The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Anyone here plumb their bypass filter with hard line?

I have a small, annoying leak on one of my soft lines.

Sure - - -just use a long enough piece of tubing to put a 360 degree vibration loop in both lines. Don't use hard lines if the filter housing is mounted to the body instead of the engine.
Jerry

Wonder what a grease gun hose is temp rated for? It’d be 1/8 NPT on both ends and I have the swivel fitting for the connection to the pressure side on the block.

I'd suggest getting a hydraulic shop to assemble a piece of "single braid" hydraulic hose with the proper fittings. It's temp and pressure rated far above anything engine oil will ever see. a #4 line will have a 1/4" ID which will have plenty of flow for a bypass filter. Most single braid line has a working pressure rating of around 3K PSI.
Jerry

You can get push-on fittings and hose rated for at least 100 psi at any good hydraulics shop and most parts stores. No hose clamps needed, so easy to build whatever lines you need.

I plumbed a 1958 235 oil filter with hard lines once. I thought it looked and performed well. Not exactly "stock" looking but the lines are so low in the engine compartment that nearly nobody including myself noticed the "mod".

Looks good, Paul. Is that 5/16 line?

I think it was 5/16. It plumbed up to the engine and filter without too many adapters, it was pretty clean.

After dealing with hose fitting leaks, I plumbed mine with Ni-Cu tubing and am happy with the results. I didn’t install any vibration loops and my reasoning was that the filter is hard mounted to the engine so there should be minimum flex in the tubing and the tubing is bent in multiple planes that should absorb any expansion and contraction issues. I did that over a year ago and so far no leaks.

I went with the push lock style for today just to make it quick. Probably circle back and do hard lines later.

Phil that looks good ,wish I seen this before I ordered the replacement lines. Are the fittings from the new lines not that good .Years ago I went to a hydraulic shop and they made up some lines that are still on the truck I think they are push on type .I haven’t had a problem with them but that was in 1988 so that is why I decided to get the new lines .

No, but I used hard lines to re-route the filter out and through the now unused fuel pump hole so I could use a spin-on filter. I can always add the old bypass filter if needed.

Phak1 Used break tubing on a homemade throw-away filter,double flared it,worked fine no loops.

The hoses and fittings came from Classic Parts and the fittings were not machined correctly, so they would not seal no matter what I did. Cheap overseas manufactured parts.

I would hope that lines made up by your local hydraulic shop would still be good, even today, as they would go out of business if they sold leaky hoses.

Oh boy I will have to look at mine they also came from classic parts.

JW51 Mounted a throw away filter on angle iron base bolted to the block,lines were short brake line,works fine.

Gorgeous work Jon G and others᠁I love the anti-vibration coils.
I would have never thought of that.

Phak 1 Done it that way 20 years ago,still out there,flared with a Ridgid double flare outfit.

Just a suggestion for people who choose to use flex lines- - - - -install a couple of 6" long black iron (NOT galvanized) pipe nipples into the block to extend past the exhaust pipe. Getting a flex line too close to the exhaust could result in a melted or delaminated line, and a major oil leak that could destroy the engine if you're not accusdtomed to checking the oil pressure gauge frequently.
Jerry

Any issue using a brass nipple instead?

All of the fittings I used on my bypass filter are brass so it’s not an issue.

Brass pipe is e$$$$$$pensive. I'm a cheapskate.
Jerry

Perhaps I've been working on old British motorcycles too much lately (big parallel twins shake pretty good) but I wonder how long a pipe nipple you could attach to the side of the block before vibration would eventually crack it. I've dealt with the heat issue by insulating the flexible line with pipe insulation and covering that with heavy duty aluminum foil. It doesn't look tidy but it saves the line from nearby exhaust heat. I've done the same thing with A/C hoses that run near the exhaust side of the engine and found the A/C works much better on hill climbs after insulating the hoses. So, I expect it works on the oil line. I haven't had to replace one in a long time.

I did use copper line for the bypass filter at one time but eventually it cracked despite the vibration coils I bent into it. It was mounted on the manifold. When it broke I couldn't find a 1/4 inch pipe plug in my tool box or lying around at the rest area but just then a trucker pulled up and asked if I needed anything. I told him I needed a pipe plug and by golly he had one. So I was back on the road in about 15 minutes. Whew!

Copper work-hardens over time from repeated hammering or vibration or bending. Then you have to anneal it with heat and a quench to soften it again. So be warned about using copper where it may be subject to vibration, such as long runs of it inside the oil pan in a critical application like an oil pump.

The next time I plumb my oil filter lines I’m going to try something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1246970318...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Nice job I was never a good bender