The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Archived Journals 1948 Chevy 3/4 ton - Poncho

Sounds like Amazon. :rolleyes:
So you're not a Ferd owner?

Not a 1954 f 100 2005 ranger

Can anything be done to change out the seal on the exhaust flange? I have a new one, but perhaps this is a job for a muffler shop?

It should come off with a chisel I have never had a problem they are softer than the pipe .maybe big waterpump pliers and twist it off might work before using chisel.

Guess it's a non-issue, because the manifold is on a different angle than the original. I will have to get a shop to rebend or remake it.

If you got to torches you can heat pipe cherry red and if it only needs a little bend it will bend just have to be careful not to kink.you could put the pipe on manifold heat then pull the pipe up or down depending on we’re you need to bend it ..that is of course if it is unattached to the rest of the system at the back.

Ok, I will likely take it in to get the exhaust done

For the throttle linkage, the 216 linkage bolts to the block where my finger is:

261 block does not have this hole. I'm assuming I will need to use the 261 linkage, but it's further back, so how do you make the pedal rod work with it?

I kept a copy of these ,I don’t know if they are for a short box or long box but they may help when at the muffler shop between the old parts and measurements .These we’re posted by someone on here sometime ago

Thanks, I'll bring those in with me when I get back on the road.

We’re your finger is on your picture it looks like the bolt hole was plugged, maybe scrape some paint away to see what is plugging the hole could just be crud under the paint unless someone had a reason to fill the hole .here is a picture of a block from the net and it has the same cast with the threaded hole.

That forward hole on the 216 goes into the water jacket, so you should be able to drill and tap there, if there isn't a hole. The boss toward the rear by the freeze plug isn't drilled and tapped on my 216. But whether the linkage will work in either hole depends on the length of the lever arms and the shape of the rods.

Maybe the Canadian block is different. It doesn't have the oil bypass pin either. I'll probably end up modifying the pedal rod. I would have to drill and tap behind the manifold.

Ok, I have room to get a bit in there to drill and tap the block. Can anyone suggest the size to drill/tap it to?

Also, the 216 has a longer pin that pushes the butterfly out away from the block, but the one off the 261 is shorter. Do I need the longer one?

Do you have the Rochester carb ,my 54 with a newer 235 has the throttle linkage by the frost plug .I have a spare 235 engine also 1958 era and it has the throttle pin still in it but it is in the hole that is plugged on yours .my linkage on mine goes straight up and lines up with the carb.I know the older trucks had a different cone t to the gas peddle.

The linkage that came with the 261 works fine, except that the pedal rod is too long. I think a tap is best, as I won't have to modify the original linkage at all.

Here is a picture from the net ,this is what mine looks like

I have all those bits. What does your pedal rod look like? Do you know if it was modified?

I did nothing to my peddle rod .I think there is a difference between the older ones but I think it is just at we’re it attaches to the peddle . I will double check to see if anything looks modified on mine and maybe see if I can measure the length.

Took a few more pictures ,didn’t measure but the engines would be sitting in the same spot .if you need I could take it apart to measure the rod but it’s chilly today . Don’t see any mods to any of the parts. The peddle in the cab is high because it is not connected to the carb so when it is connected the peddle is lower.

Good pics, thanks for that. Do you know if the rod is a ball and socket at the pedal, or held in with a pin? Looks like either I need to tap, or find a '54-? rod, like yours...

I will look but think at the top ball(we’re your toe would be) and at bottom pin(we’re your heel would be )

Took a few more .also took picture of the other hole on the engine in my truck there is a bolt screwed in and here is the other block . The gas peddle I think are different on older trucks not shure of the years .

Guess that settles it...

Used this to get around the manifolds:

Not perfect, but it will work. Straight through into water jacket so I guess lots of Teflon tape to seal it up...

Oh, and no ball/socket under the pedal, so that might be the difference.

Ok, next questions; does the distributor and draft tube have gaskets? Also, how the heck does the dipstick tube get seated in this thing?

The dip stick and draft tube are pressed on and if I remember correctly I put a dab of aviation gasket on mine .the draft tube should also have a bracket with a bolt to hold it in . Your distributer should have the advance that clamps onto it and I think it has a o ring but not 100 percent on this one maybe someone else will verify

Should dip stick tube have some kind of stopper ring? It's totally straight, nothing to 'seat'.

I don’t think there is any stop for the dip stick tube I think it will only go in so far my guess 1/2 inch I also don’t think I here is a o ring for the distributer I looked a my spare and doesn’t look like there is anything .

Kevin,

Is this where an o-ring might go?

I did find this:

https://partsavatar.ca/1968-1973-ch...ZOux96t__RKD_fu1YsZp06-3FcMaAgkAEALw_wcB

Does anyone know what these clips on the side cover are for? It didn't have any lines in them when I picked it up and I can't see what would go here:

I don’t have those on mine maybe for vacuumed advance line . There are some links in here about the distributer and I don’t think there was any gasket or o ring as it can hinder movement of the distributors vacuums advance and you would want to be careful that the distributer goes all the way in as it drives the oil pump .

Do I have these oil lines backwards? I may need to move the filter to the rear if I do...

Does your filter have any information stamped on it .I ask because mine is a krawlinater. and if yours is the same I will have a few questions for you.

No markings on it

Okay thanks.In regards to your oil filter I would find out some more imfo about your 261 ,is that the filter that came with the motor , some of the engines had a pin that made a difference for the type of oil filter ,I am confused at yours as does not look like it has the pin so just guessing that maybe your motor is a lot newer but either way I would look into it and make shure there is going to be enough oil flowing when you start it up .

This one came out of a '60 Pontiac, so the air cleaner hung down low in the front of the manifold. That's why the lines don't fit, I need to move it back where it belongs...

Okay makes sense now good to see you got the right filter with the engine.I like the green Pontiac used for there engine

Ain't this a kick in the pants... It hits the steering box:

Move it forward of the carburetor.
[on edit] I see now that you had it there. Longer hoses would be a fix for the hose issue.