The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Hydramatic Steering column with S10 conversion

I am finally getting back to working my 54 3100 S10 conversion with the 504 kit. I am using the stock S10 V6 and the 4L60E. I want to keep the 54 steering column. It is a factory hydramatic automatic steering column.

Has anyone modified their stovebolt hydramatic column to accept the 4L60 shift “linkage”? How difficult would it be to replace the 54 Hydramatic steering column linkage with an aftermarket shifter kit?
I understand the two are completely different systems. I just like the original look of the 54 column and shifter and want to avoid a floor shifter, if possible.

Also, steering column adapter kits are available for connecting a stovebolt column to a power steering unit. The kits look basically the same, but some say they are not compatible with AT column linkage. What makes then not compatible? Has anyone used an adapter kit and the column shifter?

Your ideas and input is appreciated.

Do you have some pictures of the linkage you have? And the column itself?

Transmissions are not very smart so as long as the selector lever is moved to different positions it always responds the same. Your indicator on the column will not be correct as the early trans had low and reverse at the bottom of the pattern while everything from the 60's on has the PRNDL pattern. With the 4L60E there is the additional overdrive position but as long as you have the park, reverse, neutral and one forward position (drive) your good to go. Who can even REMEMBER the last time they used anything but drive in a street rod unless it's a dedicated drag machine. We use the factory 3 on the tree with our S10 conversions with automatics. Detailed pics available with a PM. Remember with the factory steering box gone you will also have to make a bottom of column to toe board anchor of some type.

Fibonachu,
I see you are in Nampa. We sold our business in Nampa and our home in Kuna, then moved to Florida. It got too crowded and we sold our house for an insane amount of $$!

Anyway, I don’t have pics yet, but I will get some in a few days.

Thanks!

Hi Scott. I am not trying to pick a fight, just asking: did your truck still have the Hydramatic in it when you started on your conversion?

A few words for thought.

Picture of what Coilover is referring to. The car picture is for a 50's PowerGlide transmission

The Hydramatic parts are rare.
There has been a couple postings of people who have the Hydramatic transmission and want to purchase the steering column.

If you plan to purchase a 1954 Chevy truck with V8 wiring harness then this normally comes prewired with plug-in connections to a standard modern steering column (typically a donor from a wreck yard).
If you use a stock column you have to make your own modifications and adapt for turn signals and emergency flasher.

"The Hydramatic parts are rare.
There has been a couple postings of people who have the Hydramatic transmission and want to purchase the steering column."

Thank you, buoymaker

Frank50,
I haven’t removed anything from the 54 yet. It’s still running and drivable. Getting closer to pulling the front clip.

Buoymaker,

Thanks for the info! My shifter indicator is unreadable. Nice to know what it says.

I am using the harness from the S10. Everything functioned before I pulled it out of the S10. Keeping my fingers crossed that I didn’t remove any wires that I will need.

My question about the pictures was at the engine compartment end of the column. I have built a couple converters to hook 4L60e up to other columns and might be able to offer a suggestion.

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/43920/Shift_Indicator_Dial_Hydramatic_Reproduction.html Here you go

I would love to find a complete 54 Hydramatic truck, that I can afford. And forget the S10 conversion. But it’s your truck! Good luck with your project. You should offer the 235 and Hydramatic for sale as a unit. The engine and trans are matched at the factory...

ditto

Scott from Idaho : did you start/run/drive the hydra-matic engine/transmission; and, did you drive it through all the gears?

Thanks &. Good Luck with your sales/buys/projects.

Scott from Idaho.

The reason for the question about, " did you start/run/drive the hydra-matic engine/transmission; and, did you drive it through all the gears?":

It's simply good advice. A known working transmission is much more valuable than an unknown especially this transmission which is extra expensive to rebuild. We can explain why.
If you can, take the time to test drive the truck. The shift from 1-2 is very quick (just gets the truck moving). The shift from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 can seem a bit harsh but this may be normal.

Also it is best NOT to separate the transmission from the engine. We can explain why. Take it out as a complete unit. The weight of the engine plus transmission requires a heavy duty lift.

Some thoughts about the wiring. Do you plan to replace the dash gauges?

The stock oil pressure gauge is mechanical. S10 electrical.
Stock has an ammeter. S10 has voltmeter and/or warning light.
The stock speedometer is mechanical but the donor transmission may need converter to get the speed right. I really don't know...just thoughts here.
The stock water temperature is mechanical. See picture. Handle gently. The gauge, tube and bulb are gas filled. Do not cut or crimp.
The stock fuel gauge is made for 6 volts and will fail if connected to 12 volts.

Fibonachu,
First, sorry about the long delay in responding. I didn’t see this until now.
I will keep you in mind when I get to the steering column.
Thanks!

Bouymaker,


Sorry about the delayed reply, I didn’t see your last comments.

Yes, the hydramatic works. The truck is currently fully functional. I too think it is best to sell the motor with the tranny. I will take a few videos of me driving it before I start removing the body. Hopefully that will make it easier to sell. And you’re correct, shifting 1-2 is complete 1/2 way thru an intersection and up to 4 is harsh!

I converted the 54 to 12 volt the day I brought it home, including the fuel sending unit. I found some modern gauge replicas but they are $$$$. Plus I really want the original look. That’s my goal᠁I want it to look exactly like a 54, until you look underneath or under the hood. It will however, sit about 2” lower. I even tucked the rear mount gas tank as high up as it could go without conflicting with the bed. The filler cap will run through the bed wood, but I will hide it by mounting a vintage, well used tool box above it. Unfortunately, there’s no way to hide the AC in the cab.

I will likely wire the S10 OBD II connector to a bluetooth adapter under the dash and use my iPhone and an app such as Torque. It’s under $40 and I can view every live sensor data, vehicle speed, rpm, volts, fuel level, etc. My iPhone has a magnet on the back and it sticks very well on the steel dash.

Tclederman,

Sorry about the long delay to your comment. I did not see it.

Yes, the hydramatic functions. Before I start removing body parts, I will video it driving and sell the motor/tranny together, as suggested by a few.

Thanks for your input.