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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 340
N
'Bolter
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Wondering if a guy really needs all 3 of these to put in the floor of a truck? My truck currently has nothing. I do want to sound proof the cab more than it is, that's for sure. But if you were to put in the floormat Pad ($27) and the floormat $120, wouldn't that be enough? The sound deadener is another $50. And i know some just use a cheaper kind of deadener that you would have to cut yourself. But is all that really necessary? Maybe go with the deadener and the floormat, and not the pad? Thanks for any suggestions or thoughts. I did make a 2 piece floor mat using matts from Menards, but it just doesn't look that great. So am looking for something more professional looking but something that won't cost a ton. Again, thanks!


1956 Chevy 3100 Stepside Shortbox
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
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Depends on if you want truck quiet, car quiet, or Cadillac quiet!

Joined: Mar 2007
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'Bolter
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I plan on deadener and mat. The deadener is the butyl rubber stuff and the rubber floor mat cover. I don't want any jute/rodent nest material, but that circumstance may not apply to you. Plus if any water gets in the jute it will hold the moisture on the metal = rust.

If it was of no concern to me I would do deadener, then jute, then mat and I would pay special attention to cab step area and try to find some sort of termination bar to close it off so that the jute pad doesn't show under the mat.

I have similar dilemma at the firewall too, for sake of cost I'll probably have to use a jute pad w/rubber face cover for that 50$.

I plan on using peel and stick deadener off Amazon... some off brand of course. Its about 1.60$ square foot, comparable to the duct/pipe insulation at DIY centers.

About 350$ for deadener, firewall cover and mat. (Enough deadener to do the floor, firewall, back of cab, doors and headliner area = 75SF +/-)

Joined: Dec 2018
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'Bolter
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niobrarafun I just use cardboard,fit it with a carpet knife,use hot glue in places then write Kentucky carpet with a phone number on it. People at car shows just cackle. Onlookers just like to see the interior and gauges which all work since original cept gas gauge. Don't use anyway is propane burner.

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'Bolter
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Thanks to both of you for giving me this information. I went ahead and ordered the deadener and mat (which is on backorder) and went with Kilz off Amazon for the pad stuff. I got a kick out of your Kentucky Carpet idea Fixtie! LOL
I was disappointed with the cutouts on the deadener, they don't line up very well in a few places. Sad to see that. Anyone else have issues with that? Thanks again.
Niobrarafun


1956 Chevy 3100 Stepside Shortbox
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 94
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59 Apache 3100
59 Apache 3100
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I went with 2 boxes of Kilmat off Amazon last summer & still have 50% of the 2nd box. I did the floor, back of gas tank,wall just behind gas tank & the headliner area. I was too lazy to remove the firewall pad,but i'd do that too if it was already off. I didn't want to ruin the "stock" look so I painted the kilmat that's under the seat. It blends in & I don't notice it unless i look for it.

It made a BIG difference in sound ! All the empty drum sound went away & I can hear myself think now. Its not car quiet but its money well spent. I will use the rest inside the doors eventually. It feels like a different truck now.
Attachments
59 interior dash.jpg (275.86 KB, 159 downloads)
59 interior.jpg (232.43 KB, 156 downloads)


1959 3100, original 235/3 on the tree w/overdrive. Carter YF 2100S carb, 205/75/15 w/front sway bar
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,194
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,194
In addition to what hairball did, I put strips inside my doors also.

Major difference!

Chris

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'Bolter
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Wow that really looks good festerhb! ndkid - how did you go about putting strips insided the doors? That doesn't sound easy!


1956 Chevy 3100 Stepside Shortbox
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Moderator, Electrical Bay
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When I was in college, we would first paint the floor with some thick enamel paint. Let that dry really well. Then get about 3/8 inch thickness of newspaper, wet it with a mixture of water and flour (roughly equal parts) and press it firmly against the floorboard on a dry day. Your 3/8" will then be more like 1/4". Run it from floorboard to inner firewall and across from side to side. Let it dry completely and if you've done it right, it will perfectly follow every indention, bolt head, channel, etc. Once it dries, it will sort of resemble a thick egg carton. Carefully remove it (note: you may have to cut it in the middle with a box cutter...sometimes you can't easily remove the entire piece), lay the back side up and coat it with a couple of coats of polyurethane to give you a vapor barrier and for strength. Let this dry and recoat. Then set it back inside and coat the top side with polyurethane. Now you have a custom mat that will absorb noise and keep your interior more warm in the winter. A friend who had a 49 Plymouth made it so quiet you could hear the car's clock ticking.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,194
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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Posts: 2,194
I had a painter do it! The raised areas are white.

Last edited by ndkid275; 04/01/2022 3:44 AM.
Joined: Mar 2007
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Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
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I've been following this thread as it's on my to do list. I had been wondering if it was worth the added cost and effort, I think you folks have convinced me. Festerhairball (need to ask about that tag line) your install looks really clean. I really like the way you've added your seat belts, was this a kit?


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
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'Bolter
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JonG That sounds like a perfect shot on a noisy beater,especially if you could keep it dry ! You just never know what you'll learn on stovebolt. Here in the midwest the windshield rubber leaks at the low outer corners and rots out the floor boards,cab corners go too !

Joined: Dec 2018
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'Bolter
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jong welp my posts just leak off into the clouds

Joined: Oct 2019
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59 Apache 3100
59 Apache 3100
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Posts: 94
Tuts 59 , yes the seatbelts were these from classic parts

3 point universal seatbelts

Tip..... I installed them & then reupholstered my worn out seat(broken spring & no foam). This raised my seat considerably, which bugged me & i raised the mounting point 3" (welding, body filler, paint). They work good but are sensitive & they require to be put on slower than say a modern car seatbelt.

The "festerhairball" came from a British friend after a long night in Reno,NV. I had long hair at the time (sure miss my hair) & i looked like an 80's rock star when i woke up. "He said what a fester.... a festerhairball" grin

2 more pics showing the seatbelts in more detail
Attachments
20200330_154939.jpg (212.6 KB, 36 downloads)
20200331_122012.jpg (119.66 KB, 36 downloads)


1959 3100, original 235/3 on the tree w/overdrive. Carter YF 2100S carb, 205/75/15 w/front sway bar
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,985
Festerhairball, thanks for the info and additional info on the seat belts. I am no where close to the point of adding seat belts but I do like to plan ahead. Great tip on mounting the points higher, I my wait until I have my seat completed to figure out the mounting location. Did you use any additional supports under the cab?

PS: I know exactly where you are, my Sister lives in Sacramento and my Brother in Modesto.

Last edited by TUTS 59; 04/05/2022 4:53 PM.

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane

Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

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