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I have heard tell of people modifying the back end of a 235 block to bolt in a metal housing that accepts a one piece modern lip seal. I can't seem to find any info on it. Anyone know what I'm talking about?


Sort of stock 1950 Chevrolet 3100
235 (The engine shread) (Engine assembly)- 4 speed - 12 bolt - stock front axle with power disc brakes
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you can also just get that area bored to accept a rubber lip seal, I have the number somewhere. It was like $40 to get it machined, great improvement.

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See here.




1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
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Nice tip,
Thanks for the info!
Grigg


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1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
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I thought there is a rubber lip seal available from the parts stores for the 235.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret.
I thought there is a rubber lip seal available from the parts stores for the 235.
There is, but it's a two piece seal and still prone to leaking to some extent. I've had my troubles with them in a 55 model full pressure 235.

The machine work and single piece seal looks like a perfect solution to me.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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[quote=GriggThe machine work and single piece seal looks like a perfect solution to me.

Grigg [/quote]

X2. The number can be seen in one of the article's pictures(CR-38649).


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Not to open the whole rope vs lip seal debate but this looks to be in a category all on it's own. To me it seems like a good way to go, has anyone here done this mod?


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When I get home from work I will look int it more. I think Deve has done something like this and I will look up his site and refresh. He has a ton of information

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Yep, and at least half of it is somebody else's work. I actually do the seal conversion myself and made the adapter fixture that attaches a cylinder boring bar to the back of the block, which is where he got the idea. Ask Cosmo how his engine is doing since I machined it for a one piece seal. Attribution?
Jerry


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I'm sorry if I stirred up some bad blood I didn't know about. I had my '51 out and the heater wouldn't work and it leaked oil like a sieve. I only wanted to find a way to fix it. I will probably end up doing a complete overhaul for a truck I drive less than a hundred miles a year, but it was dad's.

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Originally Posted by Sweetietheswede
I will probably end up doing a complete overhaul for a truck I drive less than a hundred miles a year, but it was dad's.


Reason enough for me!


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1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
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Originally Posted by Sweetietheswede
I will probably end up doing a complete overhaul for a truck I drive less than a hundred miles a year, but it was dad's.

If you're willing to haul that bare block to middle Tennessee, I will be glad to machine it for the lip seal- - - - -no charge!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
I actually do the seal conversion myself and made the adapter fixture that attaches a cylinder boring bar to the back of the block, which is where he got the idea. Jerry

This reminds of that old saying "When your only tool is a hammer...everything looks like a nail."

Here's a video of the conversion process done on a Bridgeport mill...still primitive but no fixturing involved. A horizontal boring mill or machining center can do it in a fraction of the time. Providing the video to a machine shop should be adequate to obtain a quote.


www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmZsh8qMBdw


I personally know the Inliner who did the research and provided the block/cap for that now deleted Engine Builder magazine article nearly 2 decades ago. Anyone else who feels they invented something is mistaken.

Last edited by klhansen; 11/03/2024 3:51 AM. Reason: Removed embedded video

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The setup on a Bridgeport takes hours. I'm making cast iron chips in 45 minutes or so.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
The setup on a Bridgeport takes hours.
Jerry


Maybe for you...if one of my apprentices can't square up the pc, clamp it securely and dial the bore within 15 minutes he's looking for a new job.


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RingLeader Saw a machine shop in Costa Mesa that offers that seal work it was 175$. Our resident Hot Rod Lincoln has done it. Ask him about it.

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Sweetie I'd load that block and head for Dellrose


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