1952 216 with ac 9832 fuel pump I rebuilt fuel pump and it was fine for awhile but now it’s spitting a little fuel out that little weep hole again Took it apart and diaphragm looks ok so what have I done wrong?
The diaphragm is probably torn. Fuel shouldn't be on that side of the diaphragm.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I took it apart and don't see any holes in it. I wonder if it could be leaking around the metal circles that the plunger rod or whatever it's called is attached to. I rebuilt the pump two years ago so the diaphragm is fairly new. I agree with you- that's the only way for gas to be there. I'll order a new kit and see if that fixes it.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Well, one more issue with the fuel pump. It's working fine and not spitting gas but all of a sudden there is an oil leak. I replaced the gasket and still leaking. I discovered that it was leaking around the little pin that the linkage pivots on. The replacement pin seems to be just a tad smaller. I cleaned the area thoroughly and used Marine Tex to cap both ends where the pin comes through the pump housing. No more oil leak. Maybe somebody can try this in the future if they run in to the same problem
After billions of operations the housing around the pin simply wears (metal fatigue) to the point where the pin is free to move and engine oil weeps out. The wear will continue to get worse if the pin is free to move against the housing.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I wonder if the Marine Tex will bond to the pin and keep it from rotating. Capping the ends is preventing the oil from leaking. If oil is still seeping along the pin it should lubricate it and maybe reduce wear?
I look to what is done for anything that wears like the carburetor throttle valve, rocker arms on the rocker arm assembly, king pins on a straight axle or an engine crankshaft. Consider the process to appraise what is typically done. Consider the search for repair parts. Factor in any machining costs. Also I consider the option of paying a professional to do it for me. All this happens in a couple of minutes (my mind is slowing down as I get older).
In the end, I gave more weight towards reliability, less hassle and cost over appearance (restoring old pump). I bought a new pump (a Carter Clone) from my FLAPS. So far I have enjoyed 5 years of no fuel related issues, doesn't leak and I have a peace of mind. Allows me to spend more time on other aggravating issues that need fixing.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I am looking for a fuel pump for a 1949 GMC 100 1/2T pickup with a 228 engine. Also will be running the fuel with ethanol. Can you let me know where I may be able to purchase a decent one?
Rock Auto has one for $24 which means just about any local parts store will sell them as well for about double that.
The problem is that these new pumps are made in China and of questionable quality.
If you have the original pump, I would buy a rebuild kit for it or have it rebuilt by a company like Then&Now Automotive.
I just sent my 1950 pump to them due to the Chinese piece of crap failing after a year and a few hundred miles.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 07/31/202212:55 AM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Rock Auto only has 3 new pumps for sale for this truck.
1) The Carter M751. 2) The vacuum and fuel pump (dual action) model that no one needs. 3) The GMB 5308540.
Carter: 2018 Union president Dan Arnett said the facility's corporate owner, Crowne Group, had decided to ship older-model fuel pumps (that's us folks) from overseas facilities rather than having those models made in Logansport, Indiana. One guess which foreign company they buy from.
GMB: 2013 Established GMB AUTOMOTIVE NANTONG Co.,Ltd. in China 2014 Established GMB RUS TOGLIATTI LLC. (now GMB RUS AUTOMOTIVE LLC. Russia) 2014 Established GMB ROMANIA AUTO INDUSTRY S.R.L. China, Russia and Romania.
My book says the 1949 GMC 228 fuel pump is an AC-531. Carter M751 was a replacement pump.
When searching for another pump: If either is new old stock, it needs rebuilding with Ethanol tolerant kit. If either has been professionally rebuilt before 1990, it needs rebuilding with Ethanol tolerant kit. If either is well used, which most would be, send it to a professional for rebuilding. If neither is available, convert to an electric pump. Information is available at Stovebolt.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
