The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 46 chevy cab conversion

Hi all, I'm looking for information on what all is involved with converting a 1946 1/2 ton Chevy truck cab into a COE cab and also converting the doors into COE doors. Long story short, I have a 46 COE that the previous owner chopped 3 inches and stretched the cab 10 inches to make an "extended cab". I think there would be much less work involved by replacing the cab than trying to "un-chop and un-stretch" the cab and I want it to be the original sized cab. I wish they would have left the cab alone and saved all of the original parts. I do have a set of COE rocker panels but is there any other parts that would need to be changed in order to make this work? From what limited information I've been able to find, the cabs are the same dimensions with only a few differences between them. Rocker panels, doors, and the side air vents are all that I'm aware of.

Thanks

I wouldn't cut a good 1/2 ton cab to use as donor parts.
Cutting and uniting long sections of body metal is akin to artist level metal sculpting to make it look good.

The COE door is rounded at the bottom and has at least one hinge in a different location on the cowl.

I believe 1941-47 COE cabs may be the same dimensions. Maybe find someone wanting a stretch and do a cab trade.

Agree with buoymaker. Leave it alone. There are folks who would want a chop and lengthened COE. Use the money to buy a stock COE. To undo that will be a tragic nightmare that you will never finish.

Repair panels are NOT available for COE cabs like they are standard cabs. I agree fully with bartamos and buoymaker. Either approach (un-chop and un-stretch the cab you have or converting a standard cab to COE) would be a monstrous effort. You'd wind up with more money in either approach than finding another truck.

Maybe I’m being misunderstood. I don’t want to cut anything. All I want to do is replace the cab. The only cutting would be to the doors to make a 1/2 ton pair of doors “COE” doors. But maybe I am mistaken at what all it would take to swap these cabs. Perhaps the easiest thing to do is find someone who is interested in a chopped and stretched cab that would want to trade. I would be open to that idea.

What they're trying to tell you is DO NOT buy a 1/2 cab and try to turn it into a COE cab. Find a COE cab. Perhaps you can find someone who has one and would like to swap you for your lengthened cab.

Agree with baldeagle. You did mention unchop/unstretch as one thought. Albeit not easy as you said.
So No conversion, no unchop. Buy an original COE cab. It should fit right on the frame if it has not been chopped or stretched or modified.

Offer it for trade or sale. Waiting for trade is a long shot. Sell it first. Then search for a COE cab or a COE truck and drag it home.
You can decide the door thing AFTER you get a stock donor COE. FORGET that part for now.

Lots of real big rigs that no one wants with COE cabs, sitting around. Just take the cab and let the seller keep the rest. Can't haul a 40 foot dually frame home.

Pix on the internet show doors not the same. Totally different. 1/2T vs COE.

Even that would be a major undertaking. Are the COE doors missing in action? It would be much easier to find a pair of COE doors. Even ones in bad shape would be easier to fix than to convert standard doors to COE. Unless there's a dominant reason to do that, take the easy way and buy what fits. Just my opinion.

I have all the parts, including the doors. The doors, along with the cab, have been chopped 3 inches. So the general consensus is to find an unmolested COE cab rather than try to fix what I have? I’m also open to the idea of another COE cab but finding one has been a problem. If y’all know where a cab is I’d be interested. I would also be interested in a trade but agree that might take a while to work out.

EvenX82,

I did a quick search on "duckduckgo" search engine (one of the few that does not track your information and searches) using "1946 Chevy COE".
Came back with a variety of results, with most of people selling entire trucks and not just cabs. Found in various conditions (restored, un-restored, modified) in the states of Louisiana, Missouri, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Arizona, Idaho etc. Best bet may be to find/acquire such a truck and part remainder to help with the cost (if that is a concern). I will keep my eyes peeled for you as I regularly search the web for things our community may need/want.

Good luck in your search!

Keep all the parts. You have a complex problem and it's best to do what you are doing, asking questions.

Most chops cut out a section of the door and cab posts and weld back together. Going back the other way is X2 difficult. At the factory, the cab roof and cowl are joined (welded) together by a section (or just top or bottom) of windshield post and then leaded. Structurally integrity of the cab post is more important than the door posts. A body shop traditionally reconstructs or rebuilds at the same factory seam or joint. If obtaining an unmodified COE cab is not possible, I would find a 1/2 ton or big truck solo cab with floor, cab corners, bottom cowls that has rust through issues and use this as a donor. Even at that, these cabs can be hard to find in any condition. As an idea, not a recommendation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384853677647. However, this is work for a professional bodyman (autobody person) not a unexperienced DIYer. All of this is assuming the COE has the same metal thickness and contour. Most of the autobody repairers today may not have the experience and knowledge to fix an old truck so this needs to factor-in to your investigations.

Where I live, the door bottoms of old unused trucks, 1/2 ton and bigger, develop rust rot. The bottom weep holes clog up (leaves, pine needles etc.) and the rain water pools. It is common for them to need a bottom section replacement so a conversion to a COE door may work if the surrounding metal is still good. You still have to hand-fashion the needed COE pieces. Again a professional is needed.

From 1942 to 1945, car and truck production went entirely to the war (WW2) effort. You may want to ask questions at the military restoration websites. Expect to acquire burning eardrums and let the negative comments happen. Once you start, don't give up like some do.

Thanks for all of the responses. I knew this topic would bring on a lot of negative feedback and I understand that my situation is complex and not at all easy. I know the easiest solution would be to find another COE cab and replace the one I have. In an ideal world that is what I would do. However, I find this solution to be the least likely to happen because of the amount of money involved with buying another COE cab and their rarity in my part of the country. Yes, I could have one trailered across the country, but that’s another expense. I also understand that rebuilding these trucks takes a considerable amount of money and I’m not arguing that. However, I am trying to be as resourceful as I can be and work with what I have.

You haven’t told us your paint/body skill level. I think the general consensus is the 1/2 ton regular cabs are different enough to make it quite a challenge to make it work. Can of worms!

Evenx82 ... Welcome to our site, BTW. We're glad you came in and asked your question. I hope we can help you get to where you want to be on your project. I hope you aren't feeling oppressed or attacked here ...

I started this site 26 years ago. I've seen a lot of projects roll across these "pages." Also, as I scan the user names above, all of whom I've known now for years, I see easily two centuries of experience (maybe 3 ... ?) messing with these old trucks including extensive body work. A *lot* of "been there, done that" in the words above.

Unfortunately, we have seen a lot of projects get abandoned or sold off after the owner proceeded down a path the greybeards recommended against. We're just trying to help you avoid that by gently pointing out that what one may think or want to be so, may not actually be.

To be blunt, and to repeat the words above, while it may seem like it makes more financial sense to work with what you have, we are telling you (based on the approximately 3 centuries worth of experience dealing with these projects) that it isn't. a year from now, you will find that even buying a whole truck just for the cab and having it shipped, is a far better investment of time and money than getting yourself into a quagmire of autobody work that even the experts here wouldn't attempt, and that based on my experience dealing with people on this site, will most likely end in frustration and failure.

We don't want to see that happen. Again.

Every one here is telling you that proceeding with your preferred plan is not a good plan. Maybe that should tell you something? So please ask yourself if you are truly seeking advice and guidance, or just validation of your own preferred path... I ask this with all the brotherly compassion I can muster. We're not ganging up on you, just trying to help. If you decide to proceed with the parts you have on hand, then that will be that and we will support you all the way. But there may be only so much we can do.

Thanks for listening. We hope we can be of further assistance.

Regards,
John

Was not going to post this, but after John, I now need to express some of what he is saying....and said it quite well. Here is what I was going to say. This is NOT aimed at you but needs mentioned in this context.

There is no "negative feedback" here in this thread. I know you did not mean it like it sounds. I know we don't mean it like it may sound. We see an inquiry. We see an implied question or an actual question. A request for feedback. A person wondering about a mod or install, etc. After awhile we get a feel for your actual preference and you get a feel for our experiences and opinions. If a person does not like the opinion, it's not negative feedback. It's just feedback with all good intensions. Once we have given all the pro's and con's, we do join with you to help you accomplish your final decision.

A true negative feedback, which we see now and again, is using personal words like "dumb idea" "donkey" "no one listens to my advice" and jokes about the other advice. Even that is just a case of too much passion for "there's only one way". None of that here.
We only have your words to interpret, no pics, can't see it, smell it, hear it, test it, etc. So we we interpolate. You do the same with our comments. It's great to have you here and trusting Stovebolt to help. You are like us, hard working, good understanding, not a big budget and wanting to build Chevy trucks. All is good.

You can now start a new post in the appropriate section to get a plan for the surgery. Sheet metal guys, body guys, welders, fabricators will help. Be sure to advise them you been thru the decision process here already. Don't be afraid to change your mind or rethink anything every so often. That's what a smart person does.

Thanks all. I mean no disrespect at all and honestly do value everyone’s opinions that have commented. I don’t want anyone to think that I’m just here for validation of my ideas. That’s why I posted my question here because y’all are way more knowledgeable on this subject than I am and I am looking for guidance. Y’all’s opinions and suggestions have brought things to my attention that I was not aware of. I want this build to be done right but also in the most economical sense.

As far as my skill sets are concerned, I’m a pretty decent mechanic/fabricator and have some welding skills. I’m by no means a body/paint guy but have several friends that have been in that business for years ( years meaning 20+) that would be willing to help me out if need be.

As much as it “takes the wind outta my sails”, I trust y’all’s judgement in saying that I should find another cab. I will continue to search for another cab and if anyone comes across one please let me know.

I’m sure I have missed the instructions on this, but how do I post some pics? I would like to show y’all what I’m working with. Plus, anyone that sees it may be interested in buying or trading.

First, buying and selling in the Garage Forums is against the rules. That being said, instructions for posting photos are in the left margin of every page. If your using your phone as a computer your on your own for photos.

On your phone use the Full Editor button to open a new reply screen.
scroll down below the emojis and you will see a paper clip beside 'Attachment Manager' in blue type.
Click the 'Attachment Manager' button.
This will allow you to then select a photo to put into your reply.

Here are a few pics

How about posting more details on the truck. Looks like an interesting build.

Thought I would throw my 2 cents in, today I had some spare time so I broke out my tape and stepped outside my shop where I have a 41 Coe and a 45 GMC panel truck sitting side by side. The cabs at the firewall are the same as far as I can tell. There is a cowl vent on the Coe none on the standard cab, the doors appear to be the same except the Coe has the fender cutouts otherwise the doors are the same, the hinges are the same. Correction, the panel door is different than a standard cab in that the top of the door has styling to match the panel. The cab floor is different than a standard cab because of the doghouse for the engine, there is no in cab gas tank and the seat base is different. The mounting for the cab looks the same as a standard cab with the 4 per side mounting bolts and springs in the rear. Coe cab has the grab bars that are reinforced inside. Dave

It’s a 46 Chevy COE. I bought it just like this. It was a running/driving truck up until earlier this year but the engine seized up. Previous owner did the chop and stretch, 3 inch chop and 10 inch stretch. It has, what I was told, a GM 350 crate motor and a 700r4 trans. Original frame with what appears to be an early 70’s suburban or c10 crossmember and IFS setup. Chevelle rear end with unknown gear ratio and 4 link with coil overs. Had a old vintage air ac/heat/defrost evap core in it but it’s junk and needs replacing. Has a lot of extra parts that came with the truck including all of the chrome grill bars.
I had intentions of turning it into a pickup with a regular bed on it rather than a hauler or flatbed. There’s nothing wrong with the sheet metal at all, just personal preference as to why I want a regular cab instead of this. It also came with a title.

I think the extension change from original is subtle enough that most public viewers wouldn't notice. A COE purist would quickly zero-in on it. If you are not going 100% original, I would work with it as it is. I hate to say it but the windshield is a real hack job. After a wreck or reconstruction, getting the windshield to fit well can be a pistol. Unfortunately the center division was removed so it makes it even more difficult to deal with.

I watched 2 men put a new reproduction floor in a 65 Chevy 1/2 ton. There was a lot of hand trimming to make it a good fit. They used a low power MIG welder and made small welds then switched to the opposite side for more small welds. You have to be careful not to overheat the metal to prevent warpage. A little bit of grinding to get the weld somewhat flat and appear uniform. An all day job. The weld quality was strong but it was obvious it had been welded. My point is, labor cost is where the money goes. A shop can't afford to put their best welder on a job where the owner is, let's say, frugal. This is when they bring out the trainee.

My ideal “vision” for the truck would be a pretty close to 100% original body with late model drivetrain. For example, I want the windshield to crank in/out and work properly, cowl vent and side vents to work, all original trim, etc. With this cab, I do not have the windshield frame, windshield regulator and handle, even the dash doesn’t appear to be the stock dash. I have been collecting parts to make it original, but because of the chop/stretch, I’m unsure if it’ll ever fit/work correctly. The windshield glass currently in the truck has since been removed without damage and was just glued in place after the chop. I guess, in a sense, I’m kind of that “purist” you speak of when it comes to the body of the truck. Most people see such a cool looking truck but all I can see is the chop and stretch and it bugs me lol.

Homer52, thanks for this information and taking the time to measure everything!

Here is a piece of trivia info. With 1946 and older GM trucks you have cab space for a driver, floor shifter, floor parking brake lever and a passenger (yep, sardines in a tin can). Trucks were made for work and economical operation. Comfort was secondary. One of the proud selling points of the new AD truck line was room for 3 men. You could take another man out to the jobsite and save money on gasoline. It also meant you now had space in the cab if there wasn't a third person. You know, having that extra space behind the bench seat can have it's advantages.

I'm done preaching.

With all new weatherstripping and everything, did the windshield leak badly on these trucks since they cranked in and out?

FWIW, and to show I'm not sulking (Bart!! BTW, I was so mad, I rearranged everything ...) ...

FWIW, the crank out windshield on my '39 (same basic cab design, same windshield design as your COE), after all new rubber everything, did not leak as I recall ... Billy Marlow's '46 has been in the rain a time or 10, maybe he's following along and can answer...

I am way late to this convo but I have to agree with a lot of what has been said already. I think taking a stock door and making it a COE door and then making all the necessary changes to the door opening, rockers, etc. would be Kindig fabricators territory. The inner door structure would have to all be hand fabricated and really would take experience to get all the door gaps and adjustments correct. On my cab, there was a little bit of rust where the front of the rocker connects to the cab, I believe when this was repaired by the well lubricated body man that helped me out, he did not get it right. I have never been happy with the door gaps on my truck.
Windshield-I rebuilt mine years ago including new glass, weather-stripping, the hand crank etc. I have never had a leak and it still operates great.
Cab size-ask Hambone about the size of my COE cab in a parade in Leonardtown MD ...in 95 degree summer heat....lets just say we had no choice but to bond that day.
As far as a replacement cab, my bet with some serious digging and searching, you can find one without too much difficulty. Would you consider selling the truck you have and starting fresh? There is a guy on you tube, Iron City Garage I think that is dragging old iron home form across the Midwest. He does not seem to have any trouble find trucks. There are still junk yards out west that have great old iron in them and I still see a '46 coe cab or even a complete truck on Ebay from time to time. If you are a purist, I think you would really end up fighting that cab to get it even close to original and even then, might not be happy with it. I don't know if I would classify myself as a purist but am still glad to this day that I restored my cabover close to stock, even it is speed handicapped.
I try not to be a "you should do this" kind of person and I know what it is like to have folks disagree with you plan but maybe at least explore a plan B in this case.
Good luck which ever way you end up going.

From what I'm seeing, you have a truck that would be very easy to sell. The stretched cab might even make it more desirable to a hot-rodder. I suggest that you don't get in a hurry and keep looking for a replacement. They're not as easy to find as they were 20 years ago, but they are still out there.

Good luck.

John

I have a 46 2-ton and a 42 or 46 COE sitting at my shop. I have owned probably ten of these style of big trucks. From everything I can see and have seen, I do think the cabs on all have been the same and I believe they are the same as all the 1/2 through 2 ton trucks of the Art Deco period. The doors on the COE appear to have been "modified" at the factory to accept the fender cut out.

I am in Indianapolis,In. and would be glad to show you in person or take some measurements to verify.