The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (Possum, cmayna, Joe W, UtahYork, Greg_H, FAST55, rfs56trk), 527 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,776
Posts1,039,271
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1429571 11/08/2021 10:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
I have a problem. My truck is leaking brake fluid in 3 locations, the MC, and from both sides on the rear axle. I have been using this truck to haul off debris from a house I took down. This last time as I was getting ready to take a load to the dump, I checked the brakes, the pedal went to the floor with no resistance. I checked the fluid and the reservoir was empty so I filled it up and tried pumping the pedal a bit, but nothing changed. I saw that the level went down a bit so I added some more fluid and gave the pedal some more pumps. This time the pedal started to feel just a smidge more firm but then quit coming back up. I traced down all the lines and noticed the three leaks, the MC leak is slow compared to the rear (drive) axle. Both sides were dripping pretty good. I assume the wheel cylinders need replaced. I have never worked on a truck this big before and a buddy tried to tell me that it would be a big job and that I probably shouldn't tackle it myself and should pay someone else to do it. I like to do my own work, what's the hardest part of this job? What are your thoughts/advice?

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
If you can find new cylinders, use them. It isn’t worth the labor to go through the old ones if not need to be done.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
Hy OldSkoolRedneck, I think you could do the brake system overhaul, but be aware that the components are large and heavy. Some special tools make the job go easier, but there are other methods. Hydraulic brake systems in the seventies were changing and sometimes it can be difficult to determine just exactly what you have and what you need to replace/repair. I would strongly suggest you replace all the hard(steel) lines and the flex(rubber) lines as well as all components that need replacing. Ask whatever questions you have and we will do our best to guide you through the process, good luck.

Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
Oldschool Redneck Would do my own work,If oil seals are not leaking would try not to disturb them by remuving the drums if possible. If that works wouldn't fill the differential with gear oil leave it 1/2 inch below the fill hole,when level and cold. That will keep from asking so much of the seals,little awkward working around the hubs,however brakes soaked with gear oil are no fun !!

Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Thanks for the advice, I think it's going to be a long process for me, though. Between all the other projects I have right now and the weather, I might not get as much time as I would like. But we will see how it goes. And I will definitely be asking questions as I go along.

Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Hey guys, I got some time to start working on things today, just after the tornado warning. I jacked it up and pulled the wheels off, but that's as far as I got. I am stumped. I have never worked on anything like this and have no idea how to tear any of it apart. I didn't see anyway that I could access the wheel cylinders without removing the drum, but can't figure out how to remove it.
Attachments
16396267860665792051467765400992.jpg (174.52 KB, 99 downloads)

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
You have to remove the bolts on the end of the hub and pull the plate or axle. Then you can remove the bearing nut and pull the hub and drum off as a unit.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
OK, that makes sense to me but I has that cap off and was confused about how to pull anything. In the center the is a threaded hole, do I thread something into it to be able to pull it out? I should have taken a picture of that too. And do you have any idea what size that bearing nut is? I should have a socket to fit it but I'm not sure.

Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 7
Nevermind, I just figured it out.

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
We all have to learn those things.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,451
OldSkoolRedneck That's the way to go at it,fix your own brakes just follow the book and you'll get it figured out.


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.162s Queries: 15 (0.090s) Memory: 0.6399 MB (Peak: 0.7442 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 15:34:45 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS