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Left/right is always referenced while sitting behind the steering wheel.

FAM Section 11, Sheet 12.00 shows the dimension to the forward bolt head, but says the 27.25 dimension is for the RH (passenger unless you're in England) side and the LH side dimension is 27.48 inches.

So with hood closed, I have a good 1/2" gap between the hood and the cowl, at the top. I think I will put the grill in place, remove the hood latch plate and do the alignment procedure in the tech tips. It's a little confusing about which hinge bolts it's referring to, but I'll see what I can do to follow along.

This truck lost it's mount under the rad years ago and I had to repair a bunch of stress cracks in the fenders. Knowing that there is likely to be some warpage, should I try for a 1/4" gap? Or go for 1/8" and see if I can get the fenders to align to that?

Hood alignment is giving me ulcers I think this missing rivet may be why...

I think I got the best alignment I'm going to get out of it:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1440755.html#Post1440755

Got the trans in alone, this wasn't too bad to align it:

Couple things to note for anyone doing it in the future:
- front bearing, I had to use the outside clip from the original, as the replacement was slightly thicker and would not let the front cover piece to sit against the body.
- for the trans alignment pins, the earlier cases have a piece in the casting that don't allow a long pin to be used. I ended up only using a pin on the drivers side to get it in

Have the doors off and going to clean up the jambs and get all the rubber seals back on. Do I pull the hinges off and clean them up? Or is that going to lead to a world of pain?

You a
already have the door off pins and bushings are cheap if they are loose or seized up you can also get the cover plate for a good price if they are rusty or bent up badly.

I would also put some new springs if you decide to do the hinges.

Maybe the kids will stop falling out now...

Yea that is not good the hinges would be worn for that to happen

Still working away, got new seal in side cowl vent:

Striped and painted the door jambs with new bumper rubbers:

And still working on the hinges:

Next I'll be stripping the interior of the doors down and painting them. Still waiting on the rad....

Still waiting on some stuff, so I decided to take care of my leaky master cylinder. I ordered the MK33 lot from Rockauto, and the rubber cover is a different style:

Is it going to be a problem? It's for a 3600...

This ok?

Well, I rebuilt the master, honed it out as well as it will go, but a few small pits are still causing it to leak. I want to upgrade the brakes, so I will live with it for now (as I have the last 5 years) and upgrade later.

Rad is ready and so is the fuel tank (which was leaking and I dropped it and had it repaired right)

Question about break-in. I have a new valve cover gasket, but no sealant on it. I want to do the 20min @ 2000rpm break-in. I am assuming I will have to do some valve adjustments and don't want to waste a gasket. Can I leave it unglued for break-in and then run some sealant on the block side when it's done? Or will it make a big mess on my newly painted engine?

No problem with my gasket it is a cork one I did not put any sealant on it and have had it on and off a few times.

Finally, dropped it off in Dec and just picked it up:

Just have to install it and the fuel tank as well. I'm hopeful this weekend will be initial break-in. Any tips?

Tank in as well as Rad and brakes bled. Pretty much ready for break-in if there's any tips out there. So far I have 2k rpm for 20 min with my zinc additive, then drive 500miles and redo timing, adjust valves and torque head bolts again.

Anything else?

So this weekend I ended up doing the break-in run, 20 mins at 2k RPM. Did some timing adjustments and carb/idle as well before. The next day I go to start it and it only starts full choke and full throttle and runs like some cylinders aren't firing.

I'm assuming I will have to redo the timing again, but is this normal? Or am I missing something?

Have to get the gremlins out .Looks like you will have to check everything over ,hopefully it is something simple .keep us updated.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1452198/9.html

Some recent valve/timing discussion that has taken place. I should have my door back tomorrow, so excited that a test drive will be coming soon. I have also found some oil dripping from the clutch/flywheel cover. Does this sound like the shop might not have got the rear main seal in correctly?

So I've been doing some local running around with the truck, since I got it all back together. Timing seems to be perfect and I think I have the carb set up pretty well. I usually start with about a half choke and can open it right up once I get down the road. Overall, very happy with how the job went and the way it performs. I can see why others opt for a transmission upgrade, but the 4-speed still makes it feel like 1948 I've had it up to 55mph (fastest it's ever gone I'm sure) and I can now safely say there's no reason to do it again! I now feel the need for seatbelts and an upgrade from the Huck brakes in the future. One concern I do have are leaks. There is some oil coming from the rear of the torque tube:

I replaced the rubber bushing in this end, but I didn't mess with the tube innards. I know this gets oil from the trans, should I be concerned about this and do I need to do anything to make it stop?

There is also oil dripping from the flywheel cover and I hope it's just the trans weeping and not the rear main seal!