just don't stand on it too long and pull the jumper cables as soon as the truck starts. I did this with a 47 6v system to start it after being dormant for 20+ years.
You can start it on 12v, but a 12v battery feeding a 6v coil won't work... for long.
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
I have started many of them on 12 volts. Disconnect the wire going to the rest of the truck electrical system so you will not damage any gauges or other equipment. I always put an ignition resister in the jumper going to the power side of the coil. Get one for a late 50's chevy. They are not expensive. Without it you will burn the points. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
1. Your first question was answered by Kevin. Buy that switch and buy the tumbler and keys for it. Sounds like you ordered it, good. Don't need it for a start up. 2. You say you do not have a 6V battery. 3. Buy a 6V battery or convert to 12V. Do one or the other.
If you don't have a 6V battery, want to start and run on a 12V battery and you have a foot start, you will have to buy a 12V coil, a ballast resistor and a foot start switch with a side terminal. That's half way to a 12V conversion. So advise what you want to do and I will help.
Foot Start...I do have the Switch/Tumbler/Keys in hand but not ready to install as my only goal right now is to get the first start, and then I plan on covering with a tarp until Spring...truck is stored outdoors and I won't have anymore time to devote to it this year. I do intend to convert to 12v next Spring/Summer in preparation for a modern V8 at a later time (another reason I don't want to buy a 6v battery). Is the Ignition Resistor and 12v Coil really necessary if I disconnect the 12v starting source as soon as the engine starts ?? I do appreciate all the feedback from everyone as it has been very helpful...this is the first 6v vehicle I've dealt with. What is the need for the Foot Switch w/ Side Terminal ?
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
I feel sorry when I read posts like these. Not bragging but I have 2 garages one climate control and the other 26x24 2 stories and I have very little mechanical ability. Just pray for an early spring. Best of luck.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am. 1954 3100 Chevy truck In the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix 1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
Foot Start...I do have the Switch/Tumbler/Keys in hand but not ready to install as my only goal right now is to get the first start, and then I plan on covering with a tarp until Spring...truck is stored outdoors and I won't have anymore time to devote to it this year. I do intend to convert to 12v next Spring/Summer in preparation for a modern V8 at a later time (another reason I don't want to buy a 6v battery). Is the Ignition Resistor and 12v Coil really necessary if I disconnect the 12v starting source as soon as the engine starts ?? I do appreciate all the feedback from everyone as it has been very helpful...this is the first 6v vehicle I've dealt with. What is the need for the Foot Switch w/ Side Terminal ?
I don't know about disconnecting the 12V jump upon startup and running the motor. The charging system will have to be disconnected. Also the points may burn before you do whatever you are going to do.
The side terminal allows a normal 12V conversion system to max the voltage to starter and points during start, then when foot is lifted, reduce the voltage, thru the ballast, to the points.
I just know what works to get you started. Any other sketchy idea is up to you. A 6V battery will be the cheapest and easiest way. Find someone with a tractor or older truck to borrow the battery. Lord knows you are in the middle of tractor country.
is this (see pic) similar to the Ignition Resistor you're referring to ??
Yes. Wire that in with the hot wire going to the coil. Use the 6 volt coil. It will work fine. You can get the starter switch with the term. on the side but it will not be necessary to start it. You will need it & a 12 volt coil when you finally switch to 12 volts. You will want to switch to neg. ground when you make the final conversion.
George
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 10/02/20222:42 PM. Reason: Another thought
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Which battery cable is connected to the starter and which one is connected to the frame (ground)?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
are you saying that this vehicle is Positive Ground ?...the wiring diagram I have seems to indicate that it is Negative Ground
It was positive ground when it left the factory 72 years ago.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
it is Positive Ground now...i.e. Positive/Red/+ Battery Cable to Starter Terminal...Negative/Black/- Battery Cable to Ground. This truck has had some serious "tinkering" prior to my getting it...lots of extra wires...some going to nowhere...toggle switches (from the 80's) added to the dash (no wires)...etc. will proceed with getting Ignition Resistor and trying the 12v start...fingers crossed
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
it is Positive Ground now...i.e. Positive/Red/+ Battery Cable to Starter Terminal...Negative/Black/- Battery Cable to Ground.
You said "Negative battery cable to ground". Sounds like it has been converted to negative ground to me.
Color of the cable makes no difference.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
it is Positive Ground now...i.e. Positive/Red/+ Battery Cable to Starter Terminal...Negative/Black/- Battery Cable to Ground. This truck has had some serious "tinkering" prior to my getting it...lots of extra wires...some going to nowhere...toggle switches (from the 80's) added to the dash (no wires)...etc. will proceed with getting Ignition Resistor and trying the 12v start...fingers crossed
You need to understand what positive ground means. It means the positive/red/battery (+) cable is attached to a ground. Ground is the chassis metal. You have said you have "Positive ground now"....but you have described negative ground.
yes to both replies...I do know that color means nothing as anyone can "get it wrong" but they are apparently correct in this case (assuming it was switched to Negative Ground)...and...I did say Positive Ground but meant Negative Ground
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
12v -> Starter -> Jumper wire w/ Ignition Resistor -> Coil. Going to try cleaning up the Points (before replacing them) so see if I get a good spark. All she needs to do is fire and run a bit to have me satisfied for now...too many other things that need attention as well.
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
Success !...she (not sure why she's a she now...but that my previous reference) did fire and ran briefly being "spoon fed" 40:1 fuel with my previously mention configuration (12v -> Starter -> Jumper wire w/ Ignition Resistor -> Coil)...the Ignition Resistor gets VERY hot...any input on that ??...next step since the weather seems to be cooperating is to run her again ('spoon feed method) to see if the fuel pump will pull from a gas can...fuel line is disconnected at carb to prevent anything bad from entering the carb.
'50 GMC 1 Ton Dually - Barn Find (sort of...no barn)
..the Ignition Resistor gets VERY hot...any input on that ??
Gets hottest if you leave ignition on and points are closed.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
