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#1465395 09/06/2022 4:33 PM
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'Bolter
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Does anyone know of a good silicone valve cover gasket for a 51 216? I am done with cork crap.


1953 with a 216
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Curmudgeon
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/282715400118
https://realgaskets.com/product/valve-cover-gasket-44/
Follow the instruction sheet.

Valve covers are usually overtightened and warped.
I restraighten them flat and use a new (fresh, not NOS) cork gasket with no sealant.
Cork naturally weeps a small amount of oil but this is normal.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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'Bolter
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Luray You can take a thick cork gasket and coat it with silicon while new,wash all oil off of the head valve cover gasket rail with any solvent ( Iuse laquer thinner) then glue your gasket to the head. Let it dry overnight then install your valve cover,just tighten enough to stop the leaks.With your gasket coated it becomes a barrier to seeping oil and you can carefully take it off for service.Eventually they all leak I'm sorry to have to tell you !!! I don't think the above works as well with a neoprene gasket if you can still get them .

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'Bolter
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I doubt I could find the old thread, but I remember reading a couple less-than-favorable opinions of that silicon gasket.

At one time, I assumed that would be a Cadillac solution for valve covers. Seems like a cool idea.


1951 3100
JW51 #1465539 09/07/2022 7:51 PM
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'Bolter
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JW51 Those rubber type gaskets I tried would just squeeze out of there like a greased pig. Glueing the gasket to the head like I described to Luray worked the best on stovebolt and with aluminum covers on small blocks...I guess we done it on the 540 pulling truck too,so we could take the covers off to adjust,however shaft rockers stayed well.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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The instructions on that silicone gasket say that both surfaces have to be cleaned with solvent and dry before installing the gasket. I would imagine any oil on the sealing surfaces would let the gasket squeeze out like fixite7 describes.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Adding to Kevin's statement, tighten to 20 to 25 INCH-pounds. That ain't much. Barely snug.

How many here cuss when trying to scrape off old glued-on valve cover gasket on the head.
Even with a shop towel for coverage, a small piece always manages to fall down into the oil return then down to the oil pan.
If I had to use glue or adhesive on cork, I would only apply to the valve cover side.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
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I have one of those red silicone gaskets for the 2-acorn nut valve covers. I still had to work the tin to make it seal. I wish that the gasket was softer to aid in making a better seal with a slightly imperfect valve cover though.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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buoymaker I hate to see stuff fall down in there,then later find it on oil pump screen,got so I just automatically torque most gasket bolts to 25 inch pounds,routinly zing over pan bolts that way. My side of the garage apron is authorized to have territory marking oil spots and some gasket sheddings. If I get up and down off of my creeper too much makes my vertigo act up !!

52Carl #1465610 09/08/2022 12:19 PM
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'Bolter
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52 Carl I noticed too that the gasket was quite a bit too hard,I mean you just have these two nuts to put the squeeze on the whole gasket and the cover may not be a real good fit after years of service. Might have a little better chance with ridgid aluminum cover.


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