The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Disc brake conversion

1950 ,want to do the front disc brake conversion, what kit do you recommend, 6 lug. Keeping the rear drum.

CPP makes a kit.

https://www.classicperform.com/

CPP makes some good brakes. There are others.
You have to first realize the questions you need to ask and receive answers, before purchasing a kit.

For example, look at this kit:

https://www.classicparts.com/1947-5...e-w_-Plain-Rotors/productinfo/71-974C6/#
https://www.classicparts.com/1941-57-Roller-Bearing-Upgrade-Kit-1_2-Ton/productinfo/73-061K/

* 12 inch rotor
* GM full-floating caliper
* Master cylinder with booster for disc front and drum rear brakes, configuration mounts in the stock location (under the floorboard)
* Requires cutting a new hole in the floorboard to check and fill master cylinder fluid level

Note:
* Will not work with the standard transmission clutch linkage when using the brake booster
* Recommend upgrading the stock ball bearings to the tapered roller bearings when using this kit
* Some stock wheels may rub the caliper. It may be necessary to use a spacer. May not work with original rims
* 1947-50 trucks may need to drill out lower spindle hole from 7/16" to 1/2"
* New brakes lines not included

Be aware that many of the kits that are offered the calipers will not clear the stock wheels. If the supplier doesn't know, go somewhere else. There are numerous kits available from aftermarket sources. Also, there are probably dozens of posts on this site on this very subject. Read the posts and obtain a good understanding of what is available and who provides the best technical services. Many of these suppliers just ship out parts and are of no help when you have a problem.
Fred

Most every vender says that the master with booster will not work with a manual transmission yet others claim you will need to change or modify you rear transmission mount.

Most trucks from this era were manual transmissions, so it makes no sense to me why they don’t make one for standards.

I know that many ‘bolters on this site have installed power disc brakes on manual transmissions, with the master still under the floor boards, so have two questions for these ‘bolters.

1) What is the actual issue with the CCP brand, that they say its for automatics only.
2) What are some of the mods that will make this work?


I plan on upgrading my brakes, so to me this post is right up my alley.

I think the statement (interference with clutch or manual transmission linkage) is a blanket coverage protection for the supplier/vendor. In other words, "legal mumbo jumbo" to do your homework before you buy. They don't want to get sued for brake failure due to a botched installation. The attached picture is an extreme example of the shifter moved forward (Patrick's shifter) on a Saginaw 4 speed and the booster/brake bracket slotted to move the assembly against the truck frame.

I don’t know if this helps because my truck and my truck is a 46 half ton. I got my brakes from ECI. I had my straight axle and wanted disc and they were the only company that advertised disc for my truck. Wheel Smith will modify wheels to fit your needs.

Where does it say a booster and master cylinder has to be mounted in factory location? This unit in my 37 Buick is moved back 19" with a longer push rod from pedal to booster. We did a 30 Plymouth with an IRS that the brake unit was BEHIND then rear axle. Had a bell crank at front that reversed push to pull and a second at the rear that converted back. We did a 40 Ford coupe that had the booster/mc in the TRUNK. Do a search on "remote mount p/b". All the clearance needed for a remote mount unit is for a 1/4" brake line.

This keeps coming up and there is some confusion.

One thought on the manual transmission linkage clearance is ᠁᠁they are talking about a modern manual like the picture above. Same goes for some automatic transmission notation or warnings. Obviously a modern automatic might be wider than the original manual trans.

Original OEM 3-4 speeds appear to have NO clearance issue. 4 speed the speed cable might need a right angle adapter for better routing.

Same goes for transmission rear cross member. Discussed many times prior. To the point where the shop manual is in conflict whether all models and all years even got a rear cross member. Then the truck where the cross member was lost 20-40years ago with no ill effects.

Same for caliper clearance very dependent on rim off set᠁᠁᠁but 14” not likely to clear, 15” some might work, 16” almost for sure no problem. My truck has 16” new steel rims from etrailer.com.

One other issue where the caliper might just touch the axle on a full lock turn. This is also a non issue as if happens and your really concerned ᠁᠁.you slightly modify the parts. If you think all the parts and all the variables involved with installing modern parts on 70 year old truck should be covered by the vendor᠁᠁᠁HALF THE FUN is making it work by some DIY innovation and thought.

I installed CCP kit with hubs and bearing kit years back. Very pleased with the install and function. I drilled a second hole in the floor. Exacting the same size as the orginal for easy access to fluid check. Stock GM. 228 4 speed SM420

I ran with no rear cross member for years. On a whim added an aftermarket cross member ( start a thread with pics) found no difference in operation. Some kits mention cross member must be modified. Again this might weasel words to cover modern driveline.

As for clutch linkage. I used the stock pedals. No interference or conflict. On mine the brake master rod was offset to the left by about an inch. I made a spacer to offset the rod ᠁..so its now a direct in line shot.

Thank you Evan and Showkey for your insight. Thats exactly what I was looking to hear. I’ll be purchasing a CCP kit shortly.


Just tapping into this wealth of knowledge before spending close to a grand and finding out it isn’t going to work.

Originally Posted by showkey
If you think all the parts and all the variables involved with installing modern parts on 70 year old truck should be covered by the vendor᠁᠁᠁HALF THE FUN is making it work by some DIY innovation and thought.

The above comment was in response to comment below᠁᠁..because with all the variables, the guy on the technical assistance phone will have no idea what the customer parts are. Expecting that vendor or suppliers answer with any thing more than guess is asking to much.

Be aware that many of the kits that are offered the calipers will not clear the stock wheels. If the supplier doesn't know, go somewhere else.

Pics of the upgrade:

Thanks for the pictures. What size rims and tires are you running?

Front
BF Goodrich Touring T/A. 215/65-16 on etrailer rims

Rear
Same rims but 215/85-16 for better gear ratio

3.55 rear diff.
Lowered 2.5 all around
Stock drive line GMC 228 4 speed

Pic of front hub upgrade:

Nice! Did you use the spacers that come with the kit?

Just for the benefit of others who may read this post.
In the past it was said you shouldn't use trailer rims on a truck or car.
Also I believe the rim has to be DOT approved for its application trailer or car/truck or both.
Would you please add an etrailer link to the rim you used and add comments.
It would be appreciated.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/Dexstar/AM20758.html


Have no concerns with these rims. Made in the USA.
Compared to 70 year old rusting pitted rims᠁᠁᠁new powder coated rims win every time.
Meets DOT standards.


link to first Q&A where the rims were being used on newer Chev pickup


https://www.etrailer.com/question-284741.html


Could Dexstar Conventional Wheel # AM20758 Fit 1987 Chevy Silverado V10 K10 4x4

Question:
Do these wheels fit a 1987 Silverado 4x4 pick up. I’ve been looking for a set that accepts dog dish hub caps. Thanks,
asked by: James B
Expert Reply:
Typically, trailer wheels will not work on a vehicle but if you have a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern on your hub and need 16 inch wheels then the # AM20758 may work great for you.

Another thing to make sure of is if you have an offset on your wheels. The # AM20758 has a zero offset meaning the tire is evenly spaced over the center of the wheel.

What kind of hub caps do you use on those?