Not an uncommon sight, but yes it should be straight.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Find a tree with a nice stout crotch and straighten it back out so you can look down it and see that it's straight.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
It looks like the side cover if it is it should be okay to turn it tite a bit if it is. The steering boxes are famous for leaking and most use cornhead grease instead of the gear lube.it would not hurt to take the plug on the top out and look inside to see if there is any fluid in there.
So I'm running out of time before I have to get the hoist back to the owner. I haven't found a decent clutch kit yet and will likely have to get the engine in place before I do. How hard is it to put a clutch in with the engine in place? Assuming I should get the flywheel machined and installed first?
So I'm running out of time before I have to get the hoist back to the owner. I haven't found a decent clutch kit yet and will likely have to get the engine in place before I do. How hard is it to put a clutch in with the engine in place? Assuming I should get the flywheel machined and installed first?
It really doesn't matter whether the engine is installed or not, as you have to install the flywheel and clutch AFTER the bell housing is bolted on. Inspect the flywheel to see if it needs to be machined.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I'm wondering if it's worth trying to find this elusive 10-3/4" clutch kit. Local place will do a clutch and plate rebuild for $500, but the smaller clutch kits are way less. Would it be easier for me to just find a 6v flywheel with 6-bolts? Not like I will be hauling cattle in it...
Have you tried Napa I found this but you would have to check as it looks like you have the heavy duty clutch.It may be worth it to go down to one of the older brake and clutch shops with your assembly to show them and see what they think
If the local place will check the pressure plate for way less than that, and find it good, you could just replace the disk (NAPA also lists that). But for less than $200 a complete kit from NAPA is the way to go.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Ok was reading some more and came across a old thread and they mentioned the same Napa part number and the fellow said it does not have the 9 bolt ,so the Napa part looks like it wont fit he mentioned in another thread that chev of the fourties’ have the parts but they are not in a kit but separate and pricy
When I did mine I was told to machine the flywheel ( I don’t think it cost much it was like machining brake drums or rotors it has a stamp on it indicating the minimum thickness I think ) I would clean it up by hand with some emery cloth and see how it looks you would be able to see better if it has hardened spots or other imperfections from the clutch spinning and heating it up if it cleans up good I personally would leave it but I am no pro .Let’s see what others think
I just had my flywheel for 9" clutch resurfaced. Cost me $95 US (Alaska prices). I probably could have cleaned it up with some emery cloth, but it was kind of rusty and pitted. I agree with Kevinski. Clean the flywheel and look for hardened spots, cracks or deep gouges. If you find those, get it resurfaced.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Next get the 216 balancer painted and installed - just line and rubber mallet?
No, use a heavy hammer and a block of wood. The rubber mallet will just bounce off.
Originally Posted by Goach2
Install bell housing - antiseize on bolts?
Not antiseize - threadlocker.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I'm using Permatex High Strength Red Gel currently. I was using Loctite 680, but that's because is was needed for a specific application. But the only time you really might need high strength is for critical applications (driveshaft u-bolts, etc.) Blue is probably fine for the bell housing and most other fasteners.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Looks like things are coming together,I don’t think I used much thread locker but that was years ago. .I do remember for the red that it won’t come off without heat found that out by breaking some bolts that had it on.
That's the block drain for coolant. You can either use the petcock shown in your pic or a pipe plug (do NOT use a bolt, as it won't seal well in the tapered threads in the block and may damage them.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.