My 1-ton GMC 1947-54 shop manual does not show a drum or axle flange gasket in any of the cutaway illustrations for 100 thru 280 series trucks. However my front drums did have a gasket but the rear did not. My rear hub seals have apparently failed since the wheel rims have oil running down both sides and there was a good 1/4 cup of fluid in each hubcap. There is a very small amount of fluid inside the drums but I can't tell if the shoes were contaminated. I already made 4 drum gaskets using gasket material. What opinion do the rest of you bolters have; should I install the gaskets even though none of the literature shows or specifies them?
I found suppliers for axle flange gaskets for 1951 and up but 1950 is not shown listed. I went ahead and ordered a pair anyway, FEL-PRO 55350. They are thin aluminum. Same question; should I add them?
We went away from gaskets in the late 80's. A thin layer of silicone usually takes care of business. The only place we currently use something is on the Ford F450, 550 rear axles which were designed for an o-ring. Which works well.
Thanks for your reply. I already have the gaskets. Are you saying you would forget them and use silicone instead? Removing the drums was a true nightmare with no adhesive sealing them to the hubs. The root of my questions are does anyone believe the addition of gaskets would create any problems. (Adding them will result in a slightly different contact location at the pumpkin ends of the axles).
Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm picturing a floating axle system for the one ton. If so, and you had gear oil in the drum, that would mean a bad hub seal. If you have gear oil on the rim, the axle flange isn't sealed to the hub. Axle flanges to hub take a gasket or you can use a thin film of silicone. Drums, whether mounted inside with studs to lock them in, or like modern times, slide from the outside over the studs, assemble to the hub dry, no gasket or sealant.
Putting a gasket on a floating axle typically makes no difference in the pumpkin.
There is a very small amount of fluid inside the drums but I can't tell if the shoes were contaminated.
The shoes ARE very likely contaminated. You can TRY to clean them with Brake Clean, but it won't work for long.
That pic is of a bearing lock nut, and the tool to remove it. I thought this thread was about gaskets and/or seals. Mark's post explained where each are needed.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yes I posted this on the wrong thread. I think the shoes are ok, the fluid didn’t get on the part of the drum where the shoes contact it. If I do have a problem at least I am now experienced at removing the hubs and have the right tool.
