The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1970 Chevy C10 - Grandpa’s Rebuild.

What an insight you buddy has! Yes that wheel has to stay!.

Yeesh. It’s been a while. A lot has happened up here in the last 5 weeks. First off, I got COVID somehow and had to isolate for 10 days. My positive came in right before school spring break so I didn’t miss too much school. Because of this, my class had to isolate as well and couldn’t be in the building but I could after my 10 isolation...(what?!) So that meant that they had to do online learning for 3 days mid week after break! Productive much? Right....


So school went back to “normal” and then totally unrelated cases were identified elsewhere in the community and school! We were shut down last week and have been doing online learning. Ugh. One day while doing online teaching someone tried to steal my Duramax and buggered up my passenger door. 9:30am. In an elementary school lot! A student’s mom (high school friend) saw him and told me that it was happening right now and where he was because he took off when my alarm went off. So, she and I took off in Maximus and I had that guy cornered with a baseball bat in a backyard and the only reason I wasn’t swinging for the fences was because I wasn’t 100% sure he was the one. My friend was in the truck calling the cops. If she had said, “That’s him!” I’d likely be in jail. I was literally “not there, blackout” mad. He ran inside his buddy’s house and went out the back and I lost him. The cops eventually picked him up and charged him, but THEY HAD to release him immediately after because of our backwards justice system. I love the cops and their work, but their hands are tied on the rules.He has a court date in 2 months...oh good. (Sorry moderator, I’m done) We know who he is though...keep tuned kids. I sure like how Batman deals with stuff. I had to pick and pull a handle and they are a PITA to get out of those doors. You basically rip the whole door apart to change the outer handle. AARGH!

So that was a big curveball. During that time, we tried to have our daughter’s 2nd birthday party but because of new in place restrictions she again got the short end of the stick for her birthday. A drive by donut/coffee stop was our answer, but it just wasn’t the same. I know she won’t remember, but I will. I feel like I’ve let her down, even though I know it’s not in my circle of control.

In the meantime, I finished the intake on the C10. i just need to make a little bracket to bolt to the alternator mount to stiffen it up. Not beautiful, but functional as I maintained the stock MAF sensor. I only had to buy the filter as my bro in law had piles of scraps from our time building rigs. I had to build an adaptor to fit the MAF and then a 4” for the KN filter. I hope it works.

I also finished painting my wife’s Rambler’s rims and mounted the new rubber. We also polished up the old hubcaps. A little elbow grease goes a long way. Hey, Doyle?!

Intake done...for now. Let’s hope it clears the radiator and electric fans.

Last night I applied some filler over the patch I put on the rear cab beltlime. Tonight I began blocking it out and it is looking quite good. I epoxied before I applied the filler as I like the peace of mind knowing it’s sealed under the filler. I will have to touch up a few blend lines but it is coming well. Little things are getting done and my parts are in Winnipeg and should be here by Friday. Oh doggy!

Some parts arrived for the C10. Majority for the Rambler though. Electric fans(look like they’ll clear the intake), inline billet fuel filter, and these...


Spendy? Yes, but they look even better in person. I’m so glad I bit the bullet and ordered these gauges. Man, they’re sharp.

Radiator should be in tomorrow and I’m gonna try to get it mocked in place with the fans and fuel system. Then comes wiring stuff up for initial test fire of LS. Soooo...check back in about...what? Say a year?

Bahaha! I am moving slower on this truck than I thought. Family, children, work, juggling life, covid. It’s a surprise any of us can get anything done.

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

My arm ached for weeks, nice patina for sure!
Stay safe.

Hey Fox;

Those gauges look great, are they refurbished or aftermarket?

Either way they are going to finish the dash.

One bite at time is right, slow and steady᠁

Steve,
They are aftermarket Classic Instruments.

I patiently waited on my rad and related parts, but they weren’t actually shipped so I had to wait another 10 days. I was set back but it was ok. Parts have arrived, look great, and I began wrenching.
Rad in. I have to notch the original hold down clamps as they are round, and the rad tops are square.
Rad shroud mounted.
Electric fans measured, drilled and mounted. And yes, they clear the intake as it sits!
Power steering hoses built and installed.

I will have to get new hoses to mate up to the engine. I will also build a couple sections of piping,like the intake, as I like the look of it and don’t want a 3 ft long rubber hose snaking over to the inlet. It should clean it up a lot.

Hours are up to 374.

Radiator crossover tube built. I also used an old 6v coil bracket to hold my fuel filter. I had to cut out a bit of the circumference and weld it back up as it was too big. Fits like a glove now.

Hours :376

The hat really completes the look . The tube looks clean and fits nicely.

Nice clean install! Keep up the good work!

I removed the rad crossover tube and welded a bead on the edges to prevent the hose from slipping off when clamped down. My wife came in and said, "You didn't do anything."

Sigh... 😂

The temperature has finally settled back to normal-ish here. Today was 26°C. Thank goodness. Everyday last week was 35-40°C (95-105°F). It was uncomfortable. My kids didn't understand why they couldn't play in the sunshine those days. Bloody dangerous it was. Many places here don't have AC because 25°C (77) is a pretty warm day up here. My family and I have been living in our camper because it has AC.

Anyway, today my wife and I went to the farm to go dirt biking and then afterwards I tore into my parts '72 C20 for a sway bar. Everything was going smoothly until I shook the yellow jacket nest with my boot that was under the RH inner fender. Suddenly, wasps were swarming and I was scrambling to get out from under an old truck that is overgrown with grass about 2ft deep. I didn't get whacked and had to spray bomb that nest and allow the spray to dry off the truck before I continued making sparks as I removed rivets on the frame. The nest was about the size of a large cantaloupe. Ooo, they were mad! Interesting wrenching on old field trucks, isn't it?

But I got my "new" sway bar. I will blast and paint the pieces and hopefully have it installed soon. I also laid out a work space for tearing down the Avalanche harness for that LM7 engine. I think I have my ducks in a row and will be doing that next alongside finishing up the fuel lines.

What a cuss show these last few days have been. Ugh. Our hot water tank finally wet the bed, so to speak, and needed to be replaced. My wife noticed our hot water wasn't being produced as it normally does, so I checked it out and it was leaking underneath. It was over 20 years old, so it was due but it doesn't make my wallet feel any better. We noticed it Wednesday, so I got a replacement on Thursday, and all the while made a few calls about installation. Most of my calls weren't returned, and if they were I was told, "We don't work weekends." So, no hot water (water period), as I removed the old tank and isolated the house water. I said, "Honey, point me in the right direction and get out of my way. I'll do it myself." I had us up and running. Saturday morning. That was a rewarding shower, let me tell you. At least it was +25°C and not -25°c. I would be so upset if it was the middle of winter. Whew.


In the meantime, I worked on the c10 front end. Sway bar blasted, painted, and mounted with new bushings. I tore the wiring harness open and it is slowly, slowly becoming an organized rat's nest.

Man, oh man, I'm moving slowly...

Gong show update coming soon.

1 step forward. 4 back. First things first tasks. Busy as a bee and nothing getting done (truck wise). And now $14,000 down....but that’s not too bad!


Stay tuned!

This August has been a real show. It has been super hot and we have been doing lots of little trips and camping with the kids. In addition, dad and I have been working on the north fence line. We had a logger, skidder, and trackhoe come in and clear a road allowance that will never see any development by the county (we have written permission by the way to do so!😉). The bloody bull has been visiting the neighbors whenever we switch gates. A new line was long overdue. So, fencing right? Hold your horses. Nope. That means we have to fix the tractor because the brakes quit working and those are important when pounding pipe post on a hillside! But before that, we had to fix the air compressor when its motor cussed the bed so we could work on the tractor. Then, we had to repair the field welder for doing pipe corners we borrowed from my bro in law because the carb was completely gunked. Next, we repaired the ground cables because they were thrashed, see?! Fencing! Fun, isn't it?! It is always an ordeal it seems. I'm sure I'm missing things in here.

So, I have been fencing, working on my wife's Rambler (slowly), little trips, fixing the house (h20 tank), and building a new "playhouse out of the crookedest" old bones of a playhouse we got for free. It is crooked by 4.5" over 6’. Terrible to work on. Every piece is custom cut now. Shingles were a pain to get straight(ish), the trim, the cedar shakes, the recycled spruce shiplap from the old granary, all terrible to line up to any decency. But, rant over. 😉 Holidays... man, they get eaten up quickly!

As for the C10, yes, I have been trying to do stuff, but I have hit a major blockage. The intake I modified has a hairline crack in the plastic weld I did. I didn't notice it until I removed the cab after building all that intake stuff. So that SUCKS. I don't want any thing dropping into the engine and grenading it, so it will be coming off. Try again I supposed with another pick n pull intake. Ugh. At least 5 steps back here.

Perhaps I'll get those fuel lines done, but ambition was kicked in the boys when I saw that crack.

On the upswing though, I placed an order for the remaining parts on this truck. ALL OF THEM. Needless to say I have some spring in my step. Most likely because my wallet literally puked its guts out doing so.

I will likely pick that up in a couple weeks. Yay!

It has been a roller coaster this month. Now, school is about to start up again... sigh...😔🤪

I feel your pain. I worked a lot more on the rear sway bar than I had originally thought. In the end it will all work out, progress is progress. Great build.

It has been a while. A long while. It has been ridiculously busy at home, school, and the farm. Yard work, gardening, fall clean up, planning,marking, fencing; the list goes on.

In the meantime; I picked up a donor intake from pick n pull and redid the intake shaving, another pile of work. My welds and technique seemed far superior this time. I was able to check my penetration on a trial run and then my first couple passes and I think I have it done very well. I primed and painted it. I have reinstalled it and I am now exactly back where I was a few months ago. Ugh.

On the bright side, the writing harness has shed a lot of weight and I will be slowly buttoning it back up and moving a couple things around like the MAF sensor.

I also picked up a PILE of parts but haven’t opened that Christmas box just quite yet. I know if I do, I will turn my back on the tasks I’m working on right now.

Slow as...but still going forward...finally.

This is the trailer half full! 😎😬😊

Hours sit at 387.

Once again, it has been a while!

But I have gotten motivation back up and got some things done now that report cards are finished.

PCV line bent with 3/8” tubing. I flared the tips and installed the hoses over top. My fuel line stuff arrived and I plumbed it in from the rails back to the fuel filter and tank. I have to grab some clamps to hold the line to the frame rails. I installed the transmission cooler lines to the rad. The fittings I have to enter the transmission are not quite right so I’ll have to get an adaptor. I’m so glad the supplier assured me they were correct.

Next up, I will begin building the engine harness fuse block. I have the parts I need now. I have been slowly getting them in here. But first I want to put the cab back on the frame so I can rough in approximate locations of the wiring and ECM & fuse panels. In order to do this, I have to finish fabricating in the rear crossmember for the coilovers on my wife’s Rambler as it is sitting directly in front of my shop door on jack stands! I got that started tonight.

Truck hours-389

Rambler rear end back on 2 wheels after a long spell. I have to adjust the coil overs and mount points but it’s done enough for now.

I pulled the c10 cab out of the snowbank and lowered it back onto the frame. It was a little difficult maneuvering the cab down as my gantry crane was frozen down to the pad. But I did get it down and squarish. The fuel lines clear the firewall just fine. Whew. I haven’t touched the harness for the engine in a while (I’ve been reading), so I began to build a bracket to hold the LS ECM. I think mounting it behind the LH headlight would be a good spot. I want to go to the farm and take pictures of my parts truck, puzzle box kid, 72 Chev to see if there are any things I can’t think of that might interfere with its mounting in this location.
If it’s good here and clears the headlight bucket from the rear, I hope to build a little side bracket for relays and such off the LH side. It will be visible, but won’t be conspicuous like it would be if it was mounted on the inner fender.


Here’s the plan...

I cut and welded on another tab for the ECM mount and then welded a 1/4” nut behind the tab to secure it to the core support. I had to extend the core support lip towards the rad a few inches so I had somewhere to drill the hole. Next, I filled a 1/2” hole where the top right mount tab is on the core support. I then welded in a 1/4” nut to the core support flush with the back surface. It bolts in and out very easily and I believe that 2 will hold this just fine.

I checked the parts truck and it seems that nothing from the headlight assembly or relay there will get in the way. There were a couple horns on the parts truck, but I can simply move those on this c10. I think the location will work well. Hopefully I don’t have to extend wires on the harness too much.

Just in case I’ve ordered a new crimper!

Hours 391

Tonight I shuffled some parts around and began a few things. I modified the fuse block I got for the engine harness, as the side relay wouldn’t clip down fully on it. I zip cut it slightly and presto. I also cut some angle iron tabs to weld to the ECM frame to mount the relays & fuse block.

Then I began working in the garage on the box. I dug out some sawhorses and lumber and began to build a frame for the box to be assembled on. I cut open the packages and began to mock it in place. I have noticed in places on these reproduction bedsides that the black primer that the parts come in has flaked off in places. This is going to significantly add to the time budget on the bed as I am going to strip that black stuff off and prime it with some epoxy. Epoxy was a given, but I don’t feel laying any paint over this stuff would be a good idea. I would hate to put in all that time and effort just to have the paint flake off.

Edit: after a little inter web reading, I am going to try to apply some lacquer thinner to a few pieces in inconspicuous places. I’ve read that if it is a good EDP the thinner won’t touch the edp. If it does, I have some stripping in my future.

EDP primer checked out. The thinner did not soften or remove it so I’m assuming it’s good to go. I began scotch pad scuffing certain areas of some panels in preparation of laying down some Endura epoxy primer. It is tough stuff. We used it on our drilling rig builds back before I shut that down to take a full time teaching position. I also ground/filed/sanded out some rough edges and lips that looked like they would interfere with assembly on the wheel tubs. I opened up the RH bedside to prep the mounting surfaces. The panel looks VERY nice. I was nervous about shipping dents/damage and am happy to report there is just one little bonk on the bedside above the wheel well. I can’t reach it to hammer and dolly so it will get a small coat of filler.

Having box loads of fun here!

Hours 394

Hey Fox;
I had an issue with my new sheet metal as well. I had given mine a light going over with the sand blaster, then a sander with a degreasing wash before applying the epoxy. I still had an issue with the shipping primer flaking later and ultimately had to sand blast them down to bare metal to start fresh.
Testing with the acetone may be a good check, I don’t know for sure. What alerted me to the de-bonding on my parts was the use of an air blower to remove the sanding dust. The air got under and edge where the sanding had broken through the epoxy to the shipping primer underneath and it flaked off.

Best of luck,
Steve

Ah Steve! You’re killing me! Good to hear a first hand account. I think I will heed your advice and strip the edp, at least in the areas where paint is visible.

Dad came over this morning and helped me assemble the box for the C10. It is quite special when he wrenches with me on this pickup. I have loosely mocked the sheetmetal in place for the box. Being reproductions the holes line up, well let's just say, not perfectly. The front bed panel holes and the bedside holes were off about 1/4 of a hole each way. I die grinded out what was necessary to get the bolts to slide in easily. Those two mate up areas are good. The inner tubs were about the same. I will have to stretch a few holes on the tubs to get them to line up with the bedside, but it isn't too bad. The little rear splash guard under the tubs is a different story. They aren't even close. I do think I have to fire up the MIG/TIG and slice and dice these two panels to fit well.

I sanded down areas that will be primed with epoxy and lightly painted before final line up and tightening of bolts. The LH bed side has made my indecision of stripping the panel a mute point. The panel looks like it has rust scale or the primer went over a chemical of some sort. The primer looks like it has little lichens under it. Needless to say, all that black crap is coming off.

Anyone want to comment on how easy/difficult their edp was to remove? It sanded easily enough...

Here's how she sits tonight.

It's funny how I got this truck from my uncle in a draw, sold it to my cousin, bought it back 16 years later...

My brother told me today he wouldn't hesitate to buy it when it's done! "You should sell it to me."

"Nah...then I won't have a truck to race you with," I said. 😎

Box torn apart, cleaned, coat of epoxy on the “in between” panel areas.

1. I will lightly sand this as this primer is tough stuff, then apply a light coat of black and bolt it back together.
2. Put on truck frame.
3. Square up and install tailgate for fitment.
4. Remove tailgate.
5. Install bed wood/test fit.
6. Complete the last few feet of the exhaust.
7. Modify (or get some from the parts 72) the rear tub slash guard and check fit.
8. Weld panels to rear cross sill once happy.

Lots to do.

Hours 396

Going on the frame soon in order to finish exhaust.

The 2nd pic shows the look for the wood I’m after. It has been “aged” to look like old barnboard. Then I’ll burn the family horse brands into the wood on Grandpa’s old truck and ooo doggy!

I love that color on the finish, the family brand will be a great touch.

I don’t know if you know this trick for aging wood to look like barn wood, so I’ll just go ahead and tell ya! Take a wire wheel on a drill and go over the board with the grain and it will remove the softer wood between the grain, aging it several decades in minutes. You can vary the amount of wood it removes (and the amount of aging), by the pressure on the wheel. Try it on a test piece first to see if it’s to look your after.

Love the idea of the family brand,

This weekend Dad and I squared up the box as best we could. It's about 1/16" out corner to corner. We then tried to put on the tailgate to attempt square up the gaps and vertical stake pocket posts. This is where the "reproduction" fit reared its head.

Problem 1. With the trunnions in place the tailgate sat too low and couldn't adjust high enough to be flush with the top of the bed side. No big deal. A little die grind of the trunnion holes and I got the necessary up and down.

Problem 2. We closed up the tailgate. Left side looked ok. Right side had problems. The tailgate jams up against the stake pocket post. As it closes, it hit the post near the bottom. This pushes the tailgate out severely, rubs paint, and when closed the top of the tailgate is sticking past flush of the rear by 1/4- 3/8". Very difficult to line up and close.

Solution?

I think I will need to cut down the stake pocket pillar, remove material and weld it back up.

So, in the meantime we changed gears. I wanted to get this bed onto the frame so we cleaned house a bit and put it on the trailer and moved it to the shop so mods can begin. In order to place the box on the frame, the bed wood has to be in between the cross sills and the bed sides. If not, the bed side simply drops down and rests on the frame. The floating sills work against you here. So my pa in law cut me some 3/4" plywood fillers so I can weld, slice and dice with it in position.

Problem 3. I noticed that with the bed wood kit, and an under bed fuel tank, I won't be able to get the nuts on the carriage bolts that bolt the bed to the frame at this location. To do so, I would have to drop the tank and pull line, unhook wires, etc. My fix? I drilled some holes and die grinded an access port so I can get the nuts on the carriage bolts. Tight? Yes. Finicky? Yes, but it should work better than dropping the tank.


Problem 4. The right rear tub doesn't line up with the bedside rear holes. There is a noticeable gap where you can see the hole in the bed side flange. With wood in place, it sticks out like a sore thumb. I believe I will have to cut this tab, and build a new one to fit.

Ugh....progress?

Yes, but always 3 forward, 3 back , 2 forward, 1 back...


Arghhhh! I just realized those access holes are redundant. I will have to drop the tank in order to secure the rest of the wood hold downs that are anchored to the sill...directly above the tank!! Frick.

See how I'm correct about my step theory?

Fox,

With regard to issue 3, if it makes you feel any better, you are not the only one that has had that problem. Moved the tank on my 51, 3100 to the rear and mocked everything up with the bed in place. The access to install the bed strip hardware above the tank didn’t cross my mind. After the truck returned from the painter, I reassembled everything, leaving the bed wood for last. That’s when I discovered I had no access to install the bed strip hardware above the fuel tank. I had already filled the tank checking for leaks. With the truck running, one of the strips rattles like crazy. I have the type of bed strips that the hardware doesn’t show from the top.

That was right before winter set in and I haven’t had a chance to drive it and use up the gas. Come spring I’ll get back to driving it and get the fuel level down so I can drop the tank enough to get the hardware installed.

At least you discovered the issue during the build phase and can correct the issue before final assembly. Hopefully, raising this issue will help another bolter avoid some of the three steps forward, two back aggravation of the build process.

Keep up the good work.

Thank you.

I hear ya. One thing I’m glad about is that my new tank has a drain plug. I don’t understand why any tank wouldn’t have a drain bung.

That was one of the deciding factors when I bought my tank, the Mustang tank I'm using has has a drain on the lower front corner. I'm glad I read up on your thread about access to the bed board hardware, I'll need to work that out.

Tonight’s in the dark adventure. I’m sure glad spring is just around the corner. The melt is finally beginning. We still have a PILE of snow around here.

The rear of the cab body lines are VERY close to the bed lines. Once I put in the bed plate shim, I will need to shim the rear cab mounts about 1/8” to get the lines perfect. Not too bad for cutting out the entire bottom 6-8” of an entire cab.

I included a picture of the rear right tub where the holes don’t line up well. This is an area I believe I will have to rebuild to get it to fit without the wood showing.

I decided to run the remainder of the exhaust out behind the tires.

Reasons,

1. I don't mind the look.
2. Burnout smoke will propelled straight sideways. 😁
3. I don't have the rear bumper to mock up straight out the back.
4. I have the pieces necessary (sort of) to run out the side.

So I didn't get much done tonight. A lot of thinking, then more thinking, decide, reevaluate, new choice...

Anyways, it took about a hour for me to decide this route with the pipes. I had the necessary pieces present to do exactly what I wanted, but only for one side.
So I dug into my scrap pile and pulled out the center portion of a previously cut 180° exhaust pipe. It sure helps when you keep scraps for over a year! I had cut the middle out and flipped the outlets to make a step up pipe to clear the trailing arms. (See earlier posts). This left me with 2 180° bends to attempt to make 2 45° bends. Well after marking, checking, rechecking, remarking, I think I've got what I need.

I had other ideas, but I think this will be the cleanest look (apart from a pro shop) I can muster. I want everything to look nice, even if you won't see it.

That one little 45° on the end is what took me so long to decide. 🤦🏼‍♂️ It's not a straight in shot as the pictures seem to depict; I will have to cut the down pipe and carefully line them up butt weld style as the front pipe will be above the point shown in the picture.

One side is tacked and awaiting weld out. I’ll do that when the other side is finalized in its final tack position.

I went to my pa-in-law’s tonight and used his planer to take down some rough birch lumber I have to trial run wood stains, laser brands, and such. I like it when my list of things to do checks off big boxes of instant gratification. Wiring doesn’t do that in the least until it’s all done.

Exhaust is done. Whoop whoop! I’m very pleased.

I finished mocking, measuring, tacking, and finish welding both sides tonight. I also decided to make the exhaust hangers easier to remove. With the length of the sections of this exhaust, removing it would be a bear. The little L/J hook would be a bugger to pull out of the rubber holder. So I welded the bolts (or nuts) to the frame that hold the hangers on. This way I only have to remove the hangers and the whole section will drop and I won’t have to fight with curves and length while trying to pull the section out of the hanger rubber.


Hours: 402

More reproduction fit problems. I mentioned this earlier but the rear tub splash pans behind the rear tires fit like cuss. With the mock up wood and cross sill in place, trimming welding and refitting will be necessary. Also, in order to help get the tailgate to line up, a little slicing, dicing, and welding is necessary on the box sides. But first I will need to remove the rear cross sill in order to doctor the bed side holes to get more left/right movement to help square up tailgate to bed side lines.

Plus something shifted slightly when I welded out the exhaust and the left side pulled 1/2" or so. So I will remove the last leg and adjust it. It almost interferes with the rear splash pan I'm now working on.


The list gets bigger the further in you go...🤦🏼‍♂️


Are you sure you want to restore these old girls?

🤟🏻🤪🤟🏻

You must be on spring break to be able to jump in and do all this in the past week!
Nice job maybe Steve and I'll have to make a trip down to see you real soon.
Doyle