I would like some opinions and recommendations on using single stage urethane rather than a base coat clear coat finish. Does anyone have a success story or war story for either? my thoughts are that I could more easily apply a single stage myself. Your thoughts?
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
I used the PPG Shop Line, it did a good job, was easy to apply and had a nice finish. I used an inexpensive Vapar Detail gun for. the interior Price was good as well. Mike
Mike, Do you have a number or a name or anything you could share regarding the color you used for the interior. Looks great, I'm just trying to gather a bit of information for the interior colors people have been using. I need to do the interior of my 1950 1 ton and trying to get as close as I can to the original. Let me know when you can.
I have the PPG ALK-200 paint sold by Jim Carter. It's an Acrylic Modified Alkyd Enamel single stage. So far I have used the engine paint, which is easy to spray (right out of the can) and looks good. I also checked the steering column color I got from JC against the original paint and it's an exact match. I have not checked the interior color as I've sandblasted and primed all the interior parts (actually may have one or two small items around), but I believe it will be very close to the original. You can also use ALK-201hardener with it. Here's the product data sheet from PPG. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I also use the PPG Shop Line acrylic urethane, covers very well, the top coat that I have used for a couple of different projects is called self gloss, it lays down real smooth and is high gloss right out of the gate. For your interior you probably want a satin or matt finish.
Last edited by 78buckshot; 04/04/202210:22 PM.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
We do a lot of paint work, so much we have two paint booths; a primer booth and a finish booth. There is nothing wrong with single stage but since we are not perfect we use cc-bc 99% of the time because it can be spotted in almost like the old lacquer. With single stage if coat is more than two days old any spot attempt will leave a halo.
Pretty sure I used the Shopline paint, it's the PPG single stage for sure. The picture of the cab dash is not the best, it looked really nice when I painted it, Two light coats, with drying time (per PPG) in between... The color I remember was a GM color, Light Briar Brown, I got the info here on the 'Bolt. Mike
KLHANSEN, that sounds like with I used , paint, hardener and reducer. (been a few years back )
Thanks guys for the information, lots of things to consider I guess. I'm sure there wasn't much of a gloss on the dash and interiors of these trucks, so I would probably go with a matt finish. I would like to see the interior cab color that Jim Carter sells before i make a decision. Sounds like the steering wheel and column paint he has is a good match - nice to know. I looked into the color that Mike mentioned, I had a spray can of that color and really liked it. Went to buy another can of it for a different project and found out it was discontinued (Dupli-Color product BGM0331). I'm sure a paint store could mix the color, but just needed a can of it at the time. Anyways, I will need to wait till at least the middle of May before there is warm enough weather here in Minnesota for painting, so i have a little bit of time to decide. Again, thanks for the info. and any more interior pictures of your cabs would be appreciated.
Jon, Thank you for that insight on the Halo issue, I hadn't known that. I'm currently up in the air on type of paint to choose, I want to do a two tone on the outside with a white roof and the dividing line at the cab line below the rear window. My truck is a small window cab 59'. I have a friend who says that the parting line will not lay down as flat with a single stage versus a CC-BC. I know that the truck will be painted in stages other than the interior, so that may be a factor as well. With A CC-BC at least a final clear can be applied after everything is assembled.
Please don't hate me but I'm not planning to use a factory color inside the cab, I want the interior to match the outside other than may the top of the dash itself. My color choice is a pewter body with a white roof and pewter interior with a black dash.
Last edited by TUTS 59; 03/18/202212:05 PM.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
My experience has been this: A single stage paint won't wear as well as a catalyzed paint...often by a long shot and if you're building a truck that will be used as a pickup, you need tough paint. A catalyzed paint almost can't be had in a matte finish. Some companies claim they make it, but it all looks very glossy to me. If you use a gloss finish in the interior of an AD truck, you may not like it. I figure that's why GM never used it. But there again, a few people think it is ok. If you want a matte finish for the interior, but you want a catalyzed paint (for durability), then do this: paint the catalyzed layer first and then go over it with a matte finish clear coat. As for color, that's a personal thing.
There is a PPG paint (MAE Omni) that comes very close to the original interior color. It is Brand Code: 4067, OEM Code: 63, M6253A, 8ZFEWHA, Description: Light Sandalwood. This was originally a Ford exterior color. Has less "gold" than some attempts at the original color I've seen and none of the green some seem to have. Have them add a de-glosser. 4 parts paint, 1 part reducer. It dries quickly and sprays nicely.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Please don't hate me but I'm not planning to use a factory color inside the cab, I want the interior to match the outside other than may the top of the dash itself.
I dug out my radio grille and it still has some original interior paint color where the stainless trim strips covered it. A previous owner rattle canned that blue on the interior. Unfortunately it looks like the interior paint I got from Jim Carter their PT107E isn't a very good match to the interior, as it's darker than the original and has a bit less metallic in it. The dots on the left of the photo are the new paint, and the dot on the right by the hole is the steering column/steering wheel color that was a nice match. Also are a couple photos I got of interior paint chips from TCP Global's Auto Color Library. I'm going to contact Jim Carter and see if they can send me a chip of their PT109 paint, which is described as "1947-1955 Interior Paint Medium Gray for Panel Pickup Truck as Original Chevrolet and GMC Pickup Truck" to see if that's a better match. Or I might see if the local paint supplier can mix me some from the original Ditzler color code (31174.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
x2 on the Nason single stage. I'm on about 10 years on my daily driver. Seems like a tough paint. It is time for a refresh, but... Pretty forgiving to paint with. Definitely not a show truck finish but it looks good and plenty fine for a driver.
I used Nason single stage on the interior of my 49 as well, it turned out well and haven't had any chipping. Color might not be a perfect match after drying, but close enough for me. Haven't done the outside yet as someone years ago hit it with some red Tremclad rust primer type thing, which I think will have to be removed first if I paint it, but if I do I'll use that Nason on the exterior too.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
If your not doing a restoration, and are looking for reasonable cost paint of decent quality, you might try this company. I have been using their products for a couple of years now. They ship direct from their shipping entity The Coatings Store, the paint shoots well, even for a backyard hacker like me with a hobby Eastwood hvlp.
For example, a nice butter yellow, base coat clear coat kit is $304.00, you get a gallon of color, a gallon of clear, activator and reducer. So if you are on a budget, this is a pretty good alternative.
I have painted a couple of projects with PPG Fleetline single stage. I don't know if that's the same as Shopline. It was happy to be color sanded, which helped my amateur surface texture enormously. Whichever you use, make sure you have moisture filter(s).
Thanks everyone for all the good info. and pictures, hopefully I can decide what I want to do in the next few weeks. Weather is just awful here, still colder than what it should be, and wake up to an inch of snow every other morning, nothing dries out. But good reading on all of the above, I do want to go with just a matte finish for the interior, just need to nail down the color.
I do want to go with just a matte finish for the interior, just need to nail down the color.
FYI, I had to have a local paint shop adjust the paint I got from Jim Carter. It was way too dark, compared to interior parts that were protected from sunlight and the PO with his crappy rattle can paint job. When I first went to ask them about lightening it, they recommended I do a spray-out test first, which I did, and it didn't come out any lighter. They got it to a close enough match so my interior doesn't look like a cave. If you have an interior part that still has original paint (inside the glovebox door, or under the trim for the dash) most good auto paint stores can do a match for you.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yikes! I just ordered 2 gallons of Mariner Blue from them, ASSuming they know their stuff on accuracy of products for our trucks.
Won't necessarily be a problem. I think my issue was a one-off. The steering column paint I got from them was spot on for color.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.