So I am trying to break down the king pin assembly and right off the bat I am have a problem getting the "retainer" off of both ends of each pin. They dont have C clips holding them in place, rather, they are pinged in, like a punch was used to pinch down the spindle edge to hold it in place. I have spent about an hour or so, on getting one out, 3 to go. Is there any secret to getting these things out? Its a terrible start to a task that looks to be a lot of fun, haha
The caps are not holding the king pin in place, they are grease retainers/debris guards. Drill a hole in the cap and thread a sheet metal screw in and use it as a leverage. It would also help to know what vehicle being you are cussing at.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
They are expendable. Knock a hole in the cap with a punch. Work the hole big enough to get a stiff screwdriver in it and just lever it out.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
You do know that the king pins are locked into place with a tapered pin that runs crosswise through the axle end AND the king pin.Has a 3/8-24 lock nut IIRC. If you use a Christmas tree carbide burr in a Dremel tool at each stake point the plug will remove easier and will need done for the new plug anyway.
Got them out. The screw in the middle worked on two of them but one of them sat right on top of the Kingpin so I had to drill a hole on the edge, and yes I got the crossbolt still to go. I read up on the Tech Tip for king pins. Good tip on the burring bit.. Thanks for the input
Adding a few words of wisdom I learned from Sid's Axles. Fix the axle first then work your way out.
A typical situation is that the old king pin is badly worn and is grooved, the bushings are thin, and the spindle shows wear. This wear has been going on for some time but it takes $$$ to fix up an old truck so people may drive it, as it is making it worse, till a new owner comes along. Even though the king pin is held tight in the middle with the center retaining pin, the hardened steel king pin can still flex at the top and bottom. This flex can oblong or make the axle bore (figure 7) out of round. The amount of bore wear is increased by driving with worn bushings and spindle. Unless you have a portable boring machine handy and can make your own bushings, this means the axle has to come out and be taken to a truck axle shop. Since you are doing your own repair it is a decision that you may have to make.
Many just replace the king pin, bushings and install shims as needed. If your repair job doesn't last long, I would take the truck to a truck axle shop and let them rebuild it. It is labor intensive work so the cost is high.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Ok, so I have the king pins out, old bushings out, spindles all cleaned up, ready for re-assembly. Just received the new king pin kit. OER brand #153641 for years 47-59. The thing is my old set up had just one bearing in the assembly. The new kit has no bearings, but all shims of different sorts, with NO instructions. Went to OER web site, no help. Any ideas on how the re-assembly should go?
Before I buy, I look at the parts I need to replace and see if the vendor is showing the same parts. The people selling this stuff rarely gets out of the office and they definitely don't work on old trucks (IMHO). I would ask for a refund. Picture is a comparison of Classic Industries and Classic Parts.
INVEST in a reproduction GMC Shop Manual or an original one in good condition. Until you get your manual, you can use the on-line Chevy manual (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm). Beware there can be differences between a Chevy and GMC truck for the same year.
The shims (2 each side) are only used if needed to make the spindle and axle a snug fit. My experience is that one or none is enough and two is too tight or will not go.
Last edited by buoymaker; 04/15/20225:34 PM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I got the kit that is on the left. I'm wondering if the bronze side goes towards the thrust washer shown in the picture blow up on the right. It says that thrust washer set up was used on forward control models. I don't know what that is, but I'm assuming I can use it on my 52 gmc 1/2 ton...That was very helpful
A 1/2 ton king pin set uses ball bearings (right side of Buoymaker's first pic.) You need to send the one you got back and get the proper king pin set. They should be the same GMC or Chevy.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You've got the wrong kit. "Forward Control" means step van, like bread trucks, etc. where the driver sits over the front axle. Look at the kit on the right- - - -it's got the concave plugs for the top and bottom, not the bolt-on ones like the left kit. That kit also has the ball bearing load carrying parts, not thrust washers and cups for them to ride in. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Yep. Ordered the correct parts although I believe the thrust washer kit would have worked, I stacked the washer kit according to the picture and it was identical height of the original bearing. It's great talking to people who know about this stuff
Another difference between the king pin sets for 1/2 ton and larger trucks is the bushings on the 1/2 ton are a thumb push fit in the spindles while the larger trucks need a press to install and then reamed to fit the kingpin. 1/2 ton setup needs no reaming.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
