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I see mine looks the same but the bracket is welded in a different spot .The filter housing is thick metal may be able to grind off bracket and rotate the filter then re weld ,but that would mess up your nice paint . Curious does inside your filter have a spring or spacer.

It's so close, I just need a male/female fitting to extend one end of a line by about 3". Anyone know what size/'thread these lines are?

They could be straight fitting threads or tapered pipe threads. Looks like the one down toward the rear of the block with the tee fitting might be tapered.
You'd need to undo them to really tell.

Do they sell straight brass pipe? Be nice to keep the metal the same. Here's the fitting:

Workaround...

I like it.

Going to replace some gas/vac lines. Are these double flanged?

Yes that’s a double flare

New tattoo for 2022. It's abstract and I call it; "Frame painting from below"

LOL!

I have sported a few like that. The eventually wear off.

Picked up some stainless to do new fuel line. With the glass-bowl pump, do you really need to put a filter inline?

Yes a filter would be beneficial some use two one under the floor near were the tank line comes out and one before the carb but after the fuel pump.you should check for dirt and rust in the tank before installing the new line and whatever else you decide.

Any suggestions on a generic filter that will be easy to always replace in the future?

I have use this before my carb and ordered a few of these as they were cheap and use the basic filter inside that can be replaced .the replacement filters are readily available fairly cheep.You have to make shure you get the right line size.you could go to Canadian tire with the size and match it up i have done this before and found some of the throw away ones are quite pricy.my truck has not been run in 5 years so can’t tell how well they worked.hopefully in spring.

This fitting can still pivot after everything is tight. Is it going to leak? The other one likes this has the rubber line connected directly into it and it no longer wiggles...

I think you have too many joints in there. It's hanging out there quite a ways. Can you remove the two fittings your index finger is pointing at and put the brass nipple directly in the tee? Both should be tapered threads and should seal nicely when snugged up.

I put the nipple in to move it away fr the block and the exhaust, hopefully it's not in the way. I wil swap the nipple and that fitting, that should tighten it up.

Got me the good stuff:

Pretty sure it was completely empty, curious to see if it makes a difference.

Can these filters be cleaned? Or are they replace only?

Is the distributor all the way down? Does the valve sit right on the bottom? Or raise it up?

Stainless tube, thanks to Deve's tutorial. I can feel it touching the pan or something at the bottom, hope it's right!

Going to keep posting questions, since I'm still moving forward

I changed the position of the oil pressure sensor fitting and the line to the oil filter. Any issues doing it this way? Or is it too much force on the sensor? This way better avoids the exhaust.

That picture is of a nasty looking u-joint yoke.

I don't think that the dipstick should touch the bottom of the pan. It might eventually wear a hole there with enough vibration. Maybe someone will measure their dipstick and tube in relation to the block for you.

Crap, should be this pic:

That should work fine if it gives you more exhaust clearance. The pressure/flow doesn't care which direction it's told to go.

Awesome, will break out the Teflon tape and make that permanent.

On to this:

Old rubber sleeve was pretty distroyed, so way too much play. You can see the dust shield dug into the hanger:

Wondering if I can get a grinder in there if I add some weld to make it smooth again...

So, I have a new tip for the oil pressure line:

There seems to be a tiny flare on the end. Do I cut this line, slide a new one on slide the tube all the way into the fitting them tighten the tip? Or do I need to pit a small flare on the end with a small point?

That type of fitting is a captive ferrule type. You shouldn't need to do anything to the end of the tube. I would carefully ream the end of the tube to remove any burrs from cutting the tube.

A quick question - are you using the attachment manager to include your pics? If not, you should, so that they're visible right in your post and we don't need to click on the link. Maybe it's what you're using to post them (phone?).

Yep, always use attachment manager, phone or PC, it never seems to work for some reason.

Are you getting a message that the file is too big when you try to post photos?

No messages at all.

Maybe it's the Canadian to US translation, Eh?
Sounds like a job for Paul. I just posted a request for him to look at it in the IT short bus forum.

This just in:

Going to plumb it in next to the carb. One question I have is in regards to the oil filter. The support rod from the firewall to the fender passes right overhead. Has anyone had any issues pulling their filter out? I'm wondering if it will clear it once the fenders are reinstalled...

Mine is close but not overhead, does your oil filter have anything inside besides the filter like a spring or spacer .

Ok, looks like the support rods will widen out once the fenders are back on. No springs or spacers in my filter, hopefully nothing is missing!

Mine does not have any either it is a Canadian filter that is why I asked not much imfo on the net for them.

Does the filter look like this?

Looks like the one .there are a few that fit I used to get krawlinater k55a ,fram if your Canadian tire stocks the are decent price.Napa has the wix .measure the one in the picture and I will double check my fram one I have in the box

Temp sensor bushing, Teflon tape in both sides?

Wrap teflon tape on all the male threads.