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| | | Forums66 Topics128,034 Posts1,055,546 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 759 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 759 | I just want to double check myself on lifting my 235 engine and installing it. At the front, I feel pretty confident. I have a short chain attached at both ends to the two 3/8 bolts that attach the thermostat housing to the head. At the rear, I have a 3/8 forged eye bolt installed in place of the rear bolt that holds the rocker arm assembly in place. Thanks for your help.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,022 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,022 | That should work.
I built an engine leveler from a broken trailer tongue jack that uses the valve cover attaching studs on my 216. The gives me the ability to change the angle of the engine.
If you don't have an engine leveler, you should consider getting one, especially if the cab is on the truck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 759 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 759 | I have considered buying a leveler, but haven't done so yet. I normally use a large chain between the front & rear attachment points, and I have always been able to level the engine by changing the link that I use to hook the hoist hook onto. Of course that's not as handy as a leveler because I have to take all weight off of the hoist in order to move my leveling point. Yes, my cab is on the truck, but none of the sheet metal in front of the cab is on yet, so that will help a lot. Thanks for your reply. You are always helpful.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,760 | I usually remove the rocker arms and pushrods, bolt a couple of pieces of angle iron to the head using two rocker stand bolt holes, with 3/8-16 Grade 5 bolts, and attach a piece of chain to the angle iron with clevises. That gives a straight up lift to the bolt instead of a sideways shear force.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2022 Posts: 5 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2022 Posts: 5 | Engine levelers are the way to go. I have an inexpensive one from Duralast that has a coarse acme-type thread that works great. I much prefer it over my nice heavy duty one with 1/2 - 13 threads on the leveling rod, as it operates faster, is lighter weight, and smaller to store in my garage. Use some 1” flat bar bent into an “L” shape with a chain on end going to the leveler, and bolt the other side through one of the removed head bolts with 1/2” grade 8’s. Clevis pins are handy for making chain connections. Just don’t hook on to the intake or exhaust manifold as they will crack under the weight. | | |
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