The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Horn Bracket

This truck came with its horn in a box. Unfortunately the bracket to mount it is missing.

The only ones I see available are the standard brackets for trucks without oil filters.

Where can I get a bracket for this horn? A diagram with measurements would be helpful if I can't find a real one.

Next, do these wire look like the ones that are supposed to be connected to the horn? This truck is unmodified with no radios, fog lights, or any other added on electrical stuff.

When I get a bracket, I'll be back to ask about hooking it up. Does the steering wheel have to come off to repair the horn button?

Those are the wires, but I really don't like the way that my '52 GMC (and I assume your '50 Chevy) implemented them. One wire connected between the horn and the battery terminal at the stomp starter switch. The other wire left the horn, went up through the steering column and when you mashed the horn button you provided ground. No fuses and all the current through the horn button contacts. Sounds like a fire waiting to happen.



I put a fuse in the line from my battery terminal at the stomp starter and ran the other end of that wire to a generic horn relay I found at FLAPS. Here's one on Amazon:
[img]https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-U173...Horn+Relay&qid=1654046836&sr=8-5[/img]

A picture is worth 1000 words. If it doesn't make sense let me know. If you are still running 6 volts you'd need to find an equivalent 6v relay. I'd run a 20 amp fuse.

Thanks. I'll have to get back to you when it's time to hook it up. Any idea on the bracket?

Bill is right, using a relay is much better that running a wire with with the potential of full battery voltage shorting out in the steering column. A relay came on many of the AD trucks. I installed one on my ‘52 and it was fairly easy. I bought a relay from ,[Relay] picked up power from the positive battery lug on the starter, fused the wire going to the relay and mounted the horns on the passenger side firewall. I basically used the sam diagram that Bill shows.

Here is a bracket from fleabay [LINK]. You can bolt on a piece of angle iron to bolt it to the firewall or fender.

The steering does need to be removed if any part associated with the horn button or wire need to be replaced. If and when you get to that part post your questions.

That bracket is the standard bracket, isn't it? I need the one that moves the horn forward out of the way of the oil filter.

That’s a great horn! Does anyone know if these old 6v horns can be used with a 12v system, maybe with a voltage reducer? I need to get one of those for my ‘52 Stovebolt!

Thanks!

Mike

Otto,
This is the bracket you are looking for. It is made to place the horn in front of the oil filter. There are straight ones that show up on eBay but they will not work. Straight ones are for no oil filter.
Harold

Yes, I know that's the one I need. Where can I get one?

Keep looking on eBay and you may get lucky. Also post an add on “truck Parts Wanted” Forum here onStovebolt. I’ve had allot of luck with fellow bolters coming to the rescue.

If you can’t find anything, a piece of steel plate bent in a vice would also do the job by either buying a standard bracket and bolting it on or custom making a new one. Keep in mind the the horn needs to be isolated from the body ground thus the included grommets on the brackets.

So you're saying the horn doesn't ground to the body like most other car horns?

"So you're saying the horn doesn't ground to the body like most other car horns?"

Otto,
That is correct. The horn uses the horn button for the ground to complete the circuit.
If you make your bracket, here is a good shot showing how the bracket is insulated from grounding.
Harold

The bracket you want was included in the box with the new AC oil filter package.
https://oldchevytrucks.com/blog/2010/02/1948-1953-horn-bracket-location-changes/
Just a thought:
About 1957, cars had a lower profile hood requiring the oil canister to be moved to the other side of the carburetor (towards the firewall).
This would allow the straight bracket to be used for your horn.

I'm pretty sure 6v horns can operate on 12v without modifications. They'll be a little louder.

I've tested this one with 12v and 6v.

Otto,

Just a suggestion since these offset brackets are not readily available.

What about using a couple of 2-1/2" 1/4" bolt sleeves along with 3" or 3-1/2" 1/4"x20 bolts/washers/nuts to mount an original "flat" style horn bracket (readily available from regular vendors) to the original intake mount holes?

The 1/2" OD spacer sleeves should still clear the intake and relocate the horn forward of original position to clear the oil filter housing.

See attached "McMaster" source screen shot for sleeve info. Found these as least expensive, but also available in black anodized aluminum or steel if you want a different look (more expensive). You can also find similar products from other sources, possibly even a local hardware store.

Buoymaker, The oil filter won't fit behind the carburetor because the steering column and shift linkage is in the way.

What kind of buoys do you make?

GDad's 51, The sleeve idea looks pretty good but sleeves won't clear the U-bolts holding the oil filter in place. As you can see the bolt barely clears the clamp without a sleeve. The clamp is only 1/2" or so from the mounting holes.

The truck also came with a new horn button or whatever this is.

I removed the cap and then the button thing. Is there supposed to be anything else under there?

The original and the replacement look close enough with a couple differences. The old one has what looks like a locator pin on the back side.

Both have what appears to be a key-way of sorts in the center hole but it doesn't have a corresponding key on the shaft. How is the button thing supposed to be oriented on the steering shaft?

I see no wires or anything near the button.

Can someone tell me what's what?

It looks like you are missing the contact that goes thru the steering wheel hub. Available thru Classic Parts [Link]

The part (horn button retainer)that has the keyed hole, doesn’t need to be keyed. My ‘52 looks just like yours and it can be installed as it, no key.

Nearest I can figure, later years had self canceling signals so the tab on the back of the horn button retainer and the key would be necessary in that setup. Not required on yours and mine.

Before you put that new horn switch in place examine it closely. I bought one from Classic Parts about 9 years ago that had black paint on the underside of the top piece which prevented it from conducting electricity when pushed. I put a piece of 240 grit sandpaper between the top and bottom pieces, pushed the top down lightly and drug the sandpaper around to knock the black paint off. It has been working well since.

[img]http://talk.classicparts.com/photos/data/500/medium/horn1.jpg[/img]

Thanks Phak I figured there was supposed to be something like that in there.

Good to know, Bill. I'll check it all before assembly.

Otto,

It's the painting over my desk.
Great artist but apparently the seaman has trouble with spelling.

Otto,

See photo for Upper bearing with horn wire. This wire exits at bottom of the steering column and goes to the horn.
Also attached is a copy of a sheet showing parts for your steering wheel and horn button.
Harold

Where in the steering column is that bearing with the wire located?

You need to pull the steering wheel to get to it. It’s the other part that the contact rides on.

OK, thanks.

Otto,
Check to see if the wire is still intact before removing the upper bearing. You should have continuity between one of the wires (in an earlier post) to the brass lip of the bearing.
It is sometimes difficult to remove the bearing without destroying it. If the wire is good and the bearing is not "messed" up, you may be able to still use it. Make sure the brass is clean.
Harold

Yes, that was going to be my plan. I have no desire to remove the wheel.

A similar part on a friend's '58 Cadillac seems to brake the wire all the time so I have no desire to get involved with that thing if I don't have to.

The wheel is easy to remove, but the upper bearing is another story entirely. There are two threaded holes in the wheel hub, I believe their 5/16”x18. Use them and a standard steering wheel puller. Here’s one from O’Reillys. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...omotive-truck-1954-chevrolet-truck?pos=0

You should pull the wheel to clean up the upper bearing contact surface. No need to remove the bearing if i shows continuity and the upper part of steering wheel shaft doesn’t have play.

Otto,

Should have realized that would be in the way (was looking at Harold46 picture with extended bracket).

Further thinking (may have strained some brain cells) came up with what is drawn in attached picture.

Maybe a possible solution, although the length of the all-thread rod may be longer than you need.

Also, if all-thread contacts the filter bracket u-bolt, you could just file down that short section of threaded rod to provide clearance.

Good luck on getting your horn mounted and functioning.

Funny. I figured the mounting part would be easier than getting it working but it looks like it might be the opposite.

Otto,
Here is the bracket you need. You could contact the seller and see if he will sell you just the bracket (the horn does not work). The bracket alone would be less costly to ship.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124581705783?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D8df3664f463241669498fe79e2a6c9a5%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D124581705765%26itm%3D124581705783%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1

Copy the link and paste it to your browser.
Harold

Thanks Harold! I just sent the guy a request for the bracket.

Otto,
I just took a magnified view of the bracket I told you about on eBay. IT IS NOT THE CORRECT BRACKET. do not waste your money.
The bracket on eBay does not have the correct bends in it.
Sorry to get your hopes up. I will continue to keep an eye out for the correct item
Harold

Haha! I almost decided to pay the $20 and get the whole thing. What part is incorrect it it looked right

Otto,
I have to stop looking at this stuff late at night.
The bracket I told you about IS the correct bracket. I accidentally pulled up the wrong one when I magnified the part.
This is the wrong bracket I looked at: Both are from the same seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124581705765?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D3eb48db0bd2446d480f427a04517bb44%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D124581705783%26itm%3D124581705765%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1
Apologies,
Harold

I thought you must have some really good eyesight because it looked correct to me. Too funny.

Otto,
Hope it cleans up nice for you. Both look like they were stored in a lake for several years. Once you clean everything up you may get a working horn as well as a bracket.
Where in Atlanta are you located? I am in Buford.
Harold

Harold,

I live in East Atlanta / Eastlake but my address is Decatur. I live on Flat Shoals Road right off I-20.

Otto--

I had this fabricated for my '48 Chevy 1/2 ton truck. Engine is a 235 c.i. from a 1955 truck. Add-on oil filter present. Original horn. Could this help you out at all? I am no longer using it; have a dual set of horns mounted on the firewall now.

LUKE

Thanks a lot Fonzie I appreciate it but I just bought the horn and bracket on ebay that Harold posted.

Does your clamp wrap around the horn itself?