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#1422570 09/01/2021 1:30 PM
Joined: Dec 2014
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I was wondering what primer to use after sandblasting that could go direct to bare metal and be a high build primer? There’s a DuPont paint store near by.Also wondering do I need a special gun or will my regular primer gun work. Thanks for any help

Last edited by 29tons; 09/01/2021 1:33 PM.
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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What I've used is Martin Senour (NAPA) Professional Commercial Coatings line PIC302. It's an epoxy primer that works on bare metal. Costs a touch over $100/gal with hardener. If you have a NAPA store that carries their paint line, they should fix you up.
I recently asked at the place that handles PPG products, looking for a black primer, and they said ~$100 a QUART or $400/gal. I passed on that. I didn't need black primer that badly.
You don't need a special gun, but I use a 3M Accuspray gun with 1.4 tip on it. That gun has an assortment of tip sizes that could be used.
[on edit] It was PPG not DuPont.

Last edited by klhansen; 09/01/2021 5:36 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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'Bolter
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I don’t believe that sand blasting will necessarily give you the best surface to apply your primer to. It certainly does remove paint and surface rust (mostly) but if you read the specifications provided by say PPG, they require a scratched surface usually caused by 80 grit sandpaper. Here are some pictures of sandblasted and scratched metal. You can see that the sandblasted surface leaves a “dented, concave” surface while a scratched surface leaves “edges” that the primer hangs on to. After you sandblast, sand the surface with 80 grit and you will get a better surface for the primer to adhere to.

As to the primer spray gun, you can buy a cheap Harbor Freight Purple gun on sale for about $10. Unfortunately, the tip is set for about 1.4. Primer requires a larger tip. The control rod in the gun is tapered so you can simply drill out the hole to the size you need and it will work fine. At $10, it’s almost a throwaway. I have been using this for years with good results.
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I would disagree with that. Use an 80 grit red garnet for a blasting medium and you'll end up with a better grip surface than sanding.

Best thing to do is buy your paint product, then see what that manufacturer recommends as far as surface prep, gun tips, pressures, etc. Or, don't buy the product but go to the paint manufacturers web site to gather all this info before you begin.

I would recommend this product. Tamco Paint It lays on nice, is high build, and sands nicer than anything I have come across yet. Like butter.

Of course, if your going to leave your parts in primer for any amount of time, it would be better to epoxy prime it first, then work your fillers and high builds to prevent your rust from coming back.

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'Bolter
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Sandblasting provides an excellent surface for priming. You will want to use an epoxy primer over bare metal. I also use a Harbor Freight gun for all my priming. Epoxy Primer doesn't have UV protection so it will need to be painted. I used Advantage brand Hot Rod Black for my chassis, it has a nice semi-gloss sheen to it.


'66 C60 body, '97 C6500 chassis, '07 LBZ Duramax with Allison 1000
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