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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 38 46 Chevy 1/2 Ton 1929 Model A Phaeton | | 46 Chevy 1/2 Ton 1929 Model A Phaeton Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 38 | "m getting ready to install a harmonic balancer on my 57 235 engiine. I don't want to pound it on so I guess I'll need to drill and tap the crank shaft to use an installation tool to install the balancer. Does anyone have any other solution to install the balancer? I just recently drilled two 5/16 holes in the block to install the water pump relocation kit (I installed my 46 water pump on the 235) Drilling the two holes was pretty intense. I didn't realize the metal was so hard. I'm thinking drilling the crank shaft is going to be more difficult than drilling the block. Any thoughts would be appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | I drilled the crank on my '60 261 (same for 235) not difficult at all, picked up a bolt & washer kit for a V8 small block. Once you have hole drilled and tapped get it started by using a piece of 4x4 wood and drive her on with your BFH, should go on pretty easy, make sure mating surfaces are without burrs etc. Can pull the balancer home with your new bolt and once it's in place coat the threads with anti seize. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,828 | Using the bolt to pull it on may strip the threads, which you don't want to do.
It would be much better to use a harmonic balancer remover/installer that's built for the task. The threads in the crank snout will be stationary when pushing it on, so will be much less likely to strip. The threads on the remover/installer are built to take the stress and there's usually a bearing involved on the turning portion to reduce friction.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | The whole idea of drilling for a bolt is to eliminate the need for pounding the HB on. Pounding on the HB is not good for the thrust bearing on the crankshaft (without backing up the rear end of the crankshaft to prevent movement).
A crankshaft installation tool is clearly needed to push the crankshaft all the way home.
Can you successfully do it other ways without damage? Sure. Every time? Probably not.
Last edited by 52Carl; 10/17/2021 11:20 PM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,917 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 2,917 | Jerry “Hot Rod Lincoln” sold me a kit that I’ve used several times. I’ve used it 3 times in the last month to install a HB on my 283 build. I understand that Tom Lowe with 12bolt.com also sells a kit. Here are the DETAILS of what I have.
Last edited by Lugnutz; 10/18/2021 12:55 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,100 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,100 | Looking at Lugnuts kit, it looks like, if you keep the sleeve that goes over the crank snout on the entire process, you can insure that no chips go into the timing cover.
Just an observation.
Last edited by Phak1; 10/18/2021 1:34 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | When drilling the crank snout, or any large hole for that matter, it is best to drill a small hole first, .187” or .25”, then drill finish size.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,608 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,608 | I really like the look of HRL's drill and tap fixture but I don't think, although I could be very wrong here, that HLR is making the drill and tap tool at the moment. So we are sort of stuck with what is available in the market, unless you have the machines and tooling to make one up.
Last edited by Dragsix; 10/18/2021 5:56 PM.
Mike
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | All good info, I did mine by eye and it's been fine for 30 years. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | It got to be too much of a hassle, sourcing some parts such as drill guide bushings, and making others. Also, even with a very detailed 2-page instruction sheet, most people didn't have the common sense to use the kit. I finally just gave up.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Thanks Jerry/Hotrod-Lincoln & Lugnutz - regarding making and showing us Jerry's beautiful tool-set and the excellent photos/installation instructions.
I'd readily buy a set to impress my friends (and, to impress future stovebolters who are working on real "stovebolt six" engines). | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 | fred c You don't have to use a sledge hammer on your HB,a 3lb. hammer with an oaken 2x2 should do it. Have a helper keep the crank pried forward as you drive it on,or wedge a block of wood back at your pressure plate. I use the 2x2 so it doesn't bruise-up your balancer. As a youth I did bruise some of those,sitting on no. 1 cylinder using a large hammer !! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 38 46 Chevy 1/2 Ton 1929 Model A Phaeton | | 46 Chevy 1/2 Ton 1929 Model A Phaeton Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 38 | Thanks for all the info. I have been out of town for a couple of days and I'll be gone again unit the middle of next week. When I get back I'm going to give it a try. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 | just very confused Nothing wrong with having the HB secured it's just work. Most of them have stayed on just press fit since 37. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 | Ed Pruss Learned to watch the depth of the hole ,don't want to drill into oil passage in the crank. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,451 | fredc not as tough as you think | | |
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