SuziQ, you have to save your video to a video hosting site such as YouTube, then post a link to the YouTube video in your post here. You cannot post a video directly.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Check the plug wires- - - -you've made some kind of a mistake in the firing order! (1-5-3-6-2-4, clockwise) If that's not the case, there's a sticky intake valve.
Do you have snow? We've got a couple of inches so far! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hi Jerry, good call on the firing order - I checked the order 3 times yesterday but somehow (after Steve and I was fussing around with the motor until about 1 am this morning), I checked it today and it was off - We had 1-5-3-6-4-2!! Steve took the distributor off once and also pulled the plugs to torch the ends like you suggested and he must of accidentally hooked up the last two incorrectly! Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking with it! LOL I wanted to ask about the lifters. Some of the rods are loose and some aren't. This truck does NOT have hydraulic lifters does it? I think I read somewhere all trucks were solid, not hydraulic. ANYWAY, do we need to adjust the lifters? Just thinking of things that might help. Do you use the feeler gauge to do that? Is that what's called, adjusting the "lash"? Steve says the screws are already up pretty high on some of the rods. We certainly don't want to drop a rod in the crankshaft!! Hey, I may be asking dumb questions but I don't want to damage my '49's 235 engine!
Just a light dusting of snow! I'm ready for winter weather as long as it doesn't drop below 32, Im good! ðŸ‘
Thanks!! SuziQ
Last edited by SuziQ; 01/03/20224:02 AM. Reason: correction
Like everything else, "there's a procdeure for that". I've got my owm process that I've used very successfully for 50-something years, but you'll find all sorts of "expert" advice on how to adjust valves. Yes, the feeler gauge is used, but there's a shortcut to get in the ballpark for waking up an engine that is "close enough". Just under your username at the top of the page, there's a small magnifying glass icon. Click on that, and search for "companion cylinder valve adjustment". (Yes, use the quotation marks) It uses a procedure similar to the one we tried during that marathon phone call, watching the valve springs move. to find top dead center of the #1 cylinder. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
OK- - - -found it! That search function would drive a saint to alcoholism!
Here's an alternative valve adjust method I've used for over 40 years:
Companion cylinder valve adjustment
Turn engine by hand until you observe #6 exhaust valve closing. Continue turning until #6 intake begins to open. (Called "rocking", valves moving in both directions at once) This happens at the top of the exhaust stroke, with the piston at, or near TDC. #1 cylinder, both valves, can be adjusted at this point. Turn until #2 cylinder rocks, adjust #5. (Each time the engine turns 120 degrees, another cylinder will be at TDC, ready to adjust). Turn until #4 rocks, adjust #3. Next 120 degrees, #1 will rock, adjust #6. Rock #5, adjust #2. Rock #3, adjust #4. All 12 valves can be accurately adjusted in 2 turns of a stopped engine, hot or cold, and no oil spilling!
This works on any engine with an even number of cylinders. Easy way to remember which ones to rock/adjust: Write down half the firing order, then write other half underneath it: Chevy 6:
1 5 3 6 2 4
1 & 6 are companion cylinders- - -rock one, adjust the other. Same with 2 & 5, and 3 & 4. Quick, easy, and it works!
For an initial startup, don't worry about using the feeler gauge. When both valves are in the "ready to adjust" position, loosen the lock nuts on both rocker arms, gently turn the adjuster clockwise until all the clearance is removed, then back up the adjusting screw 1/4 turn, and snug the lock nut. That puts just enough clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem to make sure the valve gets fully closed.
Each cylinder MUST be at the top of the compression stroke before trying to adjust the valves on that cylinder. Call me if you wish, and I'll walk you through a quick valve adjustment. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Great!! Lol Thank you! I appreciate it since my search turned up 1000 matches!! 🤪 Can’t wait to try this. Making sure the firing order is correct EVERYTIME I go to test it.
Contrary to popular opinion, a "firing order" is not an instruction by the boss to hand out a bunch of pink slips! LOL!
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I am new to the site and wasn’t here a year ago so assuming that comment wasn’t intended for me! Lol Yes, the firing order was correct for most of the time. It was just after Steve (my husband) pulled the distributor and cleaned the plugs that he did not connect the last two up correctly and I did not check it before we made the video. Firing order is absolutely correct now! Going to check points and attempt to adjust lifters next thing today before trying to start it up again. Will video! I will put the link to our YouTube channel in case anyone’s interested in seeing our progress from the beginning. Thanks again guys!! Excited about her firing up the next time we try it! SuziQ
Instead of continuing to try to give the fire department something to do by pouring gas down that carburetor, let me suggest that a small auxiliary gas tank like one for an outboard boat motor would be a good investment. A 1 or 2 gallon plastic tank with a squeeze bulb primer is a much safer way to get gas to the carb, and if you plumb it in upstream of the fuel pump, the pump will probably start working. You can also crank the engine from the firewall side by putting a pry bar or a long screwdriver between the starter linkage and the firewall. There's no need for somebody in the cab to push the start pedal that way. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Did you take the distributer out ? I know you said two wires were crossed and was curious if you tried after wires put on proper. Good idea to check the valves to see if they are all free .Also maybe compression test would be beneficial.Your getting there narrowing it down hope to see it running soon
We're educating rookies here, guys. The "cap" is part of the distributor, right? It was static timed and had the points set a couple of days ago during a long phone call. There's plenty of spark from the coil center wire to ground during cranking. 120+ compression on all cylinders, so the rings and valves must be pretty close. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
SuziQ Sounds like you need to advance your timing a little,but better listen to Martin be sure your valves are free to move could save you some expensive damage. I use chain saw mix to prime with not so dry.
Great call on blaming your husband on the firing order situation. You beat him to the punch. Its clear to me who is the sharpest knife in the drawer at your house.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Yes my husband took the distributor out a few minutes before the video. We did compression test and are getting 120+ psi all cylinders. By “wires” I meant the spark plug wires. The last two were not in the correct firing order in the last video. Learning curve, guys, I’m a RN and Steve’s a product manager with FedEx. It may not be obvious but we’ve already learned a ton since August, trust me!
If we joke with you, it means you are one of us for as long as you want us. We are used to inexperienced owners. At least you are listening to us and making a great effort and success. We were ALL there. We ALL still learn. We ALL make mistakes
Thanks Bart! I’ll confess, I’ll be learning until I’m six feet under. Life would be so boring otherwise! I took an Italian language course at Ole Miss in 2018 I was older than the professor and loved every minute of it! The “kids” (students) all embraced me and was so sweet and kind!
Help us out here- - - -if the entire distributor assembly was removed (not just the cap and wires) There is at least 10 positions it can be reinstalled. You will need to go through the timing-setting procedure by watching the #6 rocker arms again and getting the plug wire position synchronized with the #1 cylinder compression stroke. I really hope he only removed the cap, not the whole distributor!
Unless the flat tab at the bottom of the distributor shaft is aligned with the slot in the oil pump below it, the engine won't have any oil pressure when you finally get it running! Lots of engines have been destroyed by that little mistake.
If a man makes a decision out in the middle of the woods somewhere, and there's not a woman around to disagree with him, is he still wrong? My Mom had a classic saying- - - - -"Yes he's the head of the family, but guess who's the neck that turns the head?" I really miss both of them! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, I didn’t see him take it out or reinstall it, but he says he did it because we were 180 off on the timing. He says he reinstalled it correctly but now I’m concerned if there are 10 positions it can go in᠁geez. What should we do now? Short of hiring a mechanic? Love that analogy! Sounds like your mom was a character! I know you miss them! I miss my dad as well!
Don't need a mechanic, you have a couple hundred here. You just need to check it first. I have a method, others have methods. You are in an off line contact, so we will let him tell you. It's not hard to do. I thought you checked it? Did it get taken out after that? Anyway, once you get it set or close. DO NOT REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR!......or things like that without Stovebolt advice. Don't bang on a starter with a mallet. Don't remove starter without removing wires/cable first. (saw those things on your videos) Don't work on anything electric without removing negative battery cable.
Ok Sounds good! Thanks. It may be correct but I’d rather be safe than sorry if it can damage motor. Jerry do you want us to call you tomorrow? If so we can call between 12:00-1:00 when Steve’s on lunch break or after 5?
Call me the next time you have a shop session- - - -I'll talk you through how to get it installed and timed correctly. That gear on the bottom meshes with an identical gear on the camshaft, so any one of the teeth can engage. That gets the point cam and rotor out of synch with the cylinders and camshaft. You can fix a "180 out" situation by simply swapping spark plug wires in the cap- - - -no need to remove the distributor from the engine. I'm a lot more concerned with making sure the distributor housing drops all the way into the block and engages the oil pump drive.
A lunch break isn't long enough to install and time a distributor correctly by a phone conversation. I can do it in 5 minutes, but I installed my first one in 1962! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Bart, yes I showed Steve the info you sent. I know he bought an oil pressure gauge and installed it. Again, I didn’t watch him install it. He does things without me being there sometimes but I’ve told him 4 eyes are better than 2 since were both learning! Anyway when I asked him just now where he installed it, he said, “inline with the oil filter”. But that’s not where you indicated if I remember correctly. I’ll go back and review that post. Steve said the gauge showed no oil pressure but he thought maybe truck had to be running to bring up pressure.
He can put a temporary gauge at any location on the pressure side of filter. That is the top hose. You can tee it at the filter or down below as in pic. You can just plumb it with fittings, don't need tubing. He is right you won't get pressure until it starts running. Monitor right away, above 10 psi and climbing with revs. That will be later when timing is sorted. Just wanted to know if you did that yet.
Bart, he says our truck didn’t have a tee fitting going into the block like the one at the lower right in your photo, so he took the oil line off the canister and hooked it directly into the pressure gauge with a fitting to get the reading.
Sure, no problem. I'm pretty much limited to the length of my oxygen hose for a while, so I won't be far from the phone. My wife spends a huge amount of time talking to her sister in Ohio who has an "unlimited long distance" phone plan, so if you get a "we can't take your call right now" message it means they've got the electronic umbilical cord hooked up. Keep trying! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Bart, he says our truck didn’t have a tee fitting going into the block like the one at the lower right in your photo, so he took the oil line off the canister and hooked it directly into the pressure gauge with a fitting to get the reading.
SuziQ
Well hate to make so many "mounds" out of so many mole hills, but as Jerry said, you are new to the hobby....so.........yes he can Tee in a gauge there at the top hose inlet port. As in: inline, as Steve said. The motor is a full pressure oiling system motor (1959) as opposed to a bypass system. But the filters used are bypass type. There is a "restrictor" I believe necessary in the system. It seem that if there was no tee fitting down below, that the previous owner (PO) did not yet plumb the gauge in? Eventually the tee will go down below. Wait for verification/clarification of that info from others. Restrictor size changed in 1959 and if a different head was used on a 59, their need to be the proper restrictor. We have to be careful with what you have. The missing tee may or may not signify an issue not address by PO.
