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#1452351 05/21/2022 9:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Anyone have a source for the rear spring flange bushings? Chevy's of the 40s is all I could find and the shipping cost was too much. Anyone know if the car one is the same size as I can find it cheaper. Doesn't seem to be a popular item and it isn't even shown on a lot of diagrams. Thanks!
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
What vehicle? There are aftermarket spring bushings available that you can probably find to fit your application.

If you mean where the axle pivots on the spring on an AD truck, You can send those to be revulcanized at various vendors, but I set up some molds to pour polyurethane resin in to replace the rubber. The resin cost me $20 and a buck or two for a PVC coupling for the mold rings (white in the picture).
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IMG_4011.JPG (139.87 KB, 131 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
1950 3100...yes that looks like the part I need..the pic I originally posted I do not think is the correct part as it has the rubber on the inside...is their a specific name for this bushing? thank you

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
That picture you posted is probably a "cartridge" replacement for the rubber that's molded in. It should have rubber in it and a sleeve around the bolt. The outer sleeve is probably designed to press into the housing after you burn out the old rubber. The old stuff isn't going to press out without it being softened a bunch, so just tossing it in a fire is the easiest way. It won't get hot enough to hurt the metal housing.
The other option is to send the whole thing in to get revulcanized (Steele does that Link) but it's twice as expensive as what you found at Chevy's of the 40's.
Like I mentioned, casting a new bushing out of polyurethane is another option if you want to tackle that. This is what I used, but it looks like it's out of stock currently.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
You could try a trailer supply place. They might have something that fits - take a sample of what you need with you. I found new rubber bushings for my cab mount shackles at a trailer supply shop.

If you have a friend with a lathe, you could make something up from plastic rod. My friend made some bushings for me from a Delrin rod. Bonus: he did the work while I just had to mix the rum and coke.

I like Kevin's idea. Kevin: is that the same polyester plastic resin that a company like Energy Suspension would use? https://teamenergysuspension.com/

Last edited by Gord&Fran; 05/22/2022 12:11 AM.

Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Gord, I believe it's very similar. There are other outfits that sell 2-part polyurethane resin specifically for suspension bushings. Energy Suspension may have a bushing set that would work. A two-piece flanged bushing that fits in the housing along with a sleeve for the bolt would work just fine.
I used a softer product from the same outfit (Simple Resins) the first try, and it squeezed out shortly after installing the axle in the bare chassis, so I redid them with the harder material, and it's been holding up well so far.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,687
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
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Kevin, can you post more pics of your mold and the finished product?

How does it release from the PVC/ Was the PVC pipe the correct diameter or did you have to put the finished product on a lathe to true it down?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Thanks for all the advice, so I read somewhere that the original picture I posted from chevs of 40's is a replacement...is this true? replacement that has a metal sleeve on outside instead of entire bushing being rubber?..also i found the rubber washers for the ends...who knew 4 rubber washers could cost $16!!! thanks again
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bushing.jpg (18.73 KB, 67 downloads)

Last edited by jasrking; 05/22/2022 7:35 PM.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Otto. I can do that but it’ll be a couple weeks cause I’m away from home and don’t have my pics with me.

Jasrking, I ASSUME that the OD of the outer sleeve of that setup will be a press fit in the housing. It would be best to call Chevys of the 40’s and ask them about it. Those $16 washers were part of the reason I molded my own. They would still be needed after sanding the whole thing in to get re-vulcanized.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,472
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,472
Here is a 50 3100 bushing rear spring bushing from Classic Parts. [LINK]

This may be what you are looking for.

Last edited by Phak1; 05/23/2022 12:49 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Thanks Phak1 but thats a press in fitting for the actual leaf spring...I am looking for the rubber press in fitting that goes from the axle housing to the spring seat that holds the U bolts. I have an email in to Chevs of the 40's..I will let you know what they say..I am thinking the metal sleeve is there so they can be press fitted otherwise you would probably destroy the rubber trying to press them in??

klhansen..why not just put the sleeve in the middle and pour around it instead of making a mold, then just buy the washers? what am i missing?

Last edited by jasrking; 05/23/2022 11:53 PM.

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