If shorting the sending unit wire to ground with the key on does not make the gauge read empty, try shorting the gauge terminal at the other end of that wire to ground. If the gauge then reads empty the wire from the gauge to the sending unit is open and needs replacing. JUST MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SHORT THE POWER TERMINAL ON THE GAUGE TO GROUND. SMOKE MAY OCCUR.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Back to my question in the last post on page 3. I need some clarification on how to best access the fuel gauge (i.e. how to drop the cluster) to perform some of these tests.
Doing it “by feel” probably isn’t the wisest approach, now that I think about it.
Which “side” of the gauge has the wire coming from the sender and which “side” has the power supply?
Which “side” of the gauge has the wire coming from the sender and which “side” has the power supply?
Remove the nuts holding the gauge cluster in (the tabs sticking out the sides) and it will come out the back. You'll have to deal with the capillary tube from the temperature sender and connected wiring. There should be a tag on the terminal to connect to the sender. See the attached pic.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
