The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rearend ID

Hi,

Hoping to identify what type of rearend this is, and if it's worth swapping into my '52 3 ton GMC. Pro's so far is that it's a narrow dually with the same width frame, so I could just transfer the hangers, springs and rearend over by just drilling holes...

It's a single speed dually 10 lug off a 60's or 70's GMC value van. The gear carrier has what looks to be the # 699 cast into it. Other than that I see no markings,

Thanks!

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...umber/35774/filename/20211011_144119.jpg[/img]

After some scraping and wirewheeling I was able to also find some stamped numbers "KTBG3031"

What is the ratio? Is your ‘52 10 bolt or 6 bolt? If it matches your front axle, and everything matches up like you say, the ratio would be the determining factor, assuming it is not worn out.


Are your front hubs bolted on or pipe thread? If bolted on, you could install disc front spindles from a P30 or P3500 HD GMC front axle.

Ed

Ed,

Haven't checked the ratio yet, but I will be if it's a descent rearend. The 3 ton has the 2 speed rear and is niether the 10 or 6. My GMC has the large 5, front and rear.

I've been keeping an eye out for the P-30 spindles for many years. They're like unicorns in my area. I think the 3500hd has a not ideal steering setup. I did find one of those about 5 years back, but they wanted 1200$ for it (just the beam / spindles)

Current thoughts are, if I use the rear in question, I wound probably use the matching front from the value van (a bolt in, drw IFS)

40 Chevy,

So your rear is 5 lug also, that would work if they are on 7.25” circle, might have to find 19.5” wheels, slightly smaller than 20’s, but might look OK on your year truck.

The 3500 series axle has to have the tie rod behind the axle. This may be too much effort and $ for your truck, unless you are going to drive with loads extensively.

If you get that rear axle, unless you find 10 lug wheels, if you can find one 10 lug wheel, only need the bolt pattern in the center, you could lay it over your existing wheel, making sure the bolts line up perfectly or make a dummy hub to center the wheels, and drill new holes in your 5 lug wheels using a drill bushing, you could make or have made since the wheels are hubcentric.

Good luck,

Ed

Ed,

I think the 19.5 will work, which would get me out of multi piece rims and bias ply tires. I don't see too many huge loads in the future either. This truck is the one my Son is interested in, so we're just getting into it. In all my time with the truck, it hasn't had any brakes. (Which was fine on the farm, in the prairies but I'm in the mountains now) Grandpa told me they were there once, but even at peak, braking was poor, and getting difficult to get parts for. I have to go thru an Inspection for this one to get plates on it again, so new tires, shocks and brakes are a must. Might as well use the opportunity to get a little more modern with it. That being said I'm hoping to keep the big GMC 6 & trans.

Had another look out in the rain. Could be a GM H110? Appeared to have 4.88 gears.

40 Chevy, what engine do you have now, it could be a Chevy, which GM used in most GMC trucks sold to Canada. If a GMC engine, the SN behind the starter stamped on a m@chined surface would start with the displacement, I. e. 228xxxx. If not thus, then a Chevy engine; post numbers and or pictures here and some Chevy guys will give the info.

There is a place somewhere in BC I got some P3500HD steering arms from, they might have spindles and brakes, etc., don’t need axle. Let me know if need contact info.

Ed

Ed,

I'll try to grab #'s tomorrow, but pretty sure this one came with a 248. If you did have contact info, I would give them a call, thanks,

Matt