Hi all! Picked up a gem of a low mileage (7500) farm truck (C60 dump truck) from Texas last week. Lots of good things about the truck, but with such low mileage, there are issues that need to be addressed. I have searched the forums, but the various results are getting a bit overwhelming to keep organized. I am hoping that some might be willing to help me get this truck to reliable function around my small town.
Details: -'65 C60 dump, cab tag (pic attached) has 19,500 GVW, C15 2spd Rear axle 6.40-8.72, 157 wheelbase, 5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?) -crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original -Intended for demolition/landfill runs over the next six months, then use as a Main Street touring vehicle for visitors
I need the following help: -Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?
-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!
-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?
-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?
I want to use this truck for its intended purpose, and keep it running for a long time coming, as I do with my others. But now that I've entered the medium duty truck world, I could really use the guidance/help of those who have been here before. Thanks in advance for anything you can provide to help me keep this one on the road.
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Just noticed the really obvious tech tip on the wheels...going through that information now.
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
58 Caddy Sounds like your wiring just has a few things crossed-up. Would study it for a while,it only takes 3 wires to the rear to get brake,tail and turn signal lights. Great low mileage truck good luck.
5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?
Post a picture of the shift pattern on the gear shift knob
Originally Posted by 58caddy
-crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original
ALL Chevrolet engines except for the 292 use the same motor mounts.
Originally Posted by 58caddy
I need the following help: -Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?
Keep the original Master Cylinder, re-engineering the brake system is not worth the hassle. There aren't any kits made for the big trucks. Drums are made out of unobtanium, turn your drums as long as they are in spec and move on. Master and Wheel cylinders might be available new or can be sleeved and rebuilt. Replace all of the steel a rubber lines, they fail from the inside out.
Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!
Looks like you have the Firestone RH-5 rims...they were outlawed decades ago because they are dangerous...ton of reading here, do a search.
Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?
Have the fuel tanks "hot tanked" or chemically cleaned out and then seal them if necessary. Buy a new sending unit to match the tank depth and gauge ohm value.
Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?
Any pickup truck wiring harness will work, you'll just need to extend the wires to the rear if they are short. I've used American Auto Wire harness kits on my last three project and been very happy...they make all kinds of kits. I found it was easier to just tear all the old wiring out and start over with everything new including the fuse box...
I posted this over in the other forum but may as well here also.
The trans should have a tag on the side. It should have all the info you need on it to figure out what it is.
Brakes I can't help with as I have air.
You'll have to look at harnesses from another 1965 truck, a C30 for instance. I could not find anyone that could guarantee the whole harness would fit my 1969 C60. I looked up all the wiring from a C10-30 and what I found was most of the wiring was the same just a different color or route, not all of the harness worked until I replaced everything with the C30 harness. I delt with this place http://www.wiringharness.com/ and took the gamble. If you call them they'll get you taken care of and tell you what harnesses you'll need. All and all it cost me just over $1k for wiring. They custom make each harness and take forever to do it. I was emailed every excuse in the book about lead times.
Be sure to also replace your 2 speed wiring on your shifter, if it hasn't gone bad yet it will soon. That can be bought elsewhere for around $50 if I remember correctly.
I added a used 50 gallon fuel tank to my truck and after draining and playing hell trying to get it clean I ended up draining it and power washed it then used my shop vac to get as much water as I could out. Then power washed it again and again. Multiple fuel filters and a final cleaning it hasn't given me any other issues. I have a 1/2" drain at the bottom of it to allow crud to fall out.
Ohm your sending units, they may work just fine. I wouldn't be surprised if your float fell off or has a pin hole in it after all these years.
Thank you guys for the push in the right direction. I'm going to get working on the brakes and chasing the electrical, as well as hot tanking the tanks I'll update along the way
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Mike is correct on harness except front turn and parking light are separated using single element bulbs, C10 didn't have turn signal on side, but had 1157 double element in hood. If you go with stock brakes I may have some info,Pat
My research shows your rear (6:40/8.72) only came with the Clark 2653V 5-speed, but the 1st and reverse positions on this trans seem to be reversed, so I'm not sure what you have...
We need Kenneth "crenwelge" to chime in and ID your trans...maybe send him a PM with this picture and see what he knows...then let us know!
Pat, im sticking with stock brakes, so any part numbers? I found another thread that has Raybestos numbers WC37042 and WC18196 for upper and lower cylinders on the rear, but that’s as far as I can get. I’d love numbers for shoes, and front cylinders. I assume it just best to rebuild the booster? I’m completely open to suggestions. I almost always prefer stock, but I also prefer to stop. Let me know any suggestions and/or part numbers. Thank you for offering to help.
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Mike, Hmmm, gotta love a good mystery trans. The only other clue is that the PTO knob has the Spicer script on it, but that’s just a knob and could easily be a replacement.
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
58caddy, here are part nos. From my notes wheel cylinders (2) centric 13480022 rear upper. (2) 13480016 rear lower. Left front centric 13480010. Right front centric 13480011. Another no. Rear lower Napa 37095. Front brake line left and right h36697. These numbers are from my notes on my 1966 l60. My master cylinder is split brake hydraulic clutch , you likely have single master cylinder. I replaced my hydro vac from napa 51-8001 at $242.00. Please check to make sure will work on c60. Good luck Pat66
This is very helpful, guys. Pat, thanks so much for the numbers, I’ll get right on checking those today.
Definitely gonna work with my booster. Last resort is replacement. I prefer to keep things as close to original as possible.
"The arts, like sex, are too important to be left up to the professionals." Robert Shaw -1912 Ford Model T -1939 LaSalle series 50 imperial sedan -1940 LaSalle series 52 coupe special -1949 Chevy 3800 Panel truck -1958 Cadillac series 62 hardtop -1958 MG A -1965 Chevy C60 dump truck -1971 Chevy C20 Cheyenne 402 -1982 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
What axles do you have? The 5k lb front axle uses brake shoes that are 14x2.5 and (as of 2019) were still available new from Centric, PN: 111.02990 Dynamic Friction also produces these shoes, PN: 141254-06103383
If you have the 15k lb rear axle your shoes are 15x4 and they are unobtanium. Your only hope is to work with a big truck service to have your current shoes re-lined or the 1/1mil chance that you happen upon a NOS set from an old guys shop or farm.
If you have the 17k lb rear axle your shoes are 15x6 and again, in 2019 were available new from centric but the part number escapes me at this moment.
58 Caddy On your brake booster would service it and give it a chance,they are durable and it may work fine. Get a service manuel it will tell you a lot.
Your gas tanks can be hot tanked at your local machine shop. Once their clean have the shop heat the tank with a torch so it doesn't flash rust, then buy liquid gas tank sealer to prevent further rust.
If you are a "DIY" kind of person, you can clean your tank yourself fairly easily. Muriatic acid. Neutralize with baking soda. Cheap, fast, safe, and the inside will be sparkling when done. I have done this and used liquid liners afterward.
I guess this is kind of an old thread, but the best way I know to identify a transmission is by the shape of the case. Chevrolet offered Clark, Spicer and New Process transmissions. Here are some drawings of the cases. I don't think the shift knob is original. In 1965 it was expected that the driver would figure out the shift pattern. It was later that they started marking the shift knobs in the larger trucks.
