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I see that on your boxing plates that you have a radius for a rack and pinion, Are going to modify the original crossmember for this or just remove it?

If I am understanding your question....the kit comes with a new crossmember that accommodates a new rack and pinion. The new rack bolts to the new crossmember and sits behind and clears the existing crossmember under the radiator....if that makes sense. The notches in the boxing plates require the frame rails to be notched to clear the new rack. The notch is close to the radiator crossmember but it does barely clear.

CROSSMEMBER INSTALLATION

While I was mulling over the crossmember location, I decided go ahead and clean the area of the frame and assemble the front suspension to the crossmember prior to even tack welding it into place.

With the rear suspension at ride height, the frame leveled and the front frame at ride height it was evident that the crossmember needed to be notched deeper (1-7/8 additional) in order to get the front suspension at the proper position (height) relative to the frame. The instructions mentioned that the crossmember may need some trimming but this seemed more than a little...so I called Scott's tech to confirm. I really didn't get a warm fuzzy on their answers so I just went with my gut feel and located the crossmember up and down the additional 1-7/8” as my measurements indicated. Apparently their system is set-up to run with about a 6-1/2” ride height whereas I am shooting for a 4-1/2 to 5” ride height. I was hoping this wouldn't create too many downstream issues.

So I bit the bullet and went ahead tacked it in place than fully welded it. Time will tell if it is correct but I quadruple checked my numbers and feel pretty good about it.

CROSSMEMBER INSTALLATION PICS

Adjustable coilovers for more options down the road?

I doubt it. The airbags will hopefully do what I want.

BOXING FWD FRAME

With the front crossmember installed it was time to box the frame near the crossmember. The kit came with some pre-cut box plates but they needed a little massaging since the box plates were trimmed to fit.

The kit also required a c-notch in the forward portion of the frame to clear the rack and pinion. With the crossmember raised relative to the frame I was concerned that the c-notch provided would not be deep enough but after checking it 3 or 4 times it fit using the provided C-notch closeouts. I also noticed that crossmember was transitioning into the frame in a way that I didn't really care for. I have always followed the rule “if in doubt, make it stout”.....so I decided to fab some internal gussets within the boxed frame to align with the crossmember walls. I had some 3/16” thick plate that I made these full depth gussets/braces out of and installed them prior to welding on the boxing plates. I then drilled some holes in the boxing plates aligned with the edge of the gussets so I could plugweld the boxing plate and gussets together along the boxed out edge of the internal gussets.

Next I sprayed the inside with weld-thru primer, welded the boxing plates totally and sanded/ground down the welds and primered the installation.

BOXING FWD FRAME PICS

CROSSMEMBER GUSSET & SWAY BAR

Once the crossmember was boxed I noticed that I did not like the thinned portion of the crossmember right above the frame interface. If the crossmember was installed at the intended position (prior to me notching it additionally) then the thinner portion would have dropped of as the frame kicked it but now since it stood proud of the frame, it looked too thin.

I had some square tubing that I was able to fab some gussets to reinforce this area. I stripped the finish in this area and welded those in to beef up this local area.

I also noticed that with the crossmember relocated the sway bar was pointing up a bit more than what I wanted. To correct this I notched the front of the frame and relocated the sway bar mount upwards approx 2” to better level the sway bar.

When I eventually have the frame sandblasted I will go back and reweld a few areas that were hard to get to and clean up everything but this will hold for now.

Looking at your picture of your boxing, I notice that you have a stress concentration that you should address.
At the red arrow, you have a bracket for mounting something on the top of the frame, and your boxing plate is cut at right angles to the frame flanges. That makes a spot where the frame goes from stiff to flexible suddenly. The boxing plate should taper toward the flanges to add some flexibility where the boxing plate stops. I drew in a yellow outline where the edge of the boxing plate should be.

Thanks for the heads-up. Fortunately the plan is to continue boxing the frame aft of this edge (to a point beyond the trans mount interface). I will fishmouth the aft edge then.

IFS ASSEMBLY

After the frame was modified then assembling the IFS components was the next step. Not much to describe here since it was as simple as following the instructions.... so I'll just post some pics.

IFS ASSEMBLY PICS

FRONT SHEETMETAL

After the IFS was complete then I decided that I needed to hang some of the front sheetmetal prior to installing the engine. Although I had reworked some the front metal to repair some of the rust, it hasn't been assembled to the frame and body since the panel truck first arrived. So this was a good time to also do a rough overview of how everything was fitting up.

Due to the new IFS, the inner fenderwells needed to be trimmed quite a bit to clear new geometry. I may go back and reinforce these cutouts a bit when I disassemble it but for now I'll just let them go as is. After trimming these pieces the front sheetmetal went on pretty nicely. The only issue that I saw was that the RH fender was sitting a little lower than what it should. I looked on the bottom side, where it wrapped around the outer cowl panel, and there was a gap between the fender and the cowl panel. I think if I slot some of the holes so the fender can slide up and flush on the bottom-side then the fender would be better positioned. I wrote that on my punch list of things-to-do when I disassemble it.

FRONT SHEETMETAL PICS

ENGINE PLACEMENT

With the front sheetmetal in place, the next task was to locate the engine and the engine mounts. Since the plan is to eventually run a first gen small block (327 cid) and I don't have the engine completed (or even started) yet, I needed a dummy block to help with this task. The panel truck came to me with a straight 6 and a 700R4. Luckily I still kept the engine and trans out of the '81 Z28 that I pulled a few years ago so I swapped out the Turbo 350 to the 700R4 and used that engine to rig the assembly in place.

To get the engine in, I went ahead and hacked out the old stock crossmember near the trans on the frame so the new AT would clear. After shoehorning the engine and trans roughly in place, I measured everything (about 10x) and kept tweaking it until I got it centered in the frame with the tailshaft on the trans pointed down about 3 degrees to match the rearend (pointed up 3 degrees). I can dial in the rearend pinion angle to match the engine using the 4 bar adjustment should it settle or move a bit but they are currently within 0.2 degrees of each other (per my digital level).

There were a few concerns I kept thinking of when positioning the engine. First, since I move the IFS crossmember up relative to the framerails I was worried that the engine may need to be moved up so much to clear the rack and pinion and crossmember itself that the trans tunnel I installed may hit. Luckily it appeared to be ok.

The other issue that I kept an eye on was maintaining as much clearance as possible to the radiator while preserving clearance for the valve covers and distributor. The mock-up engine has a long water pump and I plan on using a short water pump on the SBC so the clearance will be better than what it currently shows but as it sits right now the front face of the engine block (surface of the timing cover) is a little over 10 inches from the face of the radiator. Hopefully I can corral a pulley system and an electric fan within this area.

Once the engine was positioned properly, I tack welded the engine tabs to the frame to lock in the position. I was able to use a 2x4 across the frame to temp support the back of the transmission. When I remove the body from the frame, I will go back and final weld the engine tabs (as well as other partial welds), remove the rest of the hacked out crossmember and box the frame, and fab a trans crossmember. I also took some measurements so that once the body is off the frame then I can go ahead and finish clearing the way for the driveshaft by hooping the stock aft crossmember as well as the 4 bar link lateral mount on the rear suspension.

But before I remove the body, I want to get some headers and start figuring out how to route the steering linkage since removing the body is a pain

ENGINE PLACEMENT PICS

ENGINE PLACEMENT PICS CON'T

Just wow, great build and so creative! Looking forward to following along with you!

HEADERS

With the engine and trans mounted the next hurdle was finding a set of headers that would fit. The headers or exhaust manifolds need to clear the frame and inner fenderwells and allow a path for the steering linkage. After a ton of time looking at block huggers, shorties and other manifolds and headers in pictures on the internet I decided to tryout the Patriot shorty headers and see how they fit. I bought the painted headers so if I have to modify them then I wouldn't be destroying a finish. I will eventually have them ceramic coated once they are final fitted.

I temp bolted them to the engine and as expected, the RH side looks real good and the LH side looks promising with some trimming of the inner fenderwell in a local area. I used a 3/4” wooden dowel to eyeball the path of the steering linkage but before I can claim victory I need to further develop the steering linkage to make sure it or the headers don't need tweaked. So next up is the steering linkage and column.

STEERING LINKAGE AND COLUMN

With the headers temp bolted in then that gives me a better idea where the steering linkage needs to be routed. The Patriot shorties have a pretty good gap in the LH header for the steering to pass thru so that is what I will shoot for when connecting to the IFS rack and pinion. My plan is to use the existing steering column and steering wheel but modify the column to connect to the rack and pinion.

The first order of business was to cut the steering column free of the stock steering box and remove and retain it and the center shaft. Once the column was cut it was pretty rusty so I stripped it down (remove bearings and such) to clean it up. I used some PVC pipe that I had laying around and bonded in a cap and created a vinegar bath to soak it in to de-rust it.

While the column was soaking then I started looking at what it would take to get this all to work. I purchased two steering u-joints from Borgeson...one with ¾” double D on both ends and one with a double D on one end and a splined end to match the rack and pinion shaft. I also bought a stock new upper bearing for the steering column as well as an aftermarket bearing designed to be pressed into the open end of the column once I determine where to trim the column. It also looks like I may need to take the column to a machine shop and have them open up the ID a few thousands to get a good press-fit on the lower bearing...but I'll deal with that later (one headache at a time). I will also need to have the steering shaft cut and a double D end flats machined into it to mate with the U-joint.

After I had the two U-joints in hand, I again used my ¾ dia wood dowel rod (with flats cut into it with a utility knife) to help sight the steering linkage routing. In trying to connect the rack and pinion to the end of the column with a straight shaft, the shaft was contacting the header tube that ran closest to the block but there was room outboard if I could somehow move the column over (to the left).

I played around with solving this issue, looking at it from various methods (i.e. adding an intermediate link and support, etc). I finally settled on doing two things to be able to utilize a single shaft. First, I need to trim the end of the column about 1” to get the u-joint up a little higher to clear the headers and give me a better angle for the connection. I'll have the machine shop do this when they open up the ID. Second, I need to move the firewall penetration outboard (to the left) about 3/8 to 1/2” inches. This will allow the shaft to clear to header tube next to the block. The stock steering is kicked inboard a bit so this will make it more parallel to the truck centerline. I will probably cut it out and slide it to where it needs to be and then tack it in place and do the final welding when the body is removed from the frame again.

(Note: This brings the project up to realtime. This is where it currently sits so the posts and progress will slow down a bit since I usually do the bulk of my work in the fall and winter...but my plan is to take baby steps and keep moving the project forward during the short term. My goal is to get the truck onto its wheels by the end of summer or early fall.)

STEERING WHEEL

I haven't posted in a bit because the progress has been slowed considerably. I started a new job and the projects I have neglected recently finally hit critical mass. That combined with it being super hot has forced me to focus on small projects that can be done in short timespans.

The steering wheel restoration was one of those that I grabbed and started in an effort to move the project forward while I am bogged down. The steering wheel is a typical 70 year old plastic wheel with cracks all around the circumference. So I took a die grinder and a drill and widened the cracks so I could pack the grooves with PC-7 epoxy that I had purchased a while back. The PC-7 is pretty thick after mixed and a little difficult to place in the grooves smoothly but after some work I was able to get it placed.

I then sanded the wheel down with 150 grit and smoothed in the filled areas. After it was smooth, I then sprayed the wheel with an adhesion promoter and followed that with some black 2K epoxy primer. There are some small imperfections that I will address next but it looks better than it did a few weeks ago.

STEERING WHEEL PICS

FIREWALL MODS

After a few more unplanned delays, I finished up the steering wheel restoration. It turned out pretty good.... not perfect but good enough for me. Unfortunately I did take pics with the topcoat on it but there are some pics of it installed a little later.

I did take the steering column to a local machine shop and they did shorten it and c'bore the end I cut from the old stock steering box for the new bearing I bought. Once that was done then it was time to shift the firewall penetration outward a bit to allow the steering linkage to clear the header primaries. I calculated that it need to move about 1/2”, so I cut a nice square area (ok...sorta square) around the hole and shifted it over the 1/2”and filled in the void. Then I fit the cut and modified column into position to see how to column needed to interface with the angled plate I had made to secure it to the firewall. Once I had the angle that the column intersected the plate then I cut an elliptical/oblong hole thru it for the column to pass thru.

The oblong hole took a little time to fine tune but after that I then match-drilled two clearance holes for 5/16 fasteners in the angled plate and the firewall and welded two square nuts onto the angle plate and bolted the plate in place on the firewall. I then rigged the column in place and tack welded it to plate. I then pulled the column assembly and final welded it.

With the column assembly completed, next up was to shorten the inner solid shaft and notch the end to fit the u-joint. I took my time and with a hand grinder a set of mics cut the shaft to length and notched it to fit. I then slid the inner shaft into place and then mounted the restored steering wheel. The only issue that I ran into was that the new horn contact spring assembly was a little long and interfered with the hold button assembly, so I had to trim it to fit. I then mounted everything, steering column, wheel and brake master cylinder, in to place. Next I will assemble this again and grind the welds and primer the applicable parts.

FIREWALL MODS PICS

FIREWALL MODS PICS CONT

Steering Column Wrap-up & Brake Pedal

After getting things preliminarily fit then I did wrap up the steering column mod by doing a quick grind and of the welds and primered the local area. A few pics of the somewhat finished area. I will have to pretty up the welds and massage a few areas when I remove the body from the frame but it will do for now.

With the column installed then I focused on getting the brake pedal built. I used a large hex bolt (½ dia) that I cut off and fabbed up a brake pedal to fit the rubber brake pedal that I had purchased. Once I had it tack welded it in place I then removed the pedal support and final welded the assembly and painted it.

After the brake pedal was in place it became clear that the trans tunnel that I made was going to get in the way of a gas pedal. Oh well, two steps forward and one step back. I address that later after I choose the shifter and get the trans cross-member better defined.

Steering Column Wrap-up & Brake Pedal Pics

Your progressing nicely and your work is top quality. Sometimes the one step back shows you a better way of doing things. I’m following and keep up the good work!

Beautiful work, the firewall modification is unnoticeable. Like Phil said Top Notch.

Thanks for all the encouraging comments. There is always a point in a project where I am extremely glad that I did not realize how much work the project would be because if I did know then I doubt I would have started it. I think I am at that point. But there is no such thing as being a little pregnant so I guess I'll go the distance with this thing at this stage.

Rear Differential Assembly

I ordered and received a limited slip third member from Speedway motors for the Ford 9” and then started getting it prepped for installation. I also pulled out the rear housing as well to start prepping it too. The housing did not have a fluid drain in it so now was a good time to install one that I purchased online.

I also bought some trim-to-fit axles for the rear assembly. With a quick and simple set-up I then trimmed them using cut-off wheels on my 4-1/2” dia grinder and deburring them. The next task was to press in the wheel studs on each axle.

My end-of-the-year goal is to get this thing standing on all four tires. So I have to get the rear end and brakes installed and then try to get the wheels and tires ordered and fitted. That might be a stretch with all the supply chain issues but I like to keep putting small attainable goals for myself.

Too late, your project is way to awesome to not complete, it’s just going to take a bit longer!

Rear Differential Assembly Pics

Rear Differential Assembly Pics Con't

Front Wheel Fitment

With things getting stopped due to various reasons, I went ahead and ordered the tires that I thought would work from tirerack.com. I bought 4 Firestone Firehawks....235/45R18s for the front and 245/45R18s for the rear. Per the IFS vendor's recommendations the front wheel needs to be 8” wheels (with 4” backspacing) and I set the rear suspension to accept 9” wheels (backspacing TBD).

The front suspension is complete enough to check the clearances and backspacing so I went ahead and knocked that out. I also bought a neat little tire fitment tool for the tires so I could check all the requirements before I order the wheels. I set the fitment tool at the IFS vendor's recommended backspacing and articulated the front wheels lock-to-lock to check for any scrubbing or rubbing. All looked pretty good. With the front headlight buckets out I could look into the wheelwell and see if I was bottoming out anywhere. Once I get the rear brake and rear diff reinstalled then I will be able to do the same for the rearwheels/tires.

Front Wheel Fitment Pics

Rear Diff & Brakes

After I got the rotors back from the machine shop then I could final assemble the rear diff and the rear disc brake conversion kit. After struggling to work on the rear diff without some type of cradle to hold it, I took some of my scrap lumber and the wheels from an old moving pallet and made a simple cradle for the rearend.

With it in the cradle then I took some time to thoroughly clean the rear housing prior to installing the mechanism. The first thing in was the third member. I opted to use the newer type gasket that does not require any sealant. We'll see how that does longterm. Then I dropped in the third member and torqued down the t-bolt nuts.

Next were the rear axles. I had a hard time trying to get these installed. I got the RH side in and then the LH side would not go in completely. I kept working the LH side trying to get what I thought were misaligned splines to engage. So after scratching my head for a bit it was time to do some internet browsing to see what I was doing wrong. After about 20 mins on the web then I hit upon the issue. On Ford 9” diffs the rear chunk is not centered on the housing so the axles are unequal length....I knew that part. This particular housing has the chunk less offset than the typical stock ones but it it is still offset. The part that threw me was that I was putting the short axle on the side of the housing that “appeared” to be shorter and the long axle on the opposite end, the installation was actually opposite of this due to the internal engagement of the axles in the third member. I then swapped them and viola, easy fix. Rookie mistake but I learned something (until I forget it next week).

With the axles installed then it was on to the rear disc brakes. The kit from Speedway Motors used the widely available GM metric calipers with integral parking brake. These went together fairly easily except for the wire anti-rattle/pad retaining clips.... these were a pain.

With the rear diff pretty much assembled then it was time to slide it back under the truck and see how things fit. After I slid it in place then it was pretty obvious that I was going to have a major clash of the parking brake arm/mechanism with the inner wheel well that I had formed. Oh, well. The metal work will never end. It was late so I just left it like it sat. I will just cut out the area to clear and then fix the metal later. My goal is to check rear tire and wheel fitment. That will be the next task.

Rear Diff & Brakes

This truck is going to be gorgeous.