The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Hot Battery Cable and No Crank

I have been in the process of refreshing my 55 1st Chevy 3100 for some time. While I haven't driven it in a couple of years, I would start it and let the engine get to temperature every week. That ended about five months ago when I replaced the leaky original radiator with a new, shiny aluminum one.I figured that while I was at it I should replace the water pump and thermostat. Problems developed when trying to find a water pump that actually fit, and when I did, the hoses wouldn't fit! Those problems have been solved but now the truck won't start. Won't even turn over. The starter was rebuilt by a shop here a few years ago and never gave me any trouble. At first, the engine turned over a couple times but sounded terrible. Then nothing. I have replaced the battery, the cables and the stomp starter. Still nothing but the positive cable gets very hot. I was afraid that the engine had seized but it will turn if I put the truck in third gear and push it. I am stumped! Any ideas? Thanks


Russ

55 1st 3100

Hot cable is likely due to poor connection, either at the battery terminal or at the lug on the starter switch. Take them off and make sure that they squeaky clean. While you are at it do the same with the negative terminals. If it still won't start and the cable still gets hot, at least you will have ruled out the connections. Cleaning all starter wire connections should be considered a part of ones general maintenance schedule.
If it still won't start, you may have a bad starter, regardless of how long ago it was rebuilt. Stuff happens.

Second what Carl says -- Battled that issue over the Summer. Its an issue with 6 volt systems, especially. I did as Carl said -- cleaned the battery terminal connections and the connection at the starter solenoid and issue went away. I also switched to a heavier gauge cable on my battery to ground and battery to starter connections -- I'm running welder cable helped a lot, too.

I have done all that Carl & John suggest with my 6v 1954 Suburban.

I also use heavy cables - 00 Gauge (2/0 AWG)
I also use 00 ground straps (everywhere).
Optima 6v RedTop high-performance AGM battery (12+ years old)

Clean connection points for ground straps and use a conductive antioxidant grease at connections points.

If the truck has been sitting a long time, I might have to prime the carburetor and then use the choke.

Starts first-time every time.

New battery? New cables? Should do more than "won't turn over" at all. Hot cable is cause by resistance. I go with carl "you may have a bad starter, regardless of how long ago it was rebuilt. Stuff happens." ...and I will add this: many times starters don't get rebuilt by people that know what they are doing anymore. Sad. Labor issues, they can only get Chinese parts....and.....dedication/work ethic is long gone.

If you live near the ocean, that will cause all matter of corrosion as Carl John Tc are saying, at
connections all over the place, cables, battery terminals, starter terminals, all grounds, starter switch.

Here is a scenario I've seen since you mention new water pump. If water pump is somehow frozen/belt too tight.....you may be able to push truck in gear and seems OK because belt slips, but starter can't over come the fiction. This is just something I had to say. Not my no.1 guess.

Check your oil for milky before continuing.

Check voltage at battery posts.

You can remove the belts if you suspect anything and push again or try to start motor.

Take the fan belt off and try to crank the engine over. Since the water pump was the last thing you installed, how about checking to see if it managed to lock itself up during installation. Hot cables can also be caused by the starter trying to turn an engine that's almost locked up, either with tight bearings or a belt driven accessory that doesn't want to turn. Look for the simple stuff first before you take a stroll "around Robin Hood's Barn" looking for something complicated!
Jerry

Take a look at that positive cable. There are a lot of cheap stuff out there. Some of them look good on the outside but are all plastic with a small copper conductor.

I appreciate all the suggestions. I took the belt off and still got nothing. All the connections are good. Again put the truck in third gear and pushed it to make sure the engine turns. It does. It's gotta be the starter. I called the local shop that rebuilt it and the owner answered the phone to tell me that he is closed for good! After 45 years he gave up due to not being able to find anyone who wants to work and he got an offer for the property that he couldn't refuse. Pretty sad; another rebuild shop gone. The closest one now is on the other side of Mobile. I just may order one from Jim Carter and see what happens. Thanks all!

Russ



55 1st series 3100

I find it hard to believe (but if true it’s sad) that with the huge Cuban population in Florida, that is known for its mechanical ingenuity, a Starter/alternator shop is not closer.

I just GOOGLED Starter/Alternator rebuilders in Florida and got well over 50 hits.

Try turning it over with the spark plugs out. Put a little oil or trans fluid in the spark plug holes. The engine might have some corrosion in the cylinders making it tight.

George

Hang an old tire on the rear bumper, have another car or truck push you, turn your key on and put it in 2nd or 3rd gear, and let the clutch out. It will start. (if you havent tampered with the timing or wiring, etc..)
Good Luck
Marty

Remove the starter, put it in a vise, and bench test it with a set of jumper cables. If it spins freely at good speed and doesn't make the cables overheat, find the circuit problem between the battery and the starter, both hot and ground sides- - - -probably loose or dirty connections, or possibly a short.
Jerry

A word of warning:
The starter is wound for maximum torque and due to it's nature, will overheat and self destruct if operated continuously.
Limit to 10 to 15 seconds then stop. Wait for the motor to cool a few minutes before trying again.

rnigel Why don't you bi-pass that hot cable with your jumper cables ?? Just don't clamp onto the threads of your strarter post,get on the nut. If you take the starter off see if it will turn,then jumper it on the floor. On the first test be sure it's in neutral. One other thing some cables are aluminum that can have corrosion in them.

Thank you all for the advise. I made sure the engine turned over when pushed in third gear, so I finally ordered a new starter from Jim Carter and it turned over fine. I guess the rebuilt one went bad faster than I thought. Once it started I noticed some seepage from the water pump so I'll wrench that down tighter when it cools down. It did run hot, however, so I shut it off and carefully removed the new radiator cap. Got some blowback of coolant and rusty water. I'm not sure how many pounds of pressure the new cap has so I'll use the old one. The plan now is to run some citric acid once leak is fixed, and start flushing the rusty water out.

I appreciate the knowledge and experience many of you share with us!

Russ


55 1st 3100

The new radiator is probably rated for far more pressure than the heater core can stand. A 55 1st. series probably came from the factory with a 4# cap. A good OEM heater core might handle a 7# cap, but a 70 year old one- - - -who knows?
Jerry