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Saved myself a few bucks for Christmas smile

Anyone know what size holes these should have? Just the bolt size? Or should the rubber sleeve poke through too?
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20211129_092339.jpg (223.86 KB, 21 downloads)
20211129_094456.jpg (220.67 KB, 18 downloads)
20211129_100859.jpg (195.24 KB, 20 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:27 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Actually Kevinski's pic says bolt hole size. Thanks!


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Headlight buckets cleaned up and ready to go in with new hardware. Next up, rust converter on the frame and then paint.
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20211129_123552.jpg (229.77 KB, 24 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:29 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Days and days of degreasing...
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20211202_124911.jpg (247.59 KB, 21 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:30 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Still prepping for paint. In the meantime, is this supposed to be bent?
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20211203_181012.jpg (288.17 KB, 19 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:31 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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If you are asking about the tie bar, no it should be straight

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Not an uncommon sight, but yes it should be straight.


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So, take it off and drop the truck on it and put it back on?


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Find a tree with a nice stout crotch and straighten it back out so you can look down it and see that it's straight.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Maybe ratchet strap ,nice work on the headlight buckets they look like the ones I have Aluminum.


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First coat of some POR15 on the frame, will do two coats and then go back and do inside and bottom two coats.
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20211204_112443.jpg (229.58 KB, 12 downloads)
20211204_121420.jpg (220.42 KB, 12 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:32 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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While painting, seen a weepy bolt in the steering box.

Is this a 'just give it a twist' and move on? Is the plug on the top to top up fluid? What fluid? Thx!
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20211205_102153.jpg (155.98 KB, 13 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 12:59 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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It looks like the side cover if it is it should be okay to turn it tite a bit if it is. The steering boxes are famous for leaking and most use cornhead grease instead of the gear lube.it would not hurt to take the plug on the top out and look inside to see if there is any fluid in there.


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So I'm running out of time before I have to get the hoist back to the owner. I haven't found a decent clutch kit yet and will likely have to get the engine in place before I do. How hard is it to put a clutch in with the engine in place? Assuming I should get the flywheel machined and installed first?


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Originally Posted by Goach2
So I'm running out of time before I have to get the hoist back to the owner. I haven't found a decent clutch kit yet and will likely have to get the engine in place before I do. How hard is it to put a clutch in with the engine in place? Assuming I should get the flywheel machined and installed first?
It really doesn't matter whether the engine is installed or not, as you have to install the flywheel and clutch AFTER the bell housing is bolted on. Inspect the flywheel to see if it needs to be machined.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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I'm wondering if it's worth trying to find this elusive 10-3/4" clutch kit. Local place will do a clutch and plate rebuild for $500, but the smaller clutch kits are way less. Would it be easier for me to just find a 6v flywheel with 6-bolts? Not like I will be hauling cattle in it...


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Have you tried Napa I found this but you would have to check as it looks like you have the heavy duty clutch.It may be worth it to go down to one of the older brake and clutch shops with your assembly to show them and see what they think
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kevinski
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Local place will rebuild it for $500. Not sure if this is the norm, but it wasn't in the original budget 😒


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If the local place will check the pressure plate for way less than that, and find it good, you could just replace the disk (NAPA also lists that).
But for less than $200 a complete kit from NAPA is the way to go.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Napa doesn't seem to ship over the border and NAPA Canada does not have this clutch.

Here's a pic of the flywheel, any issues?
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20211207_210152.jpg (354.69 KB, 25 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:01 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Napa uses the same part numbers for both Canada and USA here I he Canada sites price .I thought used the Canadian site on the first picture but oops.
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Ok was reading some more and came across a old thread and they mentioned the same Napa part number and the fellow said it does not have the 9 bolt ,so the Napa part looks like it wont fit he mentioned in another thread that chev of the fourties’ have the parts but they are not in a kit but separate and pricy
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Thanks, ya looks like I can get mine rebuilt for the chev of the 40 prices.

For the flywheel, is this considered a 'stepped' one? Any concerns of the shape it's in?


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When I did mine I was told to machine the flywheel ( I don’t think it cost much it was like machining brake drums or rotors it has a stamp on it indicating the minimum thickness I think ) I would clean it up by hand with some emery cloth and see how it looks you would be able to see better if it has hardened spots or other imperfections from the clutch spinning and heating it up if it cleans up good I personally would leave it but I am no pro .Let’s see what others think


kevinski
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I just had my flywheel for 9" clutch resurfaced. Cost me $95 US (Alaska prices). I probably could have cleaned it up with some emery cloth, but it was kind of rusty and pitted. I agree with Kevinski. Clean the flywheel and look for hardened spots, cracks or deep gouges. If you find those, get it resurfaced.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Pretty deep pit.

Looks like burn marks too. Guess it's of to the machine shop
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20211208_192303.jpg (164.34 KB, 27 downloads)
20211208_192308.jpg (363.27 KB, 26 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:02 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Starting in the DITY
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Ok, here's the game plan, open to any suggestions...

Frame is painted, firewall Penetroled:

Next get the 216 balancer painted and installed - just line and rubber mallet?

Install bell housing - antiseize on bolts?

Motor mounts installed on engine and bell.

Install engine. Flywheel at machine shop now and still looking for a clutch.

Am I missing anything?
Attachments
20211209_100905.jpg (313.89 KB, 21 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:03 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
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There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
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Originally Posted by Goach2
Next get the 216 balancer painted and installed - just line and rubber mallet?
No, use a heavy hammer and a block of wood. The rubber mallet will just bounce off.

Originally Posted by Goach2
Install bell housing - antiseize on bolts?
Not antiseize - threadlocker.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Blue threadlocker? Will this go on most bolts?


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I'm using Permatex High Strength Red Gel currently. I was using Loctite 680, but that's because is was needed for a specific application.
But the only time you really might need high strength is for critical applications (driveshaft u-bolts, etc.)
Blue is probably fine for the bell housing and most other fasteners.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Ok, I'll pick up a blue and red.


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That took a stupid amount of time... Square holes suck
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20211209_182915.jpg (192.46 KB, 26 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:04 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

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Floor done, two coats of rust converter and two coats of POR15.
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20211209_104841.jpg (356.2 KB, 21 downloads)
20211209_124148.jpg (205.55 KB, 20 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:05 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

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Just heard back from the rad shop. To recore my Harrison 3121499 - $600+! Wow, things are adding up...


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

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First piece installed on new engine, balancer from the 216, with a little permatex in the key hole.

Next I will put Blue threadlocker on the bell housing bolts and tighten to 45-55lbs...
Attachments
20211210_112136.jpg (97.9 KB, 20 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:06 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

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Blue on motor mount bolts too?


1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
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Starting in the DITY
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Looks like things are coming together,I don’t think I used much thread locker but that was years ago. .I do remember for the red that it won’t come off without heat found that out by breaking some bolts that had it on.


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I'm assuming I need this? New one just has a bolt in it...
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20211210_143832.jpg (162.23 KB, 28 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:06 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
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That's the block drain for coolant. You can either use the petcock shown in your pic or a pipe plug (do NOT use a bolt, as it won't seal well in the tapered threads in the block and may damage them.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Today's the day! Unwrapped for the first time and going in. Any suggestions?
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20211211_100058.jpg (210.53 KB, 24 downloads)
20211211_100050.jpg (248.34 KB, 26 downloads)
20211211_100105.jpg (236.15 KB, 24 downloads)
20211211_100115.jpg (220.9 KB, 25 downloads)

Last edited by Phak1; 08/20/2024 1:07 PM. Reason: Removed [img] links

1948 Chevy Thriftmaster 3/4-Ton
Poncho "farming" in Ontario
Starting in the DITY
Continuing in the Project Journals
More images

There are only 10 types of people in this world, those who can read binary and those who can't.
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