The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Cannister oil filter removal

I have finally completed the dual exhaust on my truck. The cannister oil filter doesn't fit with the fenton headers. I would like to convert to a spin on (or make a new mounting spot for my cannister) but just to get it started and hear the new exhaust and ensure my 6 to 12 volt conversion is ok...

The big question is... can I just plug the holes where the cannister filter was? Will oil still get to everywhere else. I think I know the answer to this but I want to be sure I don't do any damage and I really don't feel like taking off the valve cover and the distributer and running the pump to check and ensure the oils gets to the head.

I know these came with oil filter optional but do I have to run a line between the oil filter feed and return... or can I just plug the holes?

Are we talking about a 216 or 235 and a bypass filter?

If it's the typical filter mounted on the intake manifold, then it's a bypass filter and you can just plug the lines. My truck has the larger S-2 filter cannister mounted on the inner fender above the steering gear. There apparently was a mounting bracket sold for that as it doesn't look home-made. If yours is the 1 quart capacity S-6 filter it would probably fit fine there.

J, yes it’s a 235

K yes it is a 1qt I pulled it off the old 216 that was in the truck.
I will likely mount it like yours but it will require some longer tubes than when it was mounted on the manifold

Thanks guys!

Let me know if you'd like some dimensions from the bracket. I'd be happy to send them to you.

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...C836C99-056D-4A72-891F-477B3AC8940E.jpeg[/img] I have a ‘46 with the Williams headers and have a filter like the one pictured on my ‘50 passenger vehicle. It mounts to the intake manifold with U-bolts. I don’t presently have a picture of the one I installed on the ‘46, but it is mounted to the rear of the carburetor and is correct for the year with correct gray paint and decals. I’ll try to get out and take a pic of it.

Rusty,
That’s exactly how mine was. I put Fenton split headers on and now I need to mount the filter elsewhere. You can’t mount it on the intake anymore the exhaust is in the way. A picture would be great.
Thanks

How about just fabricating a spacer from a piece of square tubing and using longer U bolts to move the canister away from the intake runner toward the inner fender a little? That sounds simpler than trying to find a different mounting location. You might need longer flex lines, or pieces of hard pipe from the block past the dual pipes to avoid burning the rubber lines.
Jerry

This is what I have for a setup. The engine is a ‘61 model 235. I thought about putting the 216 rocker cover on it to be a little more deceiving to most people. But then again most people think that the Chevrolet I-6 engine was always blue.

Here’s a pic from before I restored it. I pulled it from another ‘46 in a junkyard.

I have been running without a filter since 2012 with no problems. In the early days, it was an option. I had a remote spin on installed but it showed no pressure and I had it removed. There is a way to do it properly, Jerry can explain it.

On the AD truck an oil filter was a dealer option. My 54 3100 235 came from the factor without an oil filter and spent most of it's life without one. I added one 5 years ago just for the "looK'. It is not required. They are not full flow and only a portion of the oil gets filtered.

Just a quick question, Rusty- - - -is that choke stove tube pulling exhaust gas into the carburetor? It's only supposed to get hot air there.
Jerry

Copied from my blog.

Oil Filter Myth
I know this goes against what most people do but I take the oil filter off most of my customers 216's and 235's.

I always wonder what people think an oil filter is removing from the oil.

In the old days when you would pull into a service station and they would pump oil out of a 55 gallon drum into a oil dispenser that had been sitting around collecting bugs, dust, or flying grinding material etc... a case could be made that an oil filter was needed. With today's sealed containers not so much.

The other case where a filter may help is if something is failing in the engine. In this case the filter would need to be looked at closely when removed to catch such a problem(and no one closely inspects their filter, they wait until there is a noise and by then it is too late).

The particles coming off an engine from normal wear are so small that they pass right through a filter.
I know a filter sounds like a MUST HAVE idea, but so does snake oil.

I do like a filter for the break in period but that is all.

In 1990 I bought a new 4 cylinder Toyota Camry. The engine in that car sat at an angle with the oil filter on the high side. When the filter was removed, oil would run all over the side of the engine. After a few filter changes I got tired of the mess and ended up leaving a filter on it for about one hundred thousand miles. At that point I replaced it and also cut open the old filter. Not to my surprise it was spotless inside.
The position that this filter sat allowed it to drain the oil from it when sitting so I was not leaving dirty oil in the engine when changing the oil.
The car was totaled with 165,000 and it was running like a top with no oil consumption at that point.

My 2 cents.

6-4-15 Addition:
I get a lot of comments saying that "if oil filters were not necessary new car manufacturers would not put them on". I feel this is very easy to explain. During the break-in process there is a fair amount of dirt and filings sloughed off. Car manufactures want to catch these particles. After break-in they do not want you to have to come back and remove the filter so it stays. There is also a fair amount of money made selling these filters, so why would they want to stop selling them.

The filters on most cars now are full flow filters that are there to catch any big chunks that might be in the oil (break-in particles, etc.) They are rated in the 10's of microns, but the add-on bypass filters are usually rated at under 10 microns, removing the smaller particles (although I have no idea what the rating on the P-115 or P-117 filters used in the AD era filters is) from a small percentage of the oil each pass. Eventually nearly all of the oil would pass through the bypass filter, removing the smaller particles.
I think that's a good thing, as wear particles (bits of cast iron from the cylinder walls, etc.) can imbed in the bearings causing additional wear. I think in the long run, it would extend the engine life somewhat, although most people now get rid of their cars before they have 100k miles on them, so it doesn't matter to them.
But my nicely restored S-2 cannister with the blue body and orange top just looks cool.

If a filter is able to do a really effective job of straining debris out of the oil, it needs to have media with small enough pores that a tiny volume of oil trickles through it. Obviously, a "full flow" filter that passes enough oil to keep the engine lubricated can't do a good job of filtering. The ideal situation would be to have a full flow filter to catch the "rocks, marbles, and bowling balls" like Carter used to describe the woven wire strainers in carburetor inlets, and a bypass filter with a 1-micron media to do the actial filtering. Using a spin-on Diesel fuel filter in a bypass mode in addition to a full flow filter for looks might be a good compromise.
Jerry

Either that or it needs to be REALLY big if a full flow filter, so that more oil can get thru a multitude of those small pores.
What you said is true. A full flow "big chunk" filter AND a small pore bypass filter would be a good solution.
Getting the dirt out of the oil makes engines last longer. Filtration is one way. The other way is to change the oil at ridiculously short intervals.

Some of the 855 cubic inch Cummins Diesels I worked on back in the 1970's had that exact system- - - -a full flow for the big stuff, and a bypass that did more effective filtering. I believe Volvo uses a similar system. A warranty claim inspection I did a couple of years ago was on a Volvo OTR rig that had two different oil filter part numbers- - - -two of one type, and one of another.
Jerry

Maybe that Volvo setup was dual full flow filters (more area to let enough oil thru to lube the engine). Maybe it had a setup where oil flowed thru one till it plugged then automatically switched over to the other. Some guys running diesels do extended oil change intervals and change the bypass filter between changes, leaving the full flow filter in place till the oil is changed.

That’s just heat for the choke