Our ‘49 pickup was missing the “Chevrolet” badge and also the “3100” series hood badges. There are holes were one of the missing badges goes, I assume the Chevrolet one, but I don’t see any holes for the 3100 badge. Also the holes are on the PASSENGER side of the hood. I thought the “Chevrolet” badge placement was on the drivers side? Thoughts anyone?
You may have an earlier hood. 47 & 48's only had the Chevrolet/Thriftmaster emblem on both sides of the hood. 49 & 50's had the series number below the Chevrolet, 51 & 52 had just the Chevrolet emblem, 53 & 54 had just the series number. 55 first series got a combined badge with series number on top of Chevrolet. You can see the differences here. If yours is truly a 49, you can drill the mounting holes for the series number emblems.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I verified the VIN number and it has a number then the letters “GP” which I understand from the Stovebolt identifying your vehicle site stands for a: ‘49, 3100 series, 1/2 ton, 116 wheelbase truck.
Yep! G=49. Somebody swapped hoods. Triple check before you drill. A crooked emblem/badge sticks out like a sore thumb. If you are not particular, you can just purchase the emblem that fits and save the drilling.
If I remember correctly, they are held by thin spring clips. The studs on mine had worn out (grooved) and there wasn't much surface remaining for the clip to grip. The emblem was loosely held and would rattle. I finally ended up using rubber-backed PAL or retaining speed nuts (used on more modern cars and trucks).
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Another option on hood badges is to grind off the studs and use adhesive after painting. It gives you a better chance to get them on straight. Most modern cars use a double-stick product on the badges. The hood could also be a later 51 or 52, or if there are only holes on one side, one of the hood halves could have been replaced.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
SuzieQ I may have the 3100 hood badges you need. Somewhere in my garage. Got them in a bag of 'Stuff' along with some tf parts I acquired, long ago. PM me if you are interested & they are yours----you pay for the ride.. delky dave in WYO
Take a look on the inside of the hood for indication for where the old holes for the 3100 badge might be. The guy who did the body and paint may not have finished the inside of the hood as well as he did the outside.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
That is something I hadn’t thought about (hood panel being replaced). I like you technique with the glue. I may have to do it that way. I saw someone else had mentioned that. Really appreciate the info. Thank you!
