The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Mounting the bed to the frame. Order? 1950 3100 stock frame.

The bed is painted and now it's time for the next step, but what is the next step. Mount the bed to the frame and then add the wood, or place the wood in the bed and then mount the bed to the frame?

Second question, what height are the mounting blocks supposed to be. I've seen 2.00" many times, but the blocks I have measure 2.30". The rubber pads I have are 0.25". There is lots of talk out there. Does it matter? My truck had the original blocks and like any good pack rat I saved them and they measure 2.00".

In order to bolt the bed to the frame, the wood will need to be in place, as the bolts go thru the wood (as well as the rear cross-sill I believe.)
You could set the bed on the frame and then add the wood, but there'd be more stuff in the way of bolting the bed strips in.

I am trying to figure out if you can mount the wood in the bed with the bed off the truck sitting on some horses and then move the bed to the truck and them bolt it on? I can't find any videos of someone doing this. Can it be done that way. The reason I want to do it in that order is some of the bed strip bolts are difficult to get to with the bed sitting on the truck. It seems it would be easier access to build everything off the truck and then move it there.

I would actually think that's the preferred way of installing the bed wood. The one thing I think you need to be careful of is that the bed is square when you install the wood. Taking cross measurements should ensure squareness. I used an engine hoist and ratchet straps to lift my bed off and move it around. I stood it on end to provide easy accessibility to the bottom. Of course my bed isn't in very good shape, as you can see, so I didn't have to worry about damaging it.

If you have the entire bed assembled, grab 3 buddies, some cold ones, and lift it on. Its not too bad. I've removed beds this way.

I have also installed a one ton bed without the bed wood in with some pals. Getting the bolts in weren't too bad under the truck either.

I think it is preferable to install the wood boards with the bed off the truck, especially if you have added some items under the bed area that obstruct access to the bed strip bolts. Thats how I mounted my bed and it worked OK. If I do it again I would assemble it on sawhorses and leave all the boards and bedstrips attached but not tight. Then place the bed on the frame and line up all the bed-to-frame bolt holes. With the bed on the frame and measured square and with the bed-to-frame holes lined up, I would tighten enough of the bed strip bolts to keep the boards in the same position and then remove the assembled bed back to the sawhorses to complete tightening all the bolts. Its extra work but helps assure proper alignment when you finally place the bed on the frame. Even with the bed measured square if you tighten everything on the sawhorses first it would be possible to have the board bed-to-frame holes shifted and be difficult to install those bolts.

Mark

Always good to see another use for the engine hoist. I used the hoist to remove the cab as well. I wish I had thought of this for the bed.

So I have a question about the wood blocks. There is a lot of inconsistent information out there. The blocks I bought from The Car and Truck shop measure 2.30”. The rubber pads at 0.25”. I have the original blocks and there measure 2.00”. I’m thinking just clean up and reuse the original blocks. How many of those are still out there. But the real question is why are the purchased blocks 2.30”? Devestech says 2.0”.

I’m not sure if it matters on the order just get it square before it all get snugged down. But I still listening…

Let me know your thoughts.

Kevin thanks for the reply. My question was more around making room in the garage. It may look like I have lots of space but that is an illusion. Plus if the beds on the frame, less chance of getting scratched. I appreciate that there may be challenges in attaching the hardware, but if that is my only challenge I can work with that.

Yes, agreed there is a lot of inconsistent information. The real answer is a little more complicated. The stack up height of your cross sill, cross sill bracket, wood block, and rubber pad(if used) should equal the height of the metal mounting brackets of your rear sill with its rubber pad(if used). The problem is that not all cross sills are reproduced the same correct height and so some suppliers offer blocks a different size than others. As I remember the metal mounting bracket of the rear sill is 4" tall so the height of the wood block plus that of your cross sill with its mounting brackets should also be 4".

Note that this works only if your frame is not tweaked at all as all the six mounting points should be in the same plane. You may have to adjust the wood mounting blocks or add shims to the rear sill mounting if needed so that all the mounting points support the bed equally.

Mark

Great post Mark! I never thought about the rear cross sill height. Now I need to take apart all of my truck beds and redo them.
(I said "need to". Not that "I will.")