The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1958 GMC 370

I recently bought a 1958 GMC 370 stub nose at an auction. I had it delivered. It was missing one of the front tires. I noticed that that hub does not rotate. I bought a book but the book is not very good at explaining anything (See photo). My question is how to remove the brake drum. I removed the front cover removed the wheel nut. Beat on the drum with a hamer but no go. My next thought was to try to get a puller. The next idea was to cut all the small bolt that hold the drum to hub(See Photo). Then hopefully be able to free up the hub. But would like any thoughts from people who know these trucks. Also is there a beter shop manual out there.

Put the tire back on and rock the truck to try and break it free after you back off the shoe adjusters...I personally wouldn't cut the hub to drum bolts. You can fill the drum with water through any hole in the backing plate to lubricate things as you rock it and hit with a BH. If rocking it back and forth hooked to a truck or tractor doesn't work I'd unbolt the wheel cylinders and remove everything but the backing plate.

Good luck!

Mike B

so I turned the spring bolts (brake adjuster) counter clock wise. my book does not say to turn them clock wise or counter clock wise. also are the hubs suposed to have oil or grease to lub the bearings.

Hy Roberts Big Hous, welcome, the lube for most trucks of that era was grease for the front wheel bearings. Mike B has given you excellent advice on how to break the drum free from the brake linings. If you do try dragging the truck to break the drum free, do it on a solid surface like asphalt or concrete, gravel won't do it, good luck.

Did you try turning the adjusters the opposite way to see if that loosened it up? If your still not sure which way to go, play with the other side that does turn until you have it figured out...without seeing what you have it's hard to give good advise.

Mike B

thank you for all the great advise. dont have access to asphalt. But when we were unloading it off the trailer. (no wheel) we dragged it off the trailer and to would not budge at all. Im guessing this is what side lined the truck 40 years ago. It doesnt look like anyone has been inside the hub since it was parked.
1. Is there a good service manual for 58 GMC 370?
2. Where is a good place to buy parts?( mostly see stuff for 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck)

You don't have any leverage with the wheel off...

Keep an eye on eBay for manuals...

There isn't a retail store for your truck parts. If you need mechanical parts try NAPA, Rock Auto and eBay. For cab interior parts, many are the same as the pickups, if not try eBay. Sheet metal, you're on your own. And as always you can place a "wanted" ad on the Stovebolt to see if someone here can help!

Mike B

Roberts,

I have a ‘55 370 conventional, 18,000 gross, rear axle and front hubs and steering gear, but 5/10 lug wheels. Added 5/10 lug front disc brake hubs/spindles from GM P-3500 rear D-80 w/ disc brake, 5/10 lug axle to match front.

Tubeless wheels exist for your 6 lug bolt pattern.

Ed

I was able to buy a 8 in puller from Harbor Freight and was able to get the hub off. So I think now I should be able to remove break shoes and get this thing to roll. Tonight Im going to try to air up tires pull the plugs and put some transmission fluid in the cylinder. Hopefully going to try to roll the engine over in a few day.

WARNING! NEVER- - - - -EVER- - - - -TRY TO AIR UP A FLAT TUBE TYPE TIRE ON A SECTIONAL WHEEL! Those rims have a nasty habit of separating- - - -volently- - - -if the relationship of the parts has been didturbed by the tire going flat. Even a noticeably bulged sidewall on a tire that's not completely flat can cause problems. The only somewhat safe way to add air to a very low tube type tire is to remove the wheel, lay it flat on the ground, and wrap a heavy chain through the hand holes in the rim. I use a clip on air chuck and a long hose to be far away from the rim while doing that.
Jerry

See this Tech Tip on Split Wheel Rims.

Split Rim wheels" -- These wheels should be avoided. This scan from the 1949 Budd Wheel catalog illustrates the different wheel types. The dangerous 2-piece "split rim" (also know as the "widow maker") is the Firestone Type RH-5. The dominant feature of the RH-5 is the attachment of its halves near the wheel's center line. This connection point has an overlapping raised band around the inside of the wheel. This band will be seen on all types of RH-5 wheels, whether Budd style or traditional drop-center light-truck wheels. These wheels can be hard to identify because you can’t really see how they are made while assembled. It’s easier to identify them by eliminating the other possible wheel types. They are not "Locking Ring," "2-Piece" or "3-Piece Wheels" because they don’t have an easily identifiable ring or rings on one side (lip) of the wheel. They are not singe piece tubeless wheels because they do not have a dropped center (where the tire bead goes to allow you to work it over the rim for installation or removal). RH-5 wheels became popular in the late '40's (with manufacturers...) and were used extensively throughout the '50's and '60's. They were last available from Budd in 1972 and from Kelsey-Hayes in 1976. Due to their design, they have not aged well.