I can't seem to get the pitman arm off. I quit using my puller because I was afraid it was going to break. I borrowed a beefier one from OReilys that I broke this morning. I tried whacking it with a hammer with tension on the joint. I didn't try heat for fear of ruining the seals. I'm stymied. Will the box come out with the arm attached? How much stuff has to be removed underhood to make room to maneuver it out? Thanks.
I don't think you'd ruin the seal as long as you don't apply heat to the sector shaft. Just heat the pitman arm a bit and it should come off. Heat with some tension applied to the puller should do the trick. And if you're pulling the steering gear, you'll probably want to replace the sector seal with a modern lip seal anyway instead of eh original felt seal.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Try using a 4# hammer as a backup on one side of the arm at the splines a hit the opposite side with a 2# hammer. Just as you think you can't make another swing it will pop loose. Leave nut on loosely to protect threads. Yes the column will drop out the bottom IF you have a way to raise the front of the truck about three feet or have a lift to raise the whole truck. We use an air chisel/hammer with an available smoothing hammer attachment that we ground a concave end on it to stay centered on the pitman arm eye. Pops them loose in seconds.
I decided to give heat a try based on your suggestion. I pulled out my torch and discovered that the hoses were dry rotted and both bottles were empty.
Care with any method involving a hammer, the sector gears will not respond well to shock force, soak the pitman x sector joint with penetrant᠁a lot᠁. More inclined to heat/cool (torch & ice) to break the seized connection, heat the sector as possible then ice cold rag the pitman. Mine came free relatively well, lucky I guess᠁.
Try using a 4# hammer as a backup on one side of the arm at the splines a hit the opposite side with a 2# hammer. Just as you think you can't make another swing it will pop loose. Leave nut on loosely to protect threads.
Yep. I've used that method quite a few times. It makes the rust molecules let go and cover their ears. Works really well with tapered tie-rod ends. Better than a pickle fork that screws up the rubber cover. A little pressure on the end of the shaft (with the nut on) and they pop loose.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I can't really use a hammer very well because the pitman arm eye is shrouded by the box.
I still haven't had a chance to try heat. I got a new set of hoses and refilled the bottles last night. Got it all set up and discovered that my #1 tip has gone walkabout. I've got a #00 and a #4 cutting tip. The pitman arm would jist giggle at the size flame out of a #00.
I checked with the local hardware store, Tractor Supply, Atwoods, Harbor Freight, and Lowes/Depot. They all only have cutting tips and rosebuds. The local welding store wants $65 for a #1 welding tip.
After the rain slacks off, I'm going to go try with the cutting tip. It should be fine -- just a little unwieldy for the cutting torch under the fender.
Heat is heat. You can use the #4 as long as you don't leave it in the same spot for too long. You don't need to get the eye red hot (and shouldn't.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I got it out. I loosened the inner fender and pried it outboard for clearance, per the shop manual. Then, with a lot of wiggling, it came out the top with the pitman arm still attached. If I'd only known beforehand, I could have saved several hours messing with the pitman arm. Maybe the next guy will find this thread and benefit from it.
Thanks for the follow-up notes as those definitely help others when searching for help/answers!
On a side note: Are we maybe neighbors??? (I've been in Grandview since late 1994.)
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
