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Edit by Moderator: this Journal is the start of a 1959 Chevy Apache 1/2 ton Panel truck. The pictures are now correct for this truck.

1959 Panel truck 1/2 ton. Some major work to do.

dash before and after

Well wish me luck.

Luck!!!!

Yikes! I don’t see any bracing on the body. Did you cut out the floor without bracing the body first? If so you set yourself for a nightmare piecing it back together and getting everything to fit properly.

What Phil said about bracing. Your best approach would be to hang the doors back on and align them with proper gaps front, back, and top (or beltline matched), then install some bracing to hold that position. It'll be much harder to do, but, like Phil said, if you get it wrong, depending on the floor patch panel for location, you'll be up a creek when it comes to refitting the doors. If there's a Factory Assembly Manual for your year, you MAY be able to use weld checking dimensions from that, but the original doors would be a better approach.

Please take a step back and do some bracing.

Good Luck.

Hey thanks.

I see that the dash is blocked up, but you don't have anything that I can see that would prevent the bottom of the door opening from spreading or shrinking. That's the critical part. You really need bracing to hold the cab in the correct position front to back at the bottom of the door and also something to prevent the door opening from becoming distorted diagonally.
It should look like this: [] and not like this: //
It really doesn't take much to get too far off for the doors to fit. Are you saying the lower hinges are not there?
The front clip is a totally different thing.
If you don't have one of these you definitely should order one. That link isn't the only source.

I replaced the entire front steel floor section on my suburban - with minimal bracing at first. I put the doors back on - and used a couple ratchet straps to get the gaps close and then welded a couple braces. All of this after the fact of cutting out the old floor...and wish I knew that beforehand. Just like woodworking nothing is fatal except a good fire - but there are some things to prep and think ahead of time to prevent a lot of work later. So - rehang the doors - check the gaps, make sure it is latched - use what you have to push, pull, adjust, and get them close and brace it - then do the same on the other side.

I give you a lot of credit - what you're doing isnt' for the faint of heart - but do-able. The trick is to think three steps ahead.

I`ll be the first to admit I don`t know what I am doing. I have exhausted
all hopes of finding anyone that can do the work. Nobody wants to and
I don`t want to beg. So, I'll try myself. I have enough money and time.
We`ll see. I`ll either end up with something decent or a pile of junk.
I have no other avenues.

Only doors are the originals.

Keep at it...and as you fit and align the doors and floor - post the pics here and others here will guide you...and by sharing you will be showing others who need to do the same. Hat is off to you... one step at a time - walk away at times if you need to, and come back to it with renewed energy and fresh eyes. Others here with the same cab type may be able to take measurements for you and post photos here of those measurements to guide you.

Good project!

Can you post pictures of the door opening including the pillars? We need to see what you are working with. The outside of the doors too.

Hey thanks guys!! I figure its worthy.

It looks like the lower hinge on the driver's door is gone, but I would still remount the door with the upper hinge and even tack it in place after you get the gaps adjusted. Then go inside (or crawl under ) and weld some bracing across the inside of the door opening, as far down as you have solid metal on the A and B pillars, and another up near the belt line.
Your plan with the floor is good except that you have no good reference currently for the front to back dimension. DO NOT depend on the replacement floor pan to be correct.

You should be commended for taking on that project. As the other guys have said, take it one step at a time, and DO ask for help here. We want to see the finished project. We can help you produce something you can be proud of.

You can do it.

Brace brace brace brace, attach the doors, fit and brace brace brace. I can’t emphasize enough brace. You have already gone too far without bracing. Step backwards and correct your mistake before going forward again. Aftermarket floor pans are NOT perfect. Im just emphasizing what everyone else has told you. Do not ignore this free advise.

Thanks!! .

Unfortunately, I hate to break it to you, that is both good and bad news. After market sheet metal is notorious for not fitting properly. Many bolters have drove themselves near crazy trying to get the gaps and alignment to factory specs. A good example is a fellow bolter “Fox”, that bought an entire new bed for his build and ran into issues when the tailgate didn’t match the rear right bedside. Here is a link to that post. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ndpa-s-1970-c10-rebuild.html#Post1446340

The front end is another hurdle you sill have to tackle, but you have to get your cab together first. Don’t look that far forward, as you will only get discouraged. Take the job at hand and research. That is what this forum is for, so you don’t make the mistakes that we bolters already have.

If it was my project, my first thought would be to reinstall the old floor temporarily with tacks, then brace the doors.

If that isn’t possible, I would hang the doors back on (don’t fix them yet, use them as is because you will use them to locate the lower hinge and fixing them now will only compound the issue), even if you have to tack weld an angle iron across the skin of the doors to the sheet metal on the body to locate the door and establish the gaps then use the lower door hinge to locate the “A” pillar and tack weld it in place. Don’t weld it in completely until you fit the floor and the other associated panels. Next brace the door opening both horizontally and diagonally, then remove the door. This way you will know that the lower hinge and pillar is in the right place.

Good luck and don’t be shy about asking questions.

Great advise. Thanks!!!

I do find it quite discerning that the repair panels made in China and Taiwan don`t
fit properly. That/they probably should not be imported. IDK what else to do with the truck but if I am fighting an
uphill battle, thats difficult with my expertise level.
If all this fails, I guess my alternative would be to turn it into a fleet/step side?
Hopefully the frame is not much different than either of those. Would just need a cab.

The patch panels from offshore can definitely be problematic, but they're just metal. You can make them fit with some massaging. Front clip parts may be another issue, but everything can be fixed, given enough time and patience. I think you're cab floor can be successfully repaired. You just have to be sure the dimensions are right. It would be a shame to just replace the body with a pickup cab/bed. Everyone has one of those. Hang in there. You'll be an expert when you're finished.

Hey thanks man!

Looks good so far, but there's fitting and fitting perfectly. Before you commit with welding anything, MEASURE, MEASURE, AND MEASURE AGAIN.

On the body mount hole, there may be a reinforcement piece available. Definitely look into that. Do you still have the original floor to compare?

I do have the original..1959 panel truck
readied frame.

These had to be cut out. Careful not to cut thru the cross sill underneath.

Looks like you've thought it out.

Looks like it’s starting to come together. Nice work and good plan!

Between the wood and the angle strip there was some black "caulk" to
act as a sealant? What is a good substitute for this?

I found an extra leaf spring bushing that fits in the cross sill body mount hole perfect.

.1959 apache panel

corner

1959

Lining up great

full pic

Boy does that look nice. What a difference.

Thanks!!

1959 panel

We are VERY exacting on panel replacement and gaps since a botched job costs us serious money where the hobbyist is out sweat and labor. On total floor replacement we fit the doors, with no hinges, into the body and shim till they fit the opening. The doors are then welded to the body with 4-6 good tacks on the front edge and rear edge. Bracing installed at this point so doors can be removed and floor/rockers/pillars/cross members can be welded in. Pictured is a 37 Chevy Business Coupe that the entire floor AND firewall was replaced (firewall to accommodate a big block engine).



Bracing installed but not in way of door fitting hole: (Photo 1)

Doors shimmed for fit before welding: (Photo (2)

All gaps MUST be thickness of a paint stir stick: (Photo 3)

Body molding lines and door gap: (Photo 4)

New floor and firewall: (Photo 5)

very nice. I don`t have a restoration shop. No one wanting to take the job on.
I will do the best I can as a hobbyist with the limited tools and accessories.
Right now I need to figure out how to get the body back on the frame.
Before I used cinder blocks , two 12 ft 4x4 and a bottle jack.
But that option is not up with the steps installed.
I have a 5000lb pulley and a 10,000lb winch and straps. Trying to figure
out using a spreader bar to keep the body from being "pinched" when raised.

Do you have a engine lift and a buddy (or rental) with one too? You could use two, one from the drivers or passengers door and one from the back using a couple of 4x4’s fastened to the end of the boom and passed thru the windows.

Here is how we lift bodies for S10 swaps as it leaves the floor under the cab/frame free of any hoist legs. The chain is bolted to the top door hinge bolt which is strong enough that no sheet metal damage will occur. A test lift is done and weights added front/rear to gain level balance. Once level the chassis can be rolled under the cab with nothing in the way.

In this case a 100# tractor weight was hung on the radiator core support, Without front clip weight is hung on firewall: (Photo1)

Level cab is suspended in air ready for chassis to be rolled under it. Note chain can be seen just behind radio antenna: (Photo 2)

Your floor is really good for no bracing used.