There were many different shades of gray (from lighter grays to darker grays) - these changed over the years and in different GM engine assembly/painting shops.
I had The Filling Station paint color matched at a local paint shop. BMW b87/ppg 940493 is what they came up with. Perfect match to the stuff i got from The Filling Station. Would have kept buying it from them but it's real expensive by the time it gets across the boarder. Not sure how close it is to original engine paint but it looks really good, dark grey that almost seems a little blue.
Yep, grey with a hint of blue. Here's a shot of my engine & valve cover freshly painted. If you think getting paint to Canada is bad, you should try Alaska. I made a road trip south and got all my paint from Jim Carter. Before that, I had a quart of paint shipped to me and it cost me $75.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yeah it definitely makes doing this stuff more difficult. I've spent almost $100 Canadian on getting a small $15 seal up here by the time shipping and duty is paid. I'm only a few hours away from North Dakota and Montana so if i have lots of stuff to buy i'll pick it up in the states, glad the boarder is open again.
Yep, grey with a hint of blue. Here's a shot of my engine & valve cover freshly painted. If you think getting paint to Canada is bad, you should try Alaska. I made a road trip south and got all my paint from Jim Carter. Before that, I had a quart of paint shipped to me and it cost me $75.
That's way light compared to the paint from The Filling Station shown below. Unless one's going after judging points it really doesn't matter.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Every manufacturing plant mixed their own engine paint. Slight variations but based on old paint on my block the closest match I found for mine was Ford engine paint in a rattle can. They use to make Chevy engine pain in a rattle can but is has been discontinued. Another interesting fact. I am not sure about previous years but in 54 if the engine was going into a truck it was grey. If it was going into a car it was blue. FYI - The oil filter in my picture is Chevy Blue and Chevy Orange.
Every manufacturing plant mixed their own engine paint. Slight variations but based on old paint on my block the closest match I found for mine was Ford engine paint in a rattle can. They use to make Chevy engine pain in a rattle can but is has been discontinued. Another interesting fact. I am not sure about previous years but in 54 if the engine was going into a truck it was grey. If it was going into a car it was blue. FYI - The oil filter in my picture is Chevy Blue and Chevy Orange.
Thanks, Dave
216 car engines were a shade of gray
235 truck engine paints were typically a shade of gray
261 truck engines (at least in 1960) were a shade of light green
235 car engines (1950 onwards) were a shade a light-blue - the Blue Flame Six I do not know if this color was only on Powerglide high-pressure 235 engines (sometimes called full-pressure engines by some people). The Blue Flame Six 235 was used in early Corvettes and as an option in cars.
"In 1937, GM released a new inline six with slight improvements in both durability and performance. This generation of six-cylinder engine is commonly known as the “Blue Flame” engine. “Blue Flame” was an advertising term used by GM in the ’30s and ’40s to describe the efficiency of GM engines.
"According to the advertising guys, a blue flame (rather than yellow) meant perfect combustion was being achieved. I n 1934 advertising in promoting the new 80 horse power engine."n 1934 advertising in promoting the new 80 horse power engine."
The name was actually only used on specific engines from ’53-’62, not the entire generation.
I think this name was only used on the valve covers of the Powerglide-transmission equipped 235 car engines?
That's way light compared to the paint from The Filling Station shown below. Unless one's going after judging points it really doesn't matter.
FWIW, the color matched what remained on the block originally under the crud very closely. But you're right, it doesn't really matter as no one will be judging my truck -- well not officially.
Originally Posted by dgrinnan
FYI - The oil filter in my picture is Chevy Blue and Chevy Orange.
I just repainted my S-2 oil filter. I had some really old Rustoleum Federal Safety Blue and bought some Rustoleum Orange. I think it matches pretty closely.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/15/20221:02 AM. Reason: changed pic
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I used Ford gray on my engine and oil filter in my ‘46, Ford blue on the body of the oil filter, and Krylon Gloss Pumpkin Orange for the lid on a Buick I’m doing. The filter canisters look pretty close to the photos I have seen of original coloration. I also did a yellow and black canister for my ‘50, which I understand was correct for ‘49, but was evidently added to it, possibly a leftover from a dealership.
I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
This is the Fram that was on the 1961 235 engine that I installed in my ‘46. I restored the gray AC for a closer to correct look under the hood. So now I don’t need the Fram or the breather.
I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
I made the decision to paint my newly acquired 235 with a light shade of gray instead of dark. Problem has been actually finding the paint. I tried all of the usual big box stores, the local hardware stores and even shopped online and always came up empty handed. Yesterday I stopped in a Tractor Supply store and found what I’ve been looking for᠁.. Light Ford gray. It’s the paint used on the old 8N tractors. I’m looking forward to trying it on the valve cover later this afternoon when it warms up. By the way, it’s on sale for only $4.99 until March 27. That’s about 30% off the regular $6.99/11 oz can price.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
JW51, I saw the Massey Ferguson gray paint at Tractor Supply yesterday but it was noticeably darker than the light Ford gray I chose. It’s not quite as dark as Rustoleum Smoke gray but not by much.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I made the decision to paint my newly acquired 235 with a light shade of gray instead of dark. Problem has been actually finding the paint. I tried all of the usual big box stores, the local hardware stores and even shopped online and always came up empty handed. Yesterday I stopped in a Tractor Supply store and found what I’ve been looking for᠁.. Light Ford gray. It’s the paint used on the old 8N tractors. I’m looking forward to trying it on the valve cover later this afternoon when it warms up. By the way, it’s on sale for only $4.99 until March 27. That’s about 30% off the regular $6.99/11 oz can price.
Pick your paint day carefully. While that brand of paint seems to be fairly tough when cured, it takes forever to dry and will need at least 2 coats for good coverage.
I learned that very thing. Decided to try the Light Ford Gray paint on the freshly sanded side cover to see how it looked. It’s not a real thick paint and didn’t seem to “stick” in a couple of places. I also noticed what you pointed out᠁.. that it does not dry quickly. I brought the side cover inside the garage to dry overnight because I didn’t want anything in the air to drop on the wet paint. After a couple of days the paint was cured and looked smooth and shiny like glass. It still looks wet! I’m real happy with the paint!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
A person could mix their own colors. As far as paint I think rustoleum (not a spray can) is better than dupicolor engine paint. You can also add a hardener to help it dry faster. Here is an example, I say don't use the torch though, electric heat gun if you think you need to dry it. I have used the Jim Carter paint and a foam brush with good results. So for gray, you can darken it up with black, lighten with white.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins