Removed the head on my ‘53 216 to find the “oil transfer tube” (see photo) for lack of the correct term, has been rubbing on the push rod. (Almost through). Backing out what looks to be a compression fitting, and it doesn’t want to come out of the block. What’s up? Thanks in advance.
That's the oil line to the rockers. That fitting will come out although it sounds like it may not be usable after you persuade it to leave. All of the vendors sell replacement oil lines/fittings.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
One of the headaches of the 216 "gotchas". One of the guys at chevytalk made a demo of what it looks like. From the oil pump to the rocker arm assembly, the oil line travels through the water jacket. You can purchase a repair kit from classic car and truck suppliers. https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/fbbuploads/1491615924-condensed_top_oiler.jpg
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Got the oil feed tube on it’s way and seems it’s a given that I need to remove the oil pan. But, I’ve seen some posts that say you don’t. Are they addressing another series 216 or what am I missing? Thanks
The hard part about replacing that tubing is fishing it through the block (water jacket). Taking the oil pan off will not help. A skinny wire like a guitar string can be fished through the old tubing from one side of the block to the other. Now you just need to hold onto the end of the wire as you pull the old tubing out of the block on the opposite side. Then you push the new tubing onto the wire and through block until it comes out on the other side of the block.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Just ran out to take a harder look᠁᠁᠁.yep, there it is. Somehow got it stuck in my head that the line ran into the crankcase. At first glance, didn’t see the tube behind the header. You guys have been great. Feeling a step behind is becoming a reoccurring theme with me lately. Appreciate the help. (Great tip with the wire BTW)
This is out of the 38 shop manual so there will be some differences but it'll give you an idea of what you're dealing with.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
I don’t know if you have a spare side cover, but I made a test cover I could install temporarily, to be sure I could see that the tube would not hit the pushrods when the cover was installed.
The pushrods aren't going to be affected by installing the side cover. As long as the tube is a reasonable distance from the pushrods, and far enough inboard from where the cover sits. there shouldn't be an issue.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
That tube is a tight fit between the push rod and the the side cover. You don't want the pipe to contact either one. I didn't have a spare side cover to cut to visually check it on mine (a great idea, BTW), so I bent the tube to just barely miss the push rod by about 1/8" ,making sure that the tube was relaxed and not under side tension as I connected the top end to the connection piece on the rocker arm assembly. You also want to make sure that the tube does not contact the hole in the head at the top.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The hard part about replacing that tubing is fishing it through the block (water jacket). Taking the oil pan off will not help. A skinny wire like a guitar string can be fished through the old tubing from one side of the block to the other. Now you just need to hold onto the end of the wire as you pull the old tubing out of the block on the opposite side. Then you push the new tubing onto the wire and through block until it comes out on the other side of the block.
I like this suggestion. it makes me want to do it just to see it work even though mine is fine.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
As if any of us would be able to do that, Carl . . . ever, under any conditions (except in our dreams, or, perhaps after imbibing certain illegal substances . . )?
As if any of us would be able to do that, Carl . . . ever, under any conditions (except in our dreams, or, perhaps after imbibing certain illegal substances . . )?
Actually, as far as Clapton songs go, that one isn't too hard to play after about 20 years of practice.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission