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#1449419 04/26/2022 12:41 AM
Joined: Dec 2019
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'Bolter
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planning the rewiring of the '37. I'm going 12v with halogen reflectors which I understand should have relays and am in need of advice. Should the relays be wired in #1 between the fusebox and lightswitch #2 between the lightswitch and dimmer or #3 between the dimmer and the headlights requiring two (high and low beams). Also thoughts on the need for a horn relay.


Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
37 GC #1449571 04/26/2022 11:43 PM
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Horn relay is a simple answer. You must have one. The horn switch isn't designed to handle the amperage the horn needs by itself.

Headlight relays are a little more complex. You probably do need a relay (2 actually) with halogen reflector lights, but you need to think about it carefully. The way your truck is wired now, the headlight switch has a resetting circuit breaker built into it. That means should any short occur in your headlight circuit you won't blow a fuse (which is a one-time affair) but will allow your headlights to continue to work (intermittently) if there is trouble. You must continue with that scheme.

Here is how one fellow did it: http://audi.humanspeakers.com/headlight-simple.htm

You'll need 2 Bosch style relays (heavy duty--30 amp). Instead of using 20 amp fuses as he did, I would use one 40 amp resetting circuit breaker (split to the input side of each relay). but otherwise his circuit looks pretty ok to me. Important note: in his drawing, the yellow wire (stock low beam wire) is the wire controlling the low beam coming from your headlight switch and the high beam wire is the one coming from your high beam foot switch. Good luck.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
37 GC #1449684 04/27/2022 7:32 PM
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'Bolter
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thanks Jon for the drawing. In essence you are saying #3 from my post with 30amp relays and 40 amp breaker. The old 6v deteriorated wiring I tore out showed no signs of a horn relay and was wired direct. possible on a '37? No fusebox of any kind and the only fuse was built into the amp gauge. Horn switch is just a ground through a heavy s wire under the button to a bearing ring in the steering column. rubber holding the button also serves as the spring. I will use a relay there also.

Last edited by 37 GC; 04/27/2022 7:53 PM.

Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
37 GC #1449704 04/27/2022 9:43 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,208
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Hi Larry,
I think there is a relay on top of the generator going to the horn. One appears in the wiring diagram (below).

Yes, #3 on your post with 30 amp relays and a 40 amp resetting breaker. You may find both the low beam wire and the high beam wire come from your high beam switch. I believe this is the case and the wiring diagram shows this. Many were wired that way, so I'd expect it to be so. Good luck.
Attachments
s-l1600.jpg (246.46 KB, 202 downloads)


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
37 GC #1449706 04/27/2022 11:03 PM
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Posts: 28,674
H
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Jon, the relay you're seeing on the schematic is the cutout relay for the 3-brush generator that prevents the battery from discharging through the generator with the engine stopped. It's just being used as a junction block to provide voltage to the horn, which operates only when the button at the steering wheel is grounded. There is no horn relay in that circuit. The upper right of that schematic illustrates the optional 2-unit regulator that includes a cutout relay and a voltage regulator. No current control with that system.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
37 GC #1449723 04/28/2022 2:19 AM
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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You're right, Jerry. Seems a good amount of current to run through a horn button, though.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
37 GC #1449725 04/28/2022 2:33 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
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6 volt systems are wired to take it. Much heavier gauge conductors, and beefy switch contacts. Then the train drivers and bean counters got into the mix and started making stuff that would just barely last through the warranty- - - -most of the time!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
37 GC #1449820 04/28/2022 11:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Yep, but you know the last 4 6v vehicles I owned all had horn relays and a person gets used to some things...a 1951 Ford Victoria, a 1955 T-Bird, a 1951 GMC pickup and of course the 1952 Chevy pickup. The T-Bird had twin horns (hi/low).


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
37 GC #1459166 07/18/2022 12:44 PM
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'Bolter
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[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ame/16581484370768063426679000570191.jpg[/img]If I may join in here. I purchased a double louder pair of horns for my 3100 years ago. It is powered directly to the battery +. If the battery- wire isn't good and secure the horn is sketchy. I have noticed that when sounding the horn the voltmeter certainly shows a discharge.

I have a 3 wire spade relay for the horn to install. I didn't see a wiring diagram or description of the hook up. On the side of the relay I see #1 then a switch a #3, then the resistance off of that and a #2. Embossed on the connection side with the wire spades I see #1, #5, & #3.

Any clarification on the wiring will be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
20220718_085231.jpg (209.7 KB, 87 downloads)
20220718_085204.jpg (181.62 KB, 87 downloads)

Last edited by jameschevypu50; 07/18/2022 12:56 PM. Reason: Trying to attach photos..
37 GC #1459171 07/18/2022 1:02 PM
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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I think you have basically the same relay as me. Here is a picture of mine that I labeled for clarity. (1) H is horn, (3) 12v is battery (in your case 6v) and (5) S is switch (horn button).
Attachments

Last edited by Phak1; 07/18/2022 1:08 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
37 GC #1459188 07/18/2022 3:38 PM
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B
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If JamesChevyPU50 does still have a 6 volt system, that 12v relay may not pull in.

Original wiring ran from hot through the horn and up to the horn button on the steering wheel which provided ground when mashed.

When using a relay, the preferred way (by me anyway) is to run hot to your terminal #3, horn button to your terminal #2 and connect the horn(s) to terminal #1. The other terminal on (each) horn needs to be grounded.

And if it were me, I'd put a fuse or self resetting circuit breaker into the hot line as close to the battery as practical. Mine connects to the battery cable at the stomp starter switch.

Self resetting breakers are cheap and can be found at FLAPS.

Circuit Breaker

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 07/18/2022 3:41 PM.

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
37 GC #1459264 07/18/2022 11:37 PM
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon
If JamesChevyPU50 does still have a 6 volt system, that 12v relay may not pull in.
That particular relay sold by Classic Parts, will work on either 6 or 12 volts. The diagrams on both relays (mine and the OP’s) were the same, so I showed him how I wired it up.

I agree it should be fused and I did install a fuse between the battery and the relay.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
37 GC #1459345 07/19/2022 5:23 PM
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Thank you all for your concise answers. I really appreciate that.

37 GC #1459383 07/19/2022 10:20 PM
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J
'Bolter
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Relay is in. How about a fuse aamperage recommendation for these 2 horns?
Attachments
20220719_181651.jpg (282.81 KB, 62 downloads)

Last edited by jameschevypu50; 07/19/2022 10:27 PM.
37 GC #1459400 07/20/2022 12:14 AM
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'Bolter
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I just looked at '57 Chevy car, '57 GMC truck and '61 Pontiac car wiring diagrams. None had protection for the horn circuit. I still think it is a good idea.

I just measured the current draw on my horns. About 8 amps for both combined. They are plastic high and low tone horns bought in blister packs at FLAPS. I'd use a 15 amp fuse.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
37 GC #1459474 07/20/2022 12:38 PM
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J
'Bolter
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At the moment I used the highest amperage fuse that I have. That is a 20A fuse.

Jon G #1459801 07/22/2022 6:53 PM
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'Bolter
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Jon G Think i'll just stay with 2 6014 headlamps that just shine on the white line on dim since I don't aim to drive 85 mph at night in a 50 mph truck. Also want people i'm meeting to be able to see to get by !!


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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