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#1463059 08/18/2022 4:22 PM
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'Bolter
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Hello,

New to the forum and completely new to 50's GM era. Just purchased a 1953 Chevy 3100 pickup and I am already addicted! All original except the factory 216 was swapped out for a 235. Not entirely sure on what engine model I have until I get the codes.

The previous owner already converted this pickup to 12v (although I need to run through everything to make sure it's correct). I already read the "dead engine back to life" section which was super helpful. My question is that it doesn't appear the generator is aligned properly with the fan belt. The generator to me seems too far forward. Before I hook anything up I wanted to address all the wiring, belts, hoses, etc. I am guessing this method worked for him as it ran before putting it in storage but I prefer the belt's be aligned properly.

I thought I remember reading somewhere that a certain bracket can be turned around?

Thanks in advance!
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IMG_3219.jpg (218.6 KB, 171 downloads)


1953 Chevy 3100 4 spd
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Sir Searchalot
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Sure does not look like a fancy 12V generator? looks like a 6V. 12V conversions should include a Delco 10si internally regulated alternator. I can help with that.
The alignment for that generator is to line it up with the garbage can and drop it in with the VR and all wires,


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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'Bolter
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Theory:
Your generator ears/ tabs are sitting in FRONT of the bracket tabs. Should be able to remove the generator and swap it “behind” the generator tabs. Possibly need to space strategically with some washer or what not.

I have also heard or folks putting a piece of all thread between the two bracket tabs to allow for more adjustability. I was in the same spot you were a few years back. I’m slowly learned that you often have to take something apart and then it becomes clear what is the best fix. Do that here and I bet you will figure it out. Just disconnect battery first.

My generator doesn’t line up quite right, either….but it still works. It’s on the list of things to fix.


1951 3100
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by bartamos
Sure does not look like a fancy 12V generator? looks like a 6V. 12V conversions should include a Delco 10si internally regulated alternator. I can help with that.
The alignment for that generator is to line it up with the garbage can and drop it in with the VR and all wires,

Thank you for the reply. I am not 100% sure if he finished the 12v conversion on this pickup or not? He said it ran good when he put it in storage. What are some things I can check to verify 12v? I guess I should probably start the conversion from scratch myself so it's done right. I was wondering about the generator as well as it definitely looks original and possibly 6v.


1953 Chevy 3100 4 spd
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,177
Red dot, center of chest ...
Red dot, center of chest ...
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Measure the battery voltage. Then start the motor and measure it again. If the battery is 12 volts, and it reads about 14v when the motor is running, then you have an alternator. If the battery is 6 volts, you'd better not have a 12v alternator.


Paul Schmehl CI 6
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'Bolter
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Clean it all up they are usually marked 6 or 12 volt and if it is a delco remy it will have a black oval tag for 6 volt or a red tag riveted on the housing for 12 volt .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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'Bolter
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Look at the generator after you wash it. There is a company called PowerGen which makes 6v and 12v AC Generators that exactly match the old 6v and 12v DC generators so that they will bolt up to existing brackets. It could be one of those.

My guess is that it's an original 12 volt DC generator from a later GM vehicle. Just because something is converted to 12v doesn't mean is has to have an AC generator.

Nothing wrong with that since I doubt you have a million electrical devices sucking power from your battery.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 08/18/2022 8:21 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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People who can't fix generators trash 'em. The bolt holes in the bracket that attaches the generator to the block can be slotted with a rat tail file or a die grinder to align the belt properly.
Jerry


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Insomniac
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I have the same setup; 12V generator and firewall mounted regulator.

Only difference that I can see from your picture is that I do not have a spacer between the generator and the bracket.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
People who can't fix generators trash 'em.
Jerry

You have that right.

I've been running the DC Generator in my Cadillac for 20 years and it always works perfectly. Had to replace the brushes a couple times in over 100,000 miles.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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That looks a lot like a 12 v generator
The way the back end steps down in diameter
I just had the pleasure of fixing mine this last week in my 53
Someone upgraded your truck to 12 v but used the same technology to do it.
You can borrow the bracket from the inline 6 that uses that same generator and the belt will line up perfect
However only one bolt hole will match the block and you have to slot or drill the front hole
It’s about exactly one hole diameter off
Photos of my fresh $20 junk yard replacement attached

Mine photo’d is also a 12v “upgrade” generator
-s
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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For what It's worth, my 6V generator has a stepped down back end as well. Lots of different variations from what I'm seeing.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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I would have a long look at the generator mounting brackets. There are differences between the years and car versus truck. Looks like a spacer has been added (red rectangle). I don't think the issue is with the water pump pulley.


Generator versus alternator. 6 volts versus 12 volts. A never ending debate.

If your old Stovebolt has worn piston rings and low compression, which many do, it's harder to start.
Converting to 12 volts can help spin the engine faster, raise the compression a little making it easier to start.
The main benefit is that it's cheaper than rebuilding the engine.
Attachments
Generator Pulley Alignmant 01.jpg (55.46 KB, 118 downloads)


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
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Sir Searchalot
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"Thank you for the reply. I am not 100% sure if he finished the 12v conversion on this pickup or not? He said it ran good when he put it in storage. What are some things I can check to verify 12v? I guess I should probably start the conversion from scratch myself so it's done right. I was wondering about the generator as well as it definitely looks original and possibly 6v."

Yes you should examine all the conversion using our tip section as a guide. Bulbs, battery, charging components, gauges, ballast resistor, coil. Starter OK to leave 6V usually. Wiring if still good condition, OK also.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by buoymaker
I would have a long look at the generator mounting brackets. There are differences between the years and car versus truck. Looks like a spacer has been added (red rectangle). I don't think the issue is with the water pump pulley.


Generator versus alternator. 6 volts versus 12 volts. A never ending debate.

If your old Stovebolt has worn piston rings and low compression, which many do, it's harder to start.
Converting to 12 volts can help spin the engine faster, raise the compression a little making it easier to start.
The main benefit is that it's cheaper than rebuilding the engine.

I am blown away by all the replies and insight on this. Thanks to all.

I noticed that spacer as well, I think I will start by removing that spacer to see if the belt lines up better. It's not too far off but far enough that it bugs me. I would have honestly left the truck 6v but the previous owner has already made the conversion. I might as well just button up the 12v as best I can. At least everything looks to be original!


1953 Chevy 3100 4 spd
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'Bolter
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I know this post is a little late, but I have built a '57 235 to go in place of a 216. Had to use the 216 gen bracket and drill a hole to match the boss on the 235. Using the 216 waterpump and damper pulley evidently means using the 216 generator bracket, too.
Attachments
20220826_164656.jpg (122.48 KB, 51 downloads)
20220826_164549.jpg (159.12 KB, 52 downloads)


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
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'Bolter
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I just did a similar thing. Swapped a 216 for a 57 235. The 235 bracket put the genny too far forward.
What you see in the pic is the 216 mount using the slotted hole in the rear bolt position and drilling a hole for the front bolt. Lines up well.
Attachments
20220826_164549.jpg (159.12 KB, 25 downloads)


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020

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